8n side distributor with electronic ignition

[fried1765]

if its running great.... all the more reason to switch to electronics.
It will stay running 110% as good for a long time. No more adjusting points. When points go out of adjustment it also changes timing. Usually 1 degree of point change = 2 degrees timing offset.
Best ever point conversion is Pertronix. Direct fit for your distributor. You can still use the stock coil
Also recommend opening the plug gap. If you"re at .025 open to .030
Its as simple as installing new points.
Any confusion call Pertronix tech support

Good system.....I did the Pertronix conversion years ago.

 

[Hammbone]

I would have left my old Ford 6V but the charging system was toast when I got it and I needed to be able to use 12V accessories, sprayer and winch, so the conversion was necessary.

^This exactly. The charging system has also given me trouble since I bought it. I have rebuilt the generator, new wire harness, new voltage regulator and battery. I finally was able to get it to generate voltage, but then it was over charging and bubbling the battery acid out of the battery. It was either all or nothing, so when it happened while in the field I disconnected it and haven't been back to look at it since. I just top off the battery with a charger a couple times a year and with only the ignition drawing power I'm good for many months (unless I use lights:laughing maybe I will dive into it one more time before going the upgrade route, but having 12v available for auxillary use would be really handy.

 

[RickB]

I have had a lot of customers complain about having to replace a 40-60 year old wiring harness. I have yet to hear an electrical system complaint from someone with a 40-60 year old tractor with a new harness.

New wiring can solve problems you do not know you have.

 

[John0829]

I was talking to a guy about 2 months ago who was replacing the Pertronix unit once sometimes twice a year. He said everything was new, coil, wiring, plugs, you name it but the units still were failing. I could have bought a truck load of points for what he has spent on the EI units.

I agree old wiring is a source of a lot of problems but I never understood buying the new harness, these old machines only have 2 circuits: 1. ignition, 2. charging, well 3. if you have lights. You can make up a harness for so little time or money plus it gives you a better understanding of what goes were and how to fix if something were to go wrong.

 

[RickB]

I was talking to a guy about 2 months ago who was replacing the Pertronix unit once sometimes twice a year. He said everything was new, coil, wiring, plugs, you name it but the units still were failing. I could have bought a truck load of points for what he has spent on the EI units.

A new coil doesn’t mean it is the right coil. That said, Pertronix has been reported to have more problems in the recent past than in earlier years. Given the almost universally poor quality of available new points and condensers I won’t argue the point either way.

 

[kf4uda]

I gave in over 4 years back and bought the PerTronix ignition for my 861. I have been very happy with that purchase ever since. The tractor starts “on time every time” and has been trouble free.

I can work on a points system but don’t particularly care to ( especially when I am wanting to use the tractor).

Just my 2 cents.

 

[airbiscuit]

^This exactly. The charging system has also given me trouble since I bought it. I have rebuilt the generator, new wire harness, new voltage regulator and battery. I finally was able to get it to generate voltage, but then it was over charging and bubbling the battery acid out of the battery. It was either all or nothing, so when it happened while in the field I disconnected it and haven't been back to look at it since. I just top off the battery with a charger a couple times a year and with only the ignition drawing power I'm good for many months (unless I use lights:laughing maybe I will dive into it one more time before going the upgrade route, but having 12v available for auxillary use would be really handy.

Might it be worth trying a different regulator?

 

[Hammbone]

Airbicuit, I think that's probably next on the list now that I've found such an improvement in the tractor overall I might as well give it one more shot. Maybe I got a doa regulator, but if another new regulator doesn't do it I'll be pretty well stumped.

 

[airbiscuit]

Don't know if there is anything to this, but ...

Polarizing a generator, at the regulator terminals, involves a simple procedure that ensures the generator and regulator read the same electrical polarity signal. In simple terms, the generator needs to remember how it was wired after it has been disconnected or replaced. If the regulator was recently replaced, the system still has to be polarized, since a disconnection has separated the system components. Failing to polarize can trip a generator or charging light in the system, and burn out the wiring circuit. Any repair person who has changed or disconnected the wires to the regulator, generator or alternator, needs to take a moment and polarize system.

Step 1

Make sure your tractor sits in park or neutral, with the emergency brake fully applied. Remove the ignition key. Make sure your battery has a full charge. Place the leads of a multimeter on the battery, hooking the positive, red lead of the meter to the positive terminal on the battery. Connect the negative, black lead of the meter to the negative terminal on the battery.

Step 2

Open the hood cowl. Locate your regulator, by referring to your owner's engine manual. It will look like a small black box connected to the firewall or engine-side fender well. The regulator will have letters stamped on it, next to three wire locations. Note the "Arm", "Bat" and "Fld" wire designations, which stand for armature, battery and field. The wires lead to the generator, which should be similarly marked.

Step 3

Read your repair manual to determine if you have an older 6-volt system. The markings on the regulator might read "Bat", "Fld" and "Gen." One other configuration will be "Bat", "Fld" and "Arm." In this case, you will use a screwdriver to disconnect the wire from the battery wire on the regulator, and the generator or armature wire on the regulator.

Momentarily touch the battery wire with the generator wire, or the armature wire, depending upon the letter designation. Look for the blue electrical arc. Refasten both wires to the regulator with the screwdriver.

 

[John0829]

Don't know if there is anything to this, but ...

Polarizing a generator, at the regulator terminals, involves a simple procedure that ensures the generator and regulator read the same electrical polarity signal. In simple terms, the generator needs to remember how it was wired after it has been disconnected or replaced. If the regulator was recently replaced, the system still has to be polarized, since a disconnection has separated the system components. Failing to polarize can trip a generator or charging light in the system, and burn out the wiring circuit. Any repair person who has changed or disconnected the wires to the regulator, generator or alternator, needs to take a moment and polarize system.

Step 1

Make sure your tractor sits in park or neutral, with the emergency brake fully applied. Remove the ignition key. Make sure your battery has a full charge. Place the leads of a multimeter on the battery, hooking the positive, red lead of the meter to the positive terminal on the battery. Connect the negative, black lead of the meter to the negative terminal on the battery.

Step 2

Open the hood cowl. Locate your regulator, by referring to your owner's engine manual. It will look like a small black box connected to the firewall or engine-side fender well. The regulator will have letters stamped on it, next to three wire locations. Note the "Arm", "Bat" and "Fld" wire designations, which stand for armature, battery and field. The wires lead to the generator, which should be similarly marked.

Step 3

Read your repair manual to determine if you have an older 6-volt system. The markings on the regulator might read "Bat", "Fld" and "Gen." One other configuration will be "Bat", "Fld" and "Arm." In this case, you will use a screwdriver to disconnect the wire from the battery wire on the regulator, and the generator or armature wire on the regulator.

Momentarily touch the battery wire with the generator wire, or the armature wire, depending upon the letter designation. Look for the blue electrical arc. Refasten both wires to the regulator with the screwdriver.

On the old N series tractors you need to know whether you have an "A circuit" or "B circuit" charging system. There is a difference in how you polarize them. Most 8N tractors used "A circuit" and to polarize it you touch your wire from the "Field" or "F" terminal of the regulator to ground.