Adjusting the Landrake

   / Adjusting the Landrake
  • Thread Starter
#11  
Is it possible to just skim the surface?

Take the gauge wheels off, then turn the Landscape Rake around backwards. It won't dig in with the tine tips oriented to the rear.
Thanks, I'll try that.
 
   / Adjusting the Landrake #12  
I’ve had very good success using a chain instead of a solid top link. It helps prevents digging in when the tractor goes through depressions.

With a solid top link I’ve found every little dip gets amplified with every pass.
 
   / Adjusting the Landrake #13  
Might just be me...running my heavy duty 8' Land Pride rake (built before Kubota bought them) backwards seems to stress the tines and it starts doing some cringe-worthy jumping around.

The curved tine design works perfectly when pulling it forward.

Above, Mr. Vigo and Mr. Old and Tired both mentioned shortening the top link angle to make it work less aggressive.

The top link length is an important adjustment to focus on.

Make it long to aggressively angle the rake tines to dig and pull up rocks and roots.

For finish work, try making it short (and angle the rake about 30 degrees) while maintaining a small amount of soil or gravel in front of the tines to fill low spots as you move forward and see if it works out for you.

You may also find maintaining a slight wind-row as you rake helps when doing final smooth finish work.

One last point is to be aware of the benefit of adjusting the 3PH sidelink to maintain your desired slope from right to left across the horizontal axis, such as when adding crown to a driveway. Adjust the right side lower than the left and you move soil from right to the left, creating slope.

The left to right slope angle can also change as you raise and lower the 3PH depending on how the rake is set up, so watch for this.

And most of all, enjoy the challenge!

It's a hugely rewarding activity once you figure it out, and you are looking back across a smooth patch of ground that you crafted.

...//TJ
 
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   / Adjusting the Landrake
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Thanks to everybody for all the good suggestions. I'm going to try skimming the surface for practice. If I dig it up a little it'll be ok. I'm thinking of just redoing the whole thing in the spring any way. I'll try digging deeper, pull out some big rocks, then go shallower and so on to get most of the rocks out. Then reseed and straw the whole thing. I'm going to need a swale cut anyway. The contractor left a low spot in the middle of the yard that collects water. I'm going to try and cut a swale in to give that water somewhere to go. I'm sure I'll need more help in the spring :)
 
   / Adjusting the Landrake #15  
If you try the suggestions above and still dont get the results you want try removing every other tooth.

Mine tended to be more like a dirt plow with every tine in. I removed every other one and man this thing takes a whole lot better. It actualy allows the fines to filter through the teeth now. I re did part of my lawn last spring useing this method and am very happy. I dont think il put the tines back in ever.
 
 

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