Advice on 5000 sq ft hobby bldg

[skipperbrown]

We recently bought some property in Birchwood Tennessee (near Chattanooga) where we will build our retirement home and hobby building. It will be a while before we start the home but I have a builder who is interested in starting the hobby building in about 2 months. Here is what we want: A 50x100x16 metal building shell with rafter type roof on 4x12 pitch and climate controlled with 2' overhangs. 50x60ish will be my wife's dog training area and the other 50x40ish will be home to our rv/rv stuff (about 1000 sf) and my hobby area (about 1000 sq ft). A narrow 50' side of the building will face the road to reduce the profile and will have a 10' minimum shed roof and 10' wide porch. The house will be about 75 to 100' from the house. On the house side, we want a 50' long porch 10' min height that will meet the other porch at the corner. A 36" personnel door will be at the far end of this porch and then another personnel door will be under the 50' side nearest the house. There will be 4' high wainscoting in a contrasting color around the building and 2 copulas. If you search google for allan's garage morton buildings, this is very similar to what we want (just a little bigger, another door and wrap porch).

On the none house side starting at the far end will be a 5' space followed by 14x14 door This will house the rv. Then a 5' space and a 12x12 door for tractors/utv. Then another 5' space and a 10x10 door for moving dog equipment in/out. So now I'm at the 51' foot mark. The remaining 49 feet will house 2, 5x6 windows. I'm putting all the big doors on the non-house side, well, because they are ugly. On the house side with the 50' porch, there will be one personnel door under the porch at about the '45 to 48' mark. We are looking at 9 5x6 windows to give a balanced look to this 100' length. The side facing the road will have 2 5x6 windows and a personnel door on the end closest to the house as well as being under porch.

My builder wants to construct the building using US Steel 29 gauge steel. He buys the steel painted and precut in sheets, takes it to his shop and then bends it in his shop with a 5 bend pattern. He will put posts 6' deep and laminated rafters on about 9 1/2' centers. He buys the rafters from a truss company. There will be about 6620 sq ft under roof. If I have the foundation poured before he builds, he cuts 6' off the posts and the cost is the same (saves on timber and has additional cost for concrete anchors). His cost with all doors being insulated and each window at $130 installed is $90,000 or about $13.60 a sq ft. However, it only includes r10 batting on the ceiling. He said it would be cheaper to have the foundation poured after he was done. US Steel guarantees the paint coating for 40 years. I'll be dead in no more than 25.

I will be responsible for additional roof/ceiling insulation and wall insulation, hvac, electrical, and, of course, the $$$ concrete.

My initial concerns are whether a foundation should be poured first, insulation type, site prep, and metal gauge. Regarding being climate controlled, I need it to be no warmer than 55 in the winter and in the summer 76 will be cool enough. I don't want to go bankrupt paying utilities. My wife doesn't work her dogs everyday, but a huge problem in dog training is finding a large facility that is comfortable to use in the summer/winter. I will probably be asked to move the rv and a bunch of my stuff out should my wife need the additional space for a seminar.

Gosh, if you made it this far, thank you for your persistence and thanks for any suggestions.

 

[Cord]

Being this is new construction and conditioned, there is a chance the local community will make you comply with code and perform a ResCheck calculation. Some communities will not permit you to construct a secondary structure until the primary resident is started. Both are items to check into.

For what you'd want, I'd suggest going with a thickened edge slab and stick framing the walls. Sounds like you really want more than what a pole building can deliver.

 

[skipperbrown]

"For what you'd want, I'd suggest going with a thickened edge slab and stick framing the walls. Sounds like you really want more than what a pole building can deliver."

Thanks for your comment. Zoning is not an issue. What is your thinking that the pole barn can't deliver?

 

[AllByteNoBark]

Not sure what Cord's thoughts were but from my experience a pole barn is a lot harder to insulate unless your using spray foam. Also more work if finishing the inside. On our shop we had it framed with steel studs in the areas we wanted finished and insulated. The remainder is framed using the conventional beam/column/purlin system. Worked well for us.

 

[countrybumpkin]

I would look into a red iron building if I were going that size and forgo the post frame.

 

[747driver]

I live about 2 hrs north of Chattanooga. Morton put up a 30x50x16 pole barn 1.5 yrs ago for $38,000 with no concrete floor. Concrete floor and electrical made it $42,000 total. Not sure what you mean by rafter type roof. I would use 50' trusses on 8' centers. I had the perma column system used for post, so no wood is in the ground. Metal siding and roofing was 19 gauge steel. Go to Youtube and look at RR Buildings. This company ( located in Illinois ) really builds great pole barn buildings. You can really get an idea of how they build and finish the interior. Allans garage is a something many of us wish we had !!

 

[3Ts]

You will want the concrete poured before the doors (overhead and walk) are put in so that the thresholds are at the correct level. With this size of building, I'd go with red iron and since you're in the hurricane zone, be sure it meets the wind resistance codes.

 

[ovrszd]

Opinions are rampant here on TBN. Literally hundreds of members that have similar buildings in their backyard. When reading opinions you should always confirm location and specific use. Pay little attention to cost unless it's reinforced with miniscule details down to brand and thermal effectiveness of windows/doors.

For example, I'm in a 1,872 sqft building for $42.75 per sq ft. People will say they can build one cheaper than that. I say yes, but you can't build this building cheaper than that.

There are some very knowledgeable guys on here that can offer opinions about construction type. Listen closely to them. If you can sort them out from all the "noise".

Look forward to following your build when you get started. Please do a thread with pics. Thanks.

 

[AllByteNoBark]

ovrszd is correct. A little more detail on ours, which came in a little over $38 per sq ft. It is all galvanized vs red iron due to where we are. Two inches of insulation on the shop area with spray foam for office areas. Contractor built the building but I did all the inside finishing, electrical, etc. Our foundation is a poured pier and beam slab due to soil movement which added to the cost. Lean to area with concrete ran $11 per sq ft. Not being from this area originally I had to rely on my contractor, who has a good reputation, for best practices.

 

[fried1765]

We recently bought some property in Birchwood Tennessee (near Chattanooga) where we will build our retirement home and hobby building. It will be a while before we start the home but I have a builder who is interested in starting the hobby building in about 2 months. Here is what we want: A 50x100x16 metal building shell with rafter type roof on 4x12 pitch and climate controlled with 2' overhangs. 50x60ish will be my wife's dog training area and the other 50x40ish will be home to our rv/rv stuff (about 1000 sf) and my hobby area (about 1000 sq ft). A narrow 50' side of the building will face the road to reduce the profile and will have a 10' minimum shed roof and 10' wide porch. The house will be about 75 to 100' from the house. On the house side, we want a 50' long porch 10' min height that will meet the other porch at the corner. A 36" personnel door will be at the far end of this porch and then another personnel door will be under the 50' side nearest the house. There will be 4' high wainscoting in a contrasting color around the building and 2 copulas. If you search google for allan's garage morton buildings, this is very similar to what we want (just a little bigger, another door and wrap porch).

On the none house side starting at the far end will be a 5' space followed by 14x14 door This will house the rv. Then a 5' space and a 12x12 door for tractors/utv. Then another 5' space and a 10x10 door for moving dog equipment in/out. So now I'm at the 51' foot mark. The remaining 49 feet will house 2, 5x6 windows. I'm putting all the big doors on the non-house side, well, because they are ugly. On the house side with the 50' porch, there will be one personnel door under the porch at about the '45 to 48' mark. We are looking at 9 5x6 windows to give a balanced look to this 100' length. The side facing the road will have 2 5x6 windows and a personnel door on the end closest to the house as well as being under porch.

My builder wants to construct the building using US Steel 29 gauge steel. He buys the steel painted and precut in sheets, takes it to his shop and then bends it in his shop with a 5 bend pattern. He will put posts 6' deep and laminated rafters on about 9 1/2' centers. He buys the rafters from a truss company. There will be about 6620 sq ft under roof. If I have the foundation poured before he builds, he cuts 6' off the posts and the cost is the same (saves on timber and has additional cost for concrete anchors). His cost with all doors being insulated and each window at $130 installed is $90,000 or about $13.60 a sq ft. However, it only includes r10 batting on the ceiling. He said it would be cheaper to have the foundation poured after he was done. US Steel guarantees the paint coating for 40 years. I'll be dead in no more than 25.

I will be responsible for additional roof/ceiling insulation and wall insulation, hvac, electrical, and, of course, the $$$ concrete.

My initial concerns are whether a foundation should be poured first, insulation type, site prep, and metal gauge. Regarding being climate controlled, I need it to be no warmer than 55 in the winter and in the summer 76 will be cool enough. I don't want to go bankrupt paying utilities. My wife doesn't work her dogs everyday, but a huge problem in dog training is finding a large facility that is comfortable to use in the summer/winter. I will probably be asked to move the rv and a bunch of my stuff out should my wife need the additional space for a seminar.

Gosh, if you made it this far, thank you for your persistence and thanks for any suggestions.

"skipperbrown" ...former CO of ?

Before you sign up with your local guy, you really should check with Morton Buildings (check their website).
Morton is a major player in the nationwide market for these buildings, and can build any custom design that you might choose.
They use much heavier gauge steel than you are considering. They are the Mercedes of these type buildings.
They will likely be a bit more expensive (major difference in steel quality is only one part of that).

I have had a Morton building (36 x 48) in place, in a saltwater environment, hurricane zone, for 36 years.
At 36 years my building is in excellent condition.
The nearest Morton office to you is in Tallahassee, and I am certain there are MANY Morton buildings in your area, since there are over 500,000 in the USA.

Batt 1 NAS Pensacola 1962
Former 1315, but left in '67 for an airline.