Another 8N newbie question (s) thread!

[Southernspeed]

Sorry guys and gals but I just bought an 8N so now I have lots of dumb questions!
Firstly, what year is it? ( photos below) Number on block looks like 8N 10446 which would make early? but lots of visual clues suggest it’s later ( to me anyway) Fittings for proof meter, steering box, side mount distributor etc.
any guesses appreciated!
Also, what is the split pin hanging out of the trans sump for?
And a recommendation for a good operators manual? I have a very old I&T shop manual but not a basic operators manual. Thanks!

 

[Paystar]

I haven't worked on an 8N so can't answer any of your questions, but as far as manuals check E-Bay. I just got a really nice complete set for my 3000 all in nice Ford binders.
I have also got reprints for my Allis Chalmers from Steiners and Yesterday's Tractor.

And one other place to check.....there is a guy on that Facebook Southern Ontario Antique Equipment Buy Sell Trade that has hundreds of manuals for sale for every tractor there is.
They are always listed on there, and with your stronger American dollar will be cheap for you to buy.

 

[EdGooding]

I suspect there is another digit between the N and the 1. You have a later steering box that came out at serial number 216989. The 3-hole rocker came out at serial number 215759. The Proofmeter (tach and hourmeter) was added to the instrument panel at serial number 290271.

The cotter pin is supposed to be there - keeps the weep hole open in case you have a leaking seal so the fluid doesn't back up and slick your clutch.

You can download a free '48 owner's manual and other 8N documents here: NTC Manual Library

 

[Southernspeed]

I suspect there is another digit between the N and the 1. You have a later steering box that came out at serial number 216989. The 3-hole rocker came out at serial number 215759. The Proofmeter (tach and hourmeter) was added to the instrument panel at serial number 290271.

The cotter pin is supposed to be there - keeps the weep hole open in case you have a leaking seal so the fluid doesn't back up and slick your clutch.

You can download a free '48 owner's manual and other 8N documents here: NTC Manual Library

That’s great info, thanks.
There is oil dripping from that weep hole and the clutch ‘sticks’ a bit. When you depress the clutch pedal you have to wait a few seconds or more for it to free off. Doesn’t seem to slip though.
On going project!

 

[EdGooding]

When you park her, wedge the clutch pedal down to keep it from freezing to the flywheel. I use a piece of 1x1 but there are many ways to skin that cat.

 

[Southernspeed]

When you park her, wedge the clutch pedal down to keep it from freezing to the flywheel. I use a piece of 1x1 but there are many ways to skin that cat.

Apparently it happens while you're driving sometimes too and needs a stomp on the brake to jerk it free ..... should be interesting! Previous owner had it for 30+ years and just got used to it I guess.

 

[EdGooding]

Apparently it happens while you're driving sometimes too and needs a stomp on the brake to jerk it free ..... should be interesting! Previous owner had it for 30+ years and just got used to it I guess.

Sounds like a split and clutch replacement is in your future. A band-aid fix might be removing your starter (careful because the two bolts that mount it to the flange also hold it together so have a couple of 5/16" nuts ready to screw on them as you remove the starter) and spray a can of brake cleaner on the flywheel surface.

 

[John0829]

As a temporary fix when you first start out with the tractor you can slip the clutch to clean up any rust that may be there but ultimately a split and replace is the best thing to do.

 

[EdGooding]

I forgot to mention previously that you can determine when your engine was manufactured by the casting date here:

 

[EdGooding]

There are other locations where you can check for casting dates. If all are fairly close, then you are lucky to have a pretty original 8N. Crawl underneath with a rag and check under your hydraulic pump for a non-coded date:

The rear axle housing also should have one: