Anybody know about International Pay Loaders?

  
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MinnesotaEric

MinnesotaEric

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Yesterday I set the governor air pressure to the top of the "in the green" on the dash air brake pressure gauge, which I presume the green range is from 90 to 120 PSI.

I also had a mini heart attack yesterday after setting the governor pressure when I tried to move the machine and it wouldn't budge forward or backward. Fearing the F700 transmission had taken a siesta while I wasn't looking, I checked that the parking brake was off and since I have not set up brake hydraulic reservoir (yet), I checked both master cylinders to confirm they were not stacking brake fluid and passively applying the brakes. Then I remembered the lefthand brake pedal knocks the transmission out of gear, but that seemed unlikely because the machine was "trying to move" but couldn't. Finally, I checked the transmission fluid level, and long story short given that nothing appears to be leaking, I don't know how the machine ever moved in the first place in the last video because I was three gallons of Hy-Tran low. Took me a couple of hours to grease everything up today with my Lock-n-Lube G-gun.

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MinnesotaEric

MinnesotaEric

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Pay Loader Part 12: I adjusted the governor pressure which I presume had been previously set so high so as to try and overcome the series of open air brake leaks which not the least of was through an air diagram, through a hydraulic master cylinder and than back through the master cylinder reservoir (how on earth? I know). After that I got back to the serious matter that would have bugged me all winter if I didn't fix it.

 
  
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MinnesotaEric

MinnesotaEric

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We had an H90C back in the '80s. Lots of power with the DVT-573, but the brakes were an ongoing PITA on it too.

With the brakes working, next year (God willing I should live so long and have free time), I'll turn my attention to making the lights all work, getting the radiator air shutter hooked back into the system and working, get a new either injection system installed and tied into the right button on the dash, get the brake reservoir system installed and plumbed with new break lines, make the turn signals work and install new lights everywhere. Put a switch on the backup alarm and install a new backup alarm (you would not believe the cost of an OEM backup alarm), try to find three correct replacement battery cover holddowns, and since I think the curl ram has bypass issues (it curls up under the weight of the loader), figure out how to remove it and get it up to STEIGER MANUFACTURING since they can make any part they need to rebuild the ram, and finally use my tractor to "adjust" a slightly out of align right-side door, and try to bend both laddars back to straight.

And of course, more hot-steam cleaning of everything. Might take more than a year. Oh, and more fluid changes to bring all maintenance up to current.
 

Xfaxman

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Well at least the air horn works Laughing.JPG.

And the loader is useable.
 
  
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MinnesotaEric

MinnesotaEric

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Well at least the air horn works View attachment 674511.

And the loader is useable.

It is useable. Except for the lights, most of the gages, the reverse beeper, the radiator shutter for cold weather, the ether injector for starting in cold weather, new o-rings on all the loader joints, and because I cannot resist, I bought my project a project! Heh.

 
  
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MinnesotaEric

MinnesotaEric

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Question for people used to operating these bigger loaders: When my bucket is curled down and I lower the loader while the engine is idling, the bucket curls up under the weight of the loader. However, when I throttle up, I can hold the weight of the entire loader up off of the ground with the bucket curled down. I'm wondering if I have some cylinder leakage or if this is normal. I don't have a good way to cap the curl cylinder extend port to test if there is a leak past the piston so I'm asking folks with more experience than I about this.
 
  
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MinnesotaEric

MinnesotaEric

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I popped a front tire and ended up replacing the front tires with new tires. I was going to replace the rears as well, but my mobile tire guy with the world's biggest tire manipulator explained that he didn't think he could get the tires off of my rear after spending six hours working on the front two tires because of corrosion (and watching, the guy worked for it too, so no joke PITA). As such, for me to get the rear tires replaced, I need to pop the rear wheels off and bring them into my tire guy's shop and his giant tire machine. Anyway, I measured as best as I could the diameter of the new tires at 16'-3.5" and the diameter of the old rear tires at 16'-6" wondering if I'm going to bind up the drivetrain roading the loader to my different jobs I have for it.

According to this article, I should be okay as I have a 2-1/2", roughly 60mm or 1.27% difference in diameter from axle to axle.


However, according to Chris5500, the spec should be 40mm or less rear to front. If I stayed off-road, I wouldn't be too concerned, but I need to road from one property to another. Anybody know the actual spec. from International-Hough for my H80B?

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BigBlue1

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Can you run one pair at higher or lower PSI to change the effective circumference to get you within spec? With a tire, the real 'felt' circumference is a function of the radius of your wheel/tire between the axle and the ground, not the measured circumference. Change that radius by adjusting pressure and you change the actual revolutions per distance which is what really matters to your drivetrain. Obviously there are other factors such as a ride, carrying capacity and resistance to popping a bead that must be considered when adjusting PSI.

Rob
 
 
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