Anyone built a front snow plow sub-frame?

[lhfarm]

Just picked up an old 7 1/2 foot plow and had planned on using a QA plate w/ the FEL. However, I'd rather have the plow closer to the front of the tractor. Done a lot of searching here and have found several threads in other colors (especially green) on home built sub-frames. I know NH makes a front mount plow, but haven't found much info on that. Has anyone with a blue tractor used this method for mounting a plow?

Thanks,

 

[RADIUM]

The only thing I can tell you I had a TC 40 DA with the front snowblower the subframe was the same for the front plow and Broom attachment, you could take it off during the summer or leave it on quite sturdy and around 265 pounds the brackets would be left on and they would not interfere with loader , I would try to mimic that design so the plow is not pushing on anything that it shouldn't be. I'll see if I have some pictures of the old TC 40 subframe and I don't know how much it cost I bought it as a package deal with my snowblower. As far as making a connection to the subframe I'm sure that would be no problem. I was thinking about doing it myself, rather than put a plow on my loader arms take care

 

[lhfarm]

Pictures would be great. I don't know if they still sell the frame, but I would love to find one or build my own. As always, the cheaper the better.

Thanks!

 

[RADIUM]

here are some pictures I posted on this site. I'll try to find ones of the actual mount itself, but you get the general idea take care

 

[lhfarm]

That really helps. I didn't expect it to be so low - or solid!
Thanks!

 

[lhfarm]

Hmmm.... No responses from anyone who has built a plow sub-frame. Guys with other colors seem to pattern theirs after the factory frames. Not sure I can do that here. I was thinking of using the hangers for the BH and the brush guard/weight rack. Given I don't have evidence of a non-factory setup working, I don't want to risk damaging the tractor. I'll stick with the QA plate and loader.

Still, I think the sub-frame is a better idea.

 

[RickB]

Hmmm.... No responses from anyone who has built a plow sub-frame. Guys with other colors seem to pattern theirs after the factory frames. Not sure I can do that here. I was thinking of using the hangers for the BH and the brush guard/weight rack. Given I don't have evidence of a non-factory setup working, I don't want to risk damaging the tractor. I'll stick with the QA plate and loader.

Still, I think the sub-frame is a better idea.

I don't have photos to share tonight, but I have built and used a couple different frame mounted plows. The best way to mount the frame would be to use the weight bracket to support the weight of the frame & plow. Run a couple heavy angle irons or 1/4" wall square tubing from directly behind the plow sector pin mounts to a point on the rear drawbar. This transfers all the push force directly to the drawbar. I would NOT under any circumstances subject the front backhoe mounts to the shock loading that a front frame mounted plow would deliver. Might take and post some photos this weekend.

 

[zzvyb6]

This may help as a reminder of othe pixs I've posted of this setup. All it entails is 2 box tubes dropped down from the side frame rails to pick up the 2 "A" frame holes. I used spherical rod ends with cross bolts to make the connection. A front cylinder does the pickup and down force application. I like downforce for ice breakup. To get the shorter cylinder, I cut the tube using a table saw with a metal cutting wheel and also cut down the rod length. Loader hydraulics does the up down and left right angle. Its been working perfectly for over 10 years in deep, wet snow and even to spread new driveway gravel in the Summer. I can put it on in 5 minutes and remove it in less than that. The loads are primarily fore/aft. Not much sideload because of the short distance between the blade and the front axle. I have full angle capability. The 2000+ psi from the tractor supply makes the truck cylinders (used to about 1000 psi) really fly.

I can run the entire length of my 1 mile gravel road with this setup in high range/high gear and can outrun cars trying to stay with me.

Yes I have hit curbs and rocks which trip the plow springs but that's the way it ought to work.

 

[lhfarm]

I don't have photos to share tonight, but I have built and used a couple different frame mounted plows. The best way to mount the frame would be to use the weight bracket to support the weight of the frame & plow. Run a couple heavy angle irons or 1/4" wall square tubing from directly behind the plow sector pin mounts to a point on the rear drawbar. This transfers all the push force directly to the drawbar. I would NOT under any circumstances subject the front backhoe mounts to the shock loading that a front frame mounted plow would deliver. Might take and post some photos this weekend.

Pictures would be great. I would like to see how you tied the frame to the drawbar. The other option I had considered was tying into the loader towers. I believe, but am not sure that is what the factory mount does. However, it seems that a straight frame to the drawbar might be an easier fabrication.

This may help as a reminder of othe pixs I've posted of this setup. All it entails is 2 box tubes dropped down from the side frame rails to pick up the 2 "A" frame holes. I used spherical rod ends with cross bolts to make the connection. A front cylinder does the pickup and down force application. I like downforce for ice breakup. To get the shorter cylinder, I cut the tube using a table saw with a metal cutting wheel and also cut down the rod length. Loader hydraulics does the up down and left right angle. Its been working perfectly for over 10 years in deep, wet snow and even to spread new driveway gravel in the Summer. I can put it on in 5 minutes and remove it in less than that. The loads are primarily fore/aft. Not much sideload because of the short distance between the blade and the front axle. I have full angle capability. The 2000+ psi from the tractor supply makes the truck cylinders (used to about 1000 psi) really fly.

I can run the entire length of my 1 mile gravel road with this setup in high range/high gear and can outrun cars trying to stay with me.

Yes I have hit curbs and rocks which trip the plow springs but that's the way it ought to work.

This is exactly what I want, except on a blue tractor