Anyone own the new Land Pride LR37 rake yet?

[RBA50]

Dave, are there any big AG shows within a reasonable driving distance to you? That is were I see all this stuff. I doubt that there are to many dealers that have high end implements setting on the lots for sale. No one has that kind of money to just sit there.

Empire Farm Days is coming up in early August. Biggest Ag show in NY. Home

 

[Piston]

Dave,

Keep in mind that with the 4096 or 40108, you can't add the optional gauge wheel if that is something you were interested in. You can add the gauge wheel to the 35 series, and also the 45 series, so you'd either have to go up a level or down a level.

From what I remember, the only difference in the 3596 and 4096 is the actual frame mount of the implement, but the blade is the same size. I'm not sure how much of a difference you'd see between the two, operationally speaking. If I were you, and I was planning on keeping the blade for many, many years, I would seriously consider the 45108 with hydraulic gauge wheel. However, this is a very pricey blade.

If the gauge wheel isn't an issue, then the 40108 should fit the bill nicely. I don't think the 3596 would be ideal for you, it seems like your tractor could give it a run for its money!

Keep in mind, I am going off of research, reading, and info my dealer gave me when I inquired about pricing. I have not actually used either of these blades. I do have recent quotes for the 35 and 40 series if your interested.

I seem to remember that the 3596 with full hydraulics including gauge wheel, was the same price of a 4096 without gauge wheel. Of course, I imagine it wouldn't be too difficult to add your own to the 40 series if one wanted to.

 

[Deerherd]

Thanks everyone for all the help. I have the Land Pride regional reps cell number so I will call him back and see if he will be at the Empire Farm show, it's less than an hour from me.

I am a little confused about the number of rear remotes needed, I currently have three. Two are taken up with Top and tilt. From what everyone seems to be writing I would disconnect the Top and tilt and use those functions on the blade? I guess I was wrongly thinking that I would still use the Top and Tilt for those adjustments.

Brian mentioned I would need a fourth remote, maybe to retain the hydraulic top link? Does one do much adjusting of the top link while using this type of blade?

I will go out and take some pictures and post them of the tractor and maybe I can get some ideas about what to do for this fourth remote.

Again, I really appreciate all the help!

 

[Deerherd]

Here's the photos and I don't really see how to add a fourth remote.

 

[catdozer]

What I'm thinking about your hydraulics is you keeps the tilt cylinder on your tractor plugged in and get Manual tilt on blade as the tractor will do the tilt. And unless you want to keep your top link connected you will need a fourth remote for your sideshift. If not you could just unplug your toplink and use that for your sideshift.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Maybe I missed something but the three way blade only needs three rear remotes. Unless you have a top and tilt running you have three to run the blade.
I will have to disagree with Brian on the tilt using the ratchet adjuster. I have the RBT 4096 with hydraulics on all three axis and I can't imagine not having it. To have to get down and manually adjust the tilt would drive me nuts. I really like being able to adjust all three axis on the fly and do so with regularity. If you can figure out how to deal with the three hydraulic cylinders get the all hydraulic blade. You will not regret it. The cost is not that much more if you are already looking at dual hydraulics.
The other thing is with your tractor you might want to look at the RBT45xxx series. Brian has one; and with your 85 hp you might want the next size up.
I really like my RBT4096. Wish you were closer you could look at it but NY to WA is a long way.



Skid shoes: yes and end plates are nice as well. I actually only use one end plate but it is nice to have. Someday I might use both but the one is really nice.

He does have top and tilt, thus no good reason to have the hydraulic on the tilt portion of the blade IMO.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Just my :2cents: here, but with having a top & tilt setup, you only need to have the angle and the offset hydraulics on the blade. Once a person learns how to make use of the tractor and the blade, there is no need for the gauge wheels IMO. You need all of these functions when grading. I use the angle, tilt and top link functions the most. I use the top link all the time to be able to get the blade up high enough to not worry when transporting and actually just turning around in rough ground. If you need to just get by with the 3, then don't use the offset function.

Forget about HP ratings when looking at the RBT series blades from Land Pride. You need to look at the GVW ratings and go with that based on how much your tractor and loader weigh. When spending this kind of money, you do not want to get the wrong setup. My opinion is if Dave's tractor weighs in over 10K, then go with the RBT45108, if not the
RBT40108 is plenty good. Do not, do not go with a setup that is not rated for your GVW.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Here's the photos and I don't really see how to add a fourth remote. QUOTE]

Electric diverter, simple, easy, about $500. Do it all the time.

 

[Deerherd]

Here's the photos and I don't really see how to add a fourth remote. QUOTE]

Electric diverter, simple, easy, about $500. Do it all the time.

For those of you who have the word "Hydraulics" in your business name it may be simple and easy, but I think I'm going to need pictures...:confused2:

My limited understanding is a diverter valve lets you choose between two separate functions while a third function lets you do two simultaneously.

When I purchased the tractor I had a W R Long third function installed for a snow plow and grapple. (You can see the ungainly ugly bulbous handle in the second picture.)

Would I need to add some kind of "button" to an existing lever to switch between functions like the WR Long? Or could I buy a Scorpion hand grip with an extra button or two to handle the switching of the diverter and third function and get rid of that ugly handle? (Which I will be replacing anyway)

Also for the rear of the tractor are there add on brackets for the additional remotes?

You guys sure know how to spend money!:laughing:

Dave

 

[Furu]

Just my :2cents: here, but with having a top & tilt setup, you only need to have the angle and the offset hydraulics on the blade. Once a person learns how to make use of the tractor and the blade, there is no need for the gauge wheels IMO. You need all of these functions when grading. I use the angle, tilt and top link functions the most. I use the top link all the time to be able to get the blade up high enough to not worry when transporting and actually just turning around in rough ground. )

Brian
Not wanting to hijack the thread but how much tilt angle can you get on the blade using the Top and Tilt Kit that you sell?
I know that when I am cleaning deep ditches that I have a LOT of angle on the blade. Not having top and tilt I figured that it gave you hydraulically what is basically there with the mechanical adjustment from the manufacturer design.
Another way of asking is what is the cylinder stroke length? Since you only have half of that so that the tilt can go both ways how much angle do you get. Obviously a function of blade design and cat 1, 2, or 3 three point lift effects the answer as well.