Anyonr recomend a good lawn roller for Kubota BX

[Mcaveman]

Every review of the ones im finding say they leak or break within a year or so.

 

[orangeandgreen]

I made one out of a 5' section of 12" schedule 80 pipe and welded in 1/4" end plates. It has been going for 10 years with no problems. My father-in-law bought a 48" roller at Lowes several years ago and it cracked at the seam on the second year, he welded up the crack and filled it with quickcrete, it has been going for the last 5 years without issue.

 

[Will_C]

I went through 2 of those hardware store rollers. I finally bit the bullet and bought one from a local iron fabricating shop. It is 6' wide and 18" tall. It has enough steel in it that it weighs 350lbs empty. I have.had no problems in 4 years, including using it on food plots the last 2 years.

Will

 

[Wagtail]

I bought a 'made in China' 3PT roller which was bearing-slung under the frame. The strain of that configuration would've put too much supporting pressure on the bearings, so I dismantled and re-installed the bearings on top of the frame.

I did find one leak around the fill-cap weld. A bit of steel-putty (a 'plasticine' compound that hardens solid) solved that problem.

The attached photo is what the implement looked like when I first received it.

 

[Wagtail]

I've found a couple of pictures of my roller post-conversion.

I did have to shift the centre aerating band IOT avoid hitting the back-brace. As long as you roll straight and lift the implement to make a turn or set up for the next 'line', there's no problems that I've encountered.

 

[orangeandgreen]

"The strain of that configuration would've put too much supporting pressure on the bearings, so I dismantled and re-installed the bearings on top of the frame."

The only things you have changed is taking the bearing mounting bolts from compression to tension and increased the clearance for the roller when the implement is lifted.

 

[Wagtail]

G'day orangeandgreen. Yes and no... firstly, I did this on the recommendation of the bloke who sold it to me (or re-sold it, as it came from China). He'd had a number of previous sales break due to the original configuration and this suggestion was the work-around. Secondly, due to the weight of the loaded (water with a wee bit of anti-freeze) drum on the four bearing mounting bolts in the suspended (underneath) configuration, it would quickly (time wise) shear the bolts with the constant up/down & tractor manoeuvring wobbles/vibrations when setting up for the next pass.

Supporting the bearings on top of the frame reduces those stresses. The aerating spikes are bolted on as a 'strap' and can be removed if I simply want to roll. The other option would have been to purchase a towed roller, but I have small horse paddocks with limited manoeuvring space to utilise that type.

 

[DuckSlayer1017]

I have had this one for 10 years now with no problems. I did a lot of research and it was the heaviest roller I could find and works well. I think the $249 price is real close to what I paid 10 years ago.

Ohio Steel 920 lb. Steel Lawn Roller, 48 in. Path Width - For Life Out Here

 

[Mcaveman]

Duck, that's one I was looking at and had a lot of bad reviews maybe you got lucky or got one before they started making them cheaper?

 

[Garycw]

Best roller I saw was a homemade one. It was a old roller cylinder from a paper mill I think. It had real bearings on the ends and was solid. The drawback is its always heavy. The weak link on the newer ones is where they attach to the arms. If bearings could be added, they would be much better at lasting