Are diesel conditioners needed for new

   / Are diesel conditioners needed for new #61  
I more worried about todays fuels than additives.
Biodiesel is junk and out fuel is too dirty.
Dealers/pump shops busier than ever with todays HP fuel systems and sophisticated injectors.

I ran ATF through my 24 year old 8.3L Cummins and the pump surging stopped. Cost me $24.
 
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   / Are diesel conditioners needed for new #62  
Are any diesel fuel conditioners needed or would be good to use on Subcompact tractors, about 21 hp. Mines new LS122 and mostly sits. It works a few hours a week? Tks
The new low sulfur diesel fuel lacks lubricity. Sulfur was a good lubricant. Older diesel engines were never designed to run on today's low sulfur fuel (that is engines designed early 2000 or before). Hence it is a good idea to add the lubricity back to our diesel fuel for older engines. This can be done by adding a small amount of two stroke oil, at a rate of about 1:200 to 1:300. The very cheapest mineral oil based two stroke oil is perfect for this purpose, no need to spend money on expensive synthetic two stroke oil or even more expensive additives. It only has to lubricate the pump and injectors, nothing else. And it should burn just like diesel fuel does, without adding any extra carbon residue (as it does in two stroke gas engines).

If your engine is a modern design, say designed (not manufactured) after about 2005, it should be designed to run perfectly fine on low sulfur diesel, and the pump may be separately lubricated by engine oil, not just by the fuel itself. It does not need any extra lubricity additives whatsoever.

Now, my tractor drives less than the car. It only does about 60h a year. And I store it's diesel in a dozen jerrycans, enough for about one year. So I also add some diesel stabilizer to keep it fresh and avoid bacteria growth. I use the same treatment that the petrol companies already add to diesel, they just use it in smaller quantities as fuel it is intended to be used right away, not stored for a year as I do. It's called Pri-D fuel stabilizer, and sold by Amazon.

Warning: in the old days, people used to add gas (we call it petrol in Australia, its what goes in normal cars that do not have diesel engine) to diesel in winter to prevent it galling in the cold. That is a very bad idea today, as some gas (aka petrol in AU) nowdays contains ethanol, and you can never be 100% sure if it does or not no matter what the label at the pump station says. Ethanol absorbs water from the air and keeps it in solution instead of separating it out at the bottom of the fuel filter, and you end up with rust inside the old style (not common rail) diesel injectors and pumps that are made of plain steel.
 
   / Are diesel conditioners needed for new #63  
Are any diesel fuel conditioners needed or would be good to use on Subcompact tractors, about 21 hp. Mines new LS122 and mostly sits. It works a few hours a week? Tks
I will tell of my experience... I had a B6200 set idle for a few years. The diesel in the tank turned to a black tar-like substance. Nothing that I have found so far will dissolve it. Not gasoline, not toulene, not alcohol, not lacquer thinner. Luckily the fuel filter did stop it before it went farther. I wound up replacing all hoses and I used a small tank from a lawn tractor. I am still using that setup. The main tank is still useless. Anyone have suggestions on how to proceed to clean the mess out of the tank?
 
   / Are diesel conditioners needed for new #64  
Upstate NY guy here weighing in. Anti gel additive helped me. Few summers ago I had bought 3 or 4 5-gallon cans of diesel and by the time I got to the last can, the temps had gone waaaayyy down. That can of fuel was basically solid. I thought of what a mess it would have been if it had solidified in the tractor tank. (Warmed the fuel up in my shop, added anti-gel and was good to go.). I change fuel filters often but I still worry about condensed water b/c the tractor often just sits for days (or weeks) at a time and with normal temp fluctuations, condensation occurs and the idle time means the fuel isn’t sloshing around so the water’s there and drip, drip….you know how it goes. The Bio-cide sounds like a good idea, too.
 
   / Are diesel conditioners needed for new #65  
I'm lucky here in northern Ontario. We have really good fuel quality. I buy from Petro Canada, and Shell and have never ever had a fuel or gasoline issue.
The fuels are treated right at the tank farms.
 
   / Are diesel conditioners needed for new #67  
Are any diesel fuel conditioners needed or would be good to use on Subcompact tractors, about 21 hp. Mines new LS122 and mostly sits. It works a few hours a week? Tks
Depends how cold it gets in the winter where you live. I'm in Vermont where it frequently gets below 10 above zero and frequently below zero in the winter. I definitely do not want gelling of the fuel so definitely use a diesel fuel conditioner. As for addition lubrication or whatever I don't know but it would take a very good reliable chemist to give you an honest answer because a salesperson will tell you whatever it takes to make a sale. Good luck with that. 👌
 
   / Are diesel conditioners needed for new #68  
I have had two instances. My kubota L3400 quit on me while mowing pastures. After a few seconds it would fire right up. Run a minute or two and die again. I pulled the fuel one off the tank and fuel was trickling. Poked a zip tie in it and it started pouring out. Took tank off and there were several black globs of gelled up stuff that were clogging the outlet on tank. Last winter my truck, 2012 Ram 2500 would would fire and die. It was 10 degrees here in east Texas For a few days. I won’t go through that again. The anti-gel stuff works. As for the truck, when it warmed up it fired right up, luckily i didnt have to have it.
 
   / Are diesel conditioners needed for new #69  
I run Lucas Oil 10013 injector and fuel conditioner in all my diesel rigs along with Sta-bil Diesel all year round .
For my on road vehicles I use the small sta bil bottles that have the measuring cup built in So whrn I fuel up
its ez to add correct amount to tank .
 
   / Are diesel conditioners needed for new #70  
I will tell of my experience... I had a B6200 set idle for a few years. The diesel in the tank turned to a black tar-like substance. Nothing that I have found so far will dissolve it. Not gasoline, not toulene, not alcohol, not lacquer thinner. Luckily the fuel filter did stop it before it went farther. I wound up replacing all hoses and I used a small tank from a lawn tractor. I am still using that setup. The main tank is still useless. Anyone have suggestions on how to proceed to clean the mess out of the tank?
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