If you do enough loads, you’ll get an idea on how much weighs which amount. In the last year, I’ve started working on a lot of demo sites. When I ordered my trailer, THAT activity wasn’t even on my radar. I monitor the loader closely, while loading. Loaded correctly, my job is easy, minus the amount of nails in tires I have to deal with.
One mistake people tend to make is they like to put the heavy stuff at the bottom. This makes sense, during transport, but makes unloading more difficult.
Tree brush goes on the bottom, logs or heavy parts go on top. This keeps the stuff in the trailer, during transport, and makes tarping easier. When you go to dump, the small twigs (in the brush) will easily slide past and break on the D-rings, if the heavy stuff is on top, using the brush to slide on. If the heavy stuff is on bottom, it gets stuck easier. Be careful that all logs are laid in front to back. If you don’t, they can roll, when the trailer is lifted up. I’ve heard of some rolling out and hitting the doors, causing damage. I’ve had a couple roll out, but no damage. It can also be dangerous.
For concrete or big rocks, put a layer of dirt down. Again, if you use the heavy stuff as a cap, instead of a base, dumping is much easier.
Heavy loads get put over the axles, as possible. This is good for towing and dumping. I’ve had enough variety in what I’ve put in my trailer I have a pretty good idea how to load it, for proper weight distribution. Of course, doing demo work, you don’t always get to go in the ideal order.
Take note of where your lift points and hinges are. Keep those in mind, while loading heavy stuff.
Keep a shovel handy. I keep at least one in the toolbox. It’s handy when you’re loaded too front heavy or when stuff gets stuck, inside. Remember, do not stand where the load will land. Major safety issue. If stuff is stuck, use a shovel to break it up, but stand to the side as much as possible.
Also keep a 24-36” prybar handy. I had a log get stuck in the ramp mounts and it was much too heavy to move, by hand. Me and another guy put out weight behind a 36” bar and got it to move enough to come off.
I ran a 2 AWG set of cables from my truck battery to trailer battery. If you’re using the trailer much, do this. I did a detailed write-up, on a couple of other forums, which I’ll come back and link. I also have a high idle setup, on my gas F-350. I use it when I know the load is heavy or loaded poorly. It further retards voltage drop.
Upgrading to 14-ply tires was a huge benefit. I went with Hercules H901’s and won’t use a lesser tire ever again. There are a few other brands built to at least the standard of the H901. I do sone work with a guy who bought the comparable “Americus“ brand. They are holding up well, too.
I’ve had one blowout, while traveling. Of course, I was loaded at around 4.5T (not far from payload capacity). Lifting a loaded dump trailer, in summer, is a terrible experience. Have a proper bottle jack handy as well as a way to get lug nuts off. Also, have a proper spare that’s weight rated, for your load.
Make sure you locate ALL of the grease zerks. Grease often. Use the safety bar, when you’re under the bed. The lift linkage has several zerks, you’ll be under there a while. Don’t risk your life unnecessarily.
Low battery is the cause of most problems, with electric over hydraulic pumps. If you don’t have gravity down, the first sign of a low battery is the fluid will come back into the reservoir too quickly and will blow out the relief. On the power down (opposite of gravity down, some pumps offer both), the pump controls the fluid return rate and a low battery doesn’t control it enough. The next most likely problem is a solenoid giving out. My first one burned up within a couple of weeks. That was replaced, by KTI (the hydraulic pump maker). That one lasted around two years. I am on my third (first one was bad off the shelf, for the most part). I also have a backup I keep, in the truck.
For fluid, I use the least expensive ATF Wal-Mart has.
Im going to post this, now. Scared I’ll accidentally delete it and I don’t want to type it all, again.
Here is a link, to the 2 AWG setup, on a forum you can see the pictures without having an account.
www.glocktalk.com