At Home In The Woods

[955Lincoln]

Grass: cut it now. It is better to have it shorter for the winter months and that grass is WELL established. If you mulch the grass that's there you will have a good lawn next spring. Leaving it long over the winter does not allow it to breath and may attract rodents, or in you area alligators, etc.:thumbsup:

I agree.....It's not good for it laying over like that.

 

[Obed]

Here are links to a couple shelving designs we are considering.

How to Build Cheap Garage Storage

Building a Garage Storage Wall | The Family Handyman

 

[Coyote machine]

Coyote machine, thanks for the shelving suggestion.

My 24' ladder is rated for 225 lbs; I am nowhere close to that weight. It is rated for maximum reach of 23'; that gutter is 21' above the ground.

When using a ladder stabilizer, the stabilizer has to lean against the wall which means the top of the ladder will be slightly under the eave based on the depth of our eaves. I would not want the stabilizer ends resting on the roof; doing so would be sure to damage the shingles. Thus, a longer ladder would not help. The ladder standoffs are 24" which are the longest I could find. Our eaves are 24" deep plus the gutter. You can't tell by the picture, but I was able stand straight up and look down into the gutter to clean it out. I honestly don't know how I could reasonably clean out that gutter much more safely while using a ladder. The only improvement might be a heavier fiberglass ladder but that comes with it's own issues involving the weight of a heavy fiberglass 24' ladder and the difficulty in raising, lowering, and moving it.

Your ladder is not standing 24' vertical. If you had, for instance, a 40' aluminum ladder you COULD reach the roof and put the standoffs on pieces of shingle wood to keep them from damaging your asphalt shingles. You would have more stability and a higher margin of safety by not having so little ladder section overlap as is currently the case. I use a 40' er at my house for just this logic, and it's weight capacity is likely higher too, which is of no real consequence to a lightweight like you!:laughing:

Cut that grass dude!!:thumbsup:

 

[Obed]

Your ladder is not standing 24' vertical. If you had, for instance, a 40' aluminum ladder you COULD reach the roof and put the standoffs on pieces of shingle wood to keep them from damaging your asphalt shingles.

How do you put the shingle wood under the standoffs without first climbing the ladder?

You would have more stability and a higher margin of safety by not having so little ladder section overlap as is currently the case.

That's a good point. I was a little uncomfortable having the ladder extended so far. We may consider getting a longer ladder.

Obed

 

[Coyote machine]

How do you put the shingle wood under the standoffs without first climbing the ladder?

Crazy glue?!:laughing: Nah, just climb up and stick them under the pressure points so they don't dent into the asphalt shingles. The longer ladder and the straighter ladder will put less pressure on the roof then one would at a wider angle as the one you are using now exemplifies, for instance.

That's a good point. I was a little uncomfortable having the ladder extended so far. And the angle/distance from the wall is a factor that has a formula, I forget it's exact specification, but the point is to not make it too far out from the wall at the base. We may consider getting a longer ladder.

Obed

A 40' aluminum ladder is not that heavy for occasional use, you could have your wife move it for you if you're not up to the task.

 

[CurlyDave]

How do you put the shingle wood under the standoffs without first climbing the ladder?

Obed

I would skip the shingle wood, and measure the diameter of the ladder extension legs.

Go to a plumbing supply store and get a 5' stick of foam pipe insulation which will fit snugly over the legs. It should be about $5. Get a serrated knife and cut off two 6" lengths of the pipe insulation. Put these on the ends of the ladder stabilizer with a generous amount of duct tape and you have all the protection you need for shingles. Plus you have a lifetime supply of spares.

 

[KentT]

A 40' aluminum ladder is not that heavy for occasional use, you could have your wife move it for you if you're not up to the task.

I have a class III 40-ft (with two sections), and it is a 2-person job to move it or stand it...

 

[weldingisfun]

Coyote machine, I looked online for plastic shelves from Home Depot . The shelves at the link are $50 for 36" x 24". While those shelves are certainly convenient, I think I can get much better shelves by building them myself for less money. Plus, I think it will be a fun project to build them.

Obed

"......it will be a fun project to build them". That is, imho, one of the most important considerations. Go for it, Obed.

 

[woodlandfarms]

I am going to be contrary to the shelves and say go buy them. In both Portland and la we have people who sell used pallet shelving. While building is cheaper than the metal it is not by enough for me when you consider labor. Wood shelves are also not adjustable. And I gave never felt any wood shelves I have built are as strong as the metal.

Carl

 

[brin]

Obed, I vote with woodlandfarms for all the same reasons given...those wood shelves will end up bowing on you and they are not adjustable as your needs change...I bought mine at Sams Club...I got the industrial chrome wire ones but they have quite a selection and the price seems right on all of them...have you priced lumber lately...and then your labor...Check these out Search Results