Blagadan
Gold Member
B7100 4x4 stearing
- Thread starter jchapmon
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- kubota b7100
lg_mouth
New member
I was just about to post the same thing when I ran across this. I am in the "no steering" club though. I had about 3/4 of a turn play in mine B7100 and it went crunch yesterday afternoon while blading up some dirt for a food plot. I now have zero steering.
Any ideas on the price of the parts for this repair. My cousin is a diesel mechanic, so thank God he is going to repair it for me.
Thanks for the help.
Lg_mouth
Any ideas on the price of the parts for this repair. My cousin is a diesel mechanic, so thank God he is going to repair it for me.
Thanks for the help.
Lg_mouth
Egon
Epic Contributor
I replaced the bearings on my steering box once. Now if I can fumble thru it most anyone can. Removing the box should not be necessary as it sounds like you have disassembled it in place. Taking the box off is not very difficult.
For getting the nut ball assembly in the proper position perhaps take off the pitman arm, assemble the steering box, turn the steering wheel from lock to lock and then center it, replace the pitman arm with the wheels pointing straight ahead. Also make sure the steering wheel has the spokes properly positioned before replacing it.
On mine I just replaced bearings the first time but the nut ball assembly failed in a very short time. The main shaft was worn. For the second time the parts were ordered and I took the box with me when I picked them up. It took the fellows about 20 minutes to reassemble everything so I just had to bolt the box in place.
Note; a brass hammer worked for removing the steering wheel. A puller did not work. You should also have a puller for the pitman arm.
For getting the nut ball assembly in the proper position perhaps take off the pitman arm, assemble the steering box, turn the steering wheel from lock to lock and then center it, replace the pitman arm with the wheels pointing straight ahead. Also make sure the steering wheel has the spokes properly positioned before replacing it.
On mine I just replaced bearings the first time but the nut ball assembly failed in a very short time. The main shaft was worn. For the second time the parts were ordered and I took the box with me when I picked them up. It took the fellows about 20 minutes to reassemble everything so I just had to bolt the box in place.
Note; a brass hammer worked for removing the steering wheel. A puller did not work. You should also have a puller for the pitman arm.
charlz
Elite Member
Well... BOTH times I have had mine apart I have failed to take pics etc.
The service manual covers the basic disassemble but you are on your own for the reassemble. I bought the service manual manual for a clutch change out but was pretty disappointed that it didn't even have all the torque values.
The first time I replaced just the thrust bearings but there was a small nick on the shaft worm gear. The second time, not too long after the first, I had to go back in and replace the shaft/nut ball assembly... to the tune of about $163. And it was not easy to get, something about Kubota updating part numbers and they crossed the new part number to the wrong part. My steering had totally failed the first time and was getting worse and worse the second time. Turns out the second time I was chewing up the worm gear part.
Both times I took the steering box off the tractor as it is much easier working with it on the bench. I did not take the pitman arm off though (no puller) so you kinda have to work on the side of the bench.
IIRC I rotated the steering so the teeth inside were at their highest point, spun the bearing block up the shaft almost to the top. Insert the shaft in the lower bearing while engaging the teeth at the same time. You get a little wiggle room. Trick is make sure the bottom bearing is actually under the shaft and didn't pop up out of its cup. Its a bit tricky but I am handy so.... If you want a real challenge take the nut ball off the shaft with its gazillion little bearings.. took me most of a day to figure out how to put it back together!
If your oil was milky at all I would replace the seal that is in the steering column above the top bearing. The steering box oil I didn't drain and replace when I got the tractor.. that was an expensive mistake as based on the condition of the oil I would have torn into it before problems showed up.
BTW did you get the bottom bearing out completely? I had to use a slide hammer to get the rest of the race out.
If I have to do steering again I am going with custom Power Steering
Charles
Egon
Epic Contributor
I should dig around and find a photo of my disassembled steering box with the ball bearings scattered over the basement floor!
Gomerpile78
New member
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2010
- Messages
- 3
- Tractor
- Kubota b7100
I had the same problem. Cost me $21 for parts and about 4 hours of take down, play with, fix and reinstal. Be careful with the berring on the end, it will move and get damage easily. Not too hard and well worth it.
Phil in Wales
New member
so...5 years later
I replaced the steering shaft and thrust bearings on my B7001 using parts imported at some cost from the US and following the instructions here. A year on, the bearing block suddenly disintegrated, with a bang. Analysis suggests a faulty casting, and the supplier is shipping a replacement for no charge
Being a hoarder I had kept the old shaft & bearing block, which was fine but just a bit worn, so i refitted it.
I have found that the easiest way by far is to drain the steering box, take off the side plate that carries the thrust adjusting screw and remove the toothy thing (don't know the name) that connects to the Pitman shaft. You can then install the steering shaft and lower race with no drama and watch proceedings through the side hole to make sure the bottom bearing is still in the right place. You can put the outer tube in place, bolt it down and check everything is turning free and with no play. Then centre the bearing block by eye, introduce the toothed gear thingy and rotate the shaft until it all meshes in the right place. Because you can see it, this is really easy.
Then replace the side plate, fill it up with oil and away you go.
The first time took me 5 days because I could shift neither the steering wheel off the shaft nor the Pitman arm off the splines. Second time was under 1 hour from engine off to engine back on again with working steering.
I replaced the steering shaft and thrust bearings on my B7001 using parts imported at some cost from the US and following the instructions here. A year on, the bearing block suddenly disintegrated, with a bang. Analysis suggests a faulty casting, and the supplier is shipping a replacement for no charge
Being a hoarder I had kept the old shaft & bearing block, which was fine but just a bit worn, so i refitted it.
I have found that the easiest way by far is to drain the steering box, take off the side plate that carries the thrust adjusting screw and remove the toothy thing (don't know the name) that connects to the Pitman shaft. You can then install the steering shaft and lower race with no drama and watch proceedings through the side hole to make sure the bottom bearing is still in the right place. You can put the outer tube in place, bolt it down and check everything is turning free and with no play. Then centre the bearing block by eye, introduce the toothed gear thingy and rotate the shaft until it all meshes in the right place. Because you can see it, this is really easy.
Then replace the side plate, fill it up with oil and away you go.
The first time took me 5 days because I could shift neither the steering wheel off the shaft nor the Pitman arm off the splines. Second time was under 1 hour from engine off to engine back on again with working steering.
