Barn insulation

Bayrat · Jan 6, 2002

I recently built a barn, 1/3 of which is a workshop. My next step is to insulate the steel walls in the shop area so it can be heated while in use. It seems to me the steel does not seal very well at the bottom where it adjoins the channel moulding and the 2x12 stringer. It is not a construction defect, just currogated steel meeting steel at that point. I received an estimate of 2k from the spray on foam people, can't afford that. Any suggestions? I thought of perhaps filling the lower gaps with that canned foam and then using fiberglass but am not sure how to proceed. Not a real good carpenter, and don't have much experience here. I have seen all sorts of things, but want mine to be right. I have 14' ceilings. Thanks.

s1120 · Jan 6, 2002

filling the lower gaps with that canned foam and then using fiberglass 

Thats what I would do. Hummm do mice eat foam?

PTRich · Jan 6, 2002

Have you considered rigid foam panels? I think they come in 12 footers. Probably the most important thing is to insulate the cieling, Heat rises.

PTRich

StoneHeartFarm · Jan 6, 2002

Mice don't actually eat foam, but they do find it right nice to nest in. Termites, on the other hand, will eat it and also find it quite nice to nest in and will use it as a bridge to jump to non treated wood.

I expect that mice would also lodge in fiberglass. My question is how to secure the fiberglass batts to keep them from sagging. Running studs seems fairly expensive. Perhaps staggered 2x2's?

SHF

s1120 · Jan 6, 2002

My question is how to secure the fiberglass batts to keep them from sagging. Running studs seems fairly expensive. Perhaps staggered 2x2's? 

You are planing to cover up the fiberglass arnt you? I don't know if it is where you are, but where I am it must be coverd. Fire hazzard I guess. How far apart are your studs? Are they wood, or steel? May be able to spring in some stiff wire to hold it in. Like this l---l---l Just a thought.

Bayrat · Jan 6, 2002

The poles are 8' centers with the usual 2x4 stringers running around and tying them together. The walls are steel and the ceiling is steel which is already partially insulated with rolled fiberglas. That is an easy area to finins. Perhaps that foam sheeting is the way to go on the walls, I could glue or nail?? it or maybe there is a way to stack it and cover with drywall. I think the fiberglass may be the least expensive, I haven't priced anything but that sprayed on yet. I thought perhaps someone here might have done a building like mine and have the perfect answer, but as I see there are many options.

GlueGuy · Jan 7, 2002

So it looks like you have a few issues.

First that you mention is that your building is not "tight". I think the spray-can foam would work to seal the edges where you are getting drafts.

The second is the insulation. As you may or may not know, steel is a lowsy insulator. In fact, it is on the other side of the equation, as is actually considered a pretty good heat conducotor. Aluminum has it beat in that regard, but it's still pretty good at conducting heat.

That said, you may be able to put up stringers, and fasten fiberglass batting to those. I would say that you would need to pay attention to the vapor barrier, as you sure wouldn't want condensation on the steel.

rdln · Jan 7, 2002

ask contractor of barn if he can get you 8' wide fiberglass batting if not call around it is out there. Duct tape it from roof purlins while you staple vapor barrier and then another set of 2x4 stringers to attach drywall or steel sheeting on inside. compression of 2x4s is "supposed" to hold insulation up.

Got mine from morton @43 cents/sq ft. in 40' rolls

BHarrison · Jan 7, 2002

I know it may sound expensive, but foam is the way to go. You didnt mention how big your barn is, but 2K really does not sound that bad.
I had Icynene sprayed in my house, and it was money WELL SPENT. It's like being in an ice chest. After going the Icynene route, I feel like it's the only way to insulate.

my $.02

Bayrat · Jan 7, 2002

The barn is 40x60 but the area I am concerned with is 20x40. Included in this area is a wooden divider wall that I will insulate with fiberglass. I calculated the square footage after removing the OH door, entrance door and two windows and found it to be around 800 square feet. That is what I don't understand about this spray on foam estimate, they state it will cost 79 cents a running foot for 1 1/2". When I questioned how they determine what a running foot is, the salesman told me it is 1'x1' and that is how they price it. Weeelll....any fifth grade math student can tell you that is what a square foot consists of. But not according to this company, a 1'x1' measurement has to be converted to square feet by multiplying by at least two. I would rather go the spraying route, but if the cost is over two dollars a square foot, I may try those 8' rolls someone mentioned. By the way, the poles are set on 8' centers.