battery terminal corrosion

[have_blue]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( OK Something is getting lost in the translation here - not worth beating on it. )</font>

You're right. It's too simple. The Boomers I have seen all have the starter on the right, as you face the battery box. The battery positive post should always be on the same side.

I've never worked on a battery while sitting in the driver's seat, so I like to say the positive post is on the right. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Rch]

I've heard that wire brushing a battery terminal with a steel bristled brush leaves trace amounts of ferric/ous contamination behind that aggravates corrosion because of dissimilar metals going galvanic.Try cleaning up with a nylon/plastic pan scrubber and rinse well and dry to get a clean lead to lead connection.
Also, I use those red and green treated felt washers under the connection as much for an easy visual for positive and negative. I think they help.
The bolts on the cable connectors are usually steel thus adding a dissimilar metal very nearby. Sealing out air/oxygen with paint, grease or dedicate battery terminal spray interups the "cottage cheese" factory but needs to be applied on the under surfaces as well.
There are treated "BatteryMats" to prevent corrosions in the case as well. Often these have to be trimmed to fit and I wonder about anchoring a strip with nylon zip ties to the cables over the caps as an extra measure. This may prevent disaster till that battery dies and a more appropiate battery replaces it.

 

[deepsnow]

Just ordered an Optima 51 from Remy, a retailer in the Milwaukee,WI area. Price $89.93 + tax +UPS. Only catch is their stock is out for a week. D51R same price and in stock.

 

[Cricket]

For what its worth I have a tc33d and used the 51r. Fits perfect with the positive on the right side looking from the front.

 

[MikePA]

The point of confusion over which group 51 is the correct model for Class II Boomers is caused by different vendors using different model designations for the 2 different Group 51 Optima batteries. There's a Group 51 with standard terminals and a second Group 51 with reversed terminals. I would have thought Optima would have standard names for them. Apparently not. Perhaps some vendors are using the designation 51R to mean 51 Regular terminals.

At both tna-sports.com and 1st Optima battery sales.com the Model 51 is the correct battery.

You can verify this by clicking on this link. Plus here's my question to tna-sports.com and their answer.


Correct..

--
Tim Shuster
TNA Sports
www.tna-sports.com

> Tim,
>
> Just to be sure...
>
> With the battery positioned so the posts are closest to you, on the the
> Model 51 the positive post is on your left, correct?

 

[webbmeister]

Wow! What a bargain! I paid $139! Ouch!!! /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

 

[webbmeister]

Mike:

I have my 25d at the dealer right now for warranty work on the corrosion. Do you have, by any chance, knowledge of a service bulletin or other documentation that this is an acknowledged problem (By NH?) Spencer? Do you know? My dealer is mostly Cub Cadet - he doesn't see much of this kind of action.

Thanks,

Jim

 

[MikePA]

Sorry, Jim, I am not aware of any service bulletin. Perhaps one of the folks who works at a NH dealer will answer if there is one.

 

[PineRidge]

I'm curious, I got a TC-40D 2 weeks ago. Is the battery in my class 3 affected also. I have almost 48 hours on it so far and have bounced it around more than a couple of times with a full FEL but I see no evidence of acid/battery problems. I have been checking it on a regular basis.

When I asked my dealer about the battery problem I was told It was mainly on 2001 models with overfilled batteries. Am I being hosed, and should I be concerned as well?

 

[MikeBurr]

Has anyone tried using a battery box to contain the splashing liquid? If so, did it work? Or is it even a good idea - what would be the problems? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif