Best and favorite way to splice into OEM wiring harnesses?

   #1  

FTG-05

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I'm looking to add lights to my new RTV-XG850. What's your favorite and best way to splice into OEM wires for power? Assume you only have a couple inches of OEM wire to work with.

Anyone who answers with one of these POSs will be automatically ignored:

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   #2  

Captain Dirty

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Two inches is a short distance to make a "T" or "Y"; it will be difficult to get the jaws of a crimper in there. Take 2 wires (since this is a tractor forum I'll assume a vehicle with stranded wire) of the same size as the conductor you wish to tap and twist the ends together. Find the smallest in-line butt splice connector that will accept the twisted pair. Cut and strip the conductor, twist the tapping leg wire to one of the cut conductors and make a butt connection to the other cut conductor. Crimp and cover.

If there were enough room to have slipped shrink-wrap over the conductors before installing you could have done that. If not enough room, use heat-shrink crimpable connectors. Some companies do make in-line connectors that will accept multiple conductors (or a larger size conductor) in one end, but they are pricey.
 
   #3  

5030

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I have one as well and if you follow the harness, you'll find a Molex plug to add lights. I never use those squeeze to apply connectors for anything. Very poor for accessing any power. They corrode after time and turn to crap.

If you really want to cut into the harness, use quality Western Union moisture resistant splices and heat shrink tubing with di-electric grease inside.
 
   #4  

kenmbz

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I am an old school solder and heat shrink type. But I do have some nice crimpers too for spade or other more removable connections. I also like the connectors like they use in automotive (SAE 2 wire) I have these so I can plug/unplug/adapt items like phone charger, led lights etc. to the ROPs wiring.
 
  
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FTG-05

FTG-05

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Two inches is a short distance to make a "T" or "Y"; it will be difficult to get the jaws of a crimper in there. Take 2 wires (since this is a tractor forum I'll assume a vehicle with stranded wire) of the same size as the conductor you wish to tap and twist the ends together. Find the smallest in-line butt splice connector that will accept the twisted pair. Cut and strip the conductor, twist the tapping leg wire to one of the cut conductors and make a butt connection to the other cut conductor. Crimp and cover.

If there were enough room to have slipped shrink-wrap over the conductors before installing you could have done that. If not enough room, use heat-shrink crimpable connectors. Some companies do make in-line connectors that will accept multiple conductors (or a larger size conductor) in one end, but they are pricey.
You mean like these? I saw this on one of Andrew Camarata's videos. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073RMRCC3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

81xoZyI8d2L._SL1500_.jpg
 
   #6  

dlctcg

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If the space is that tight I would use a IN-LINE MULTI WIRE BUTT CONNECTOR... basically it will connects two wires of smallest listed AWG to one of the same gauge on the opposite end. Crimp, Heat & Seal.... done. They are pricey but an excellent solution & an excellent connection.

The ones we use have extra-active and free-flowing adhesive lining that seals between multiple wires. They creates a weatherproof connection & most are rated to meet certain UL and CSA classifications.

These will give you a strong & watertight connection, & are listed for that exact use.

Wiring Depot - 2 -1 Connectors

Del City - Multi- wire Connectors

Waytek - Multiple Sealed Wire Connectors (found it)

We buy from Del City & Waytek... (could find the Waytek ones).... but I'm sure Amazon & alike have them too...
 
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   #7  

Rebeldad1

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1 correct way without damaging the wire.

strip about 1/2" of the factory wire's insulation off leaving a bare wire exposed without damaging the wire.

take a pin and separate the open strand wire you just striped in half leaving a gap.

strip an inch of insulation off the end of the auxiliary wire. poke it through the gap you made and tightly wrap it around the factory wire.

solder the splice, and wrap it with electrical tape.


you now have a splice that created no damage to the factory wiring.

this is how we were taught In GM training school.

hope i used my best english.
 
   #8  

bearthebruce

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1 correct way without damaging the wire.

1. strip about 1/2" of the factory wire's insulation off leaving a bare wire exposed without damaging the wire.

2. take a pin and separate the open strand wire you just striped in half leaving a gap.

3. strip an inch of insulation off the end of the auxiliary wire. poke it through the gap you made and tightly wrap it around the factory wire.

4. solder the splice, and wrap it with electrical tape.


you now have a splice that created no damage to the factory wiring.

this is how we were taught In GM training school.
I was taught a slight modification to this for mil-spec splices:

At step 3, strip the inch, then divide into 2 pieces, poke one half through the hole and wrap the wire to the left of the hole. Take the other half over the wire, wrap ccw to the right of the whole.

This was supposed to make a very strong mechanical connection that is not depending on the solder for strength.

Mind I must admit, I rarely take the time to do all this.

Normally I would just wrap one wire around the other.
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Just a note, in automotive apps, they do not recommend soldering. The vibration of the machine can fatigue the wire just at the start of the place where the soldering is done. You have soft wire coming to a very hard spot. As the wire wiggles, that spot fatigues. Butt splices are preferred. Heat shrink butt splices are more preferred:200pcs Heat Shrink Butt Connectors Terminals, Eventronic Insulated Waterproof Marine Automotive Copper Wire Electrical Kits (3 Colors 3 Sizes): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
 
   #9  

Captain Dirty

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There are academic (religious) arguments over soldering vs crimping as bearthebruce noted. I was thinking of the Wiring Depot connectors dictcg referenced. I do not solder frequently enough to be good at it so I am in the crimping camp. I do less damage with a heat gun or hair dryer than I do with a soldering iron or torch.
 

DL Meisen

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