BIY tooth bar - CRS/Mild Steel ok? abbrasive resistant metal a must?

   / BIY tooth bar - CRS/Mild Steel ok? abbrasive resistant metal a must? #1  

eCRX

Bronze Member
Joined
May 25, 2016
Messages
74
Location
Ayr
Tractor
2004 Massey Ferguson GC2300, 2015 Cub Cadet XT2
Hey Everyone.

I'd like a tooth bar for a project that will probably consume about 30-50 hours, only problem is that I don't believe i need one long-term. I enjoy fabricating, but don't want to invest time into something that will become a boat ancor within a few hours.

I have access to a cnc laser, and am pretty handy with my grinders and welder, so I was thinking of making a 'piranha' style unit out of some 1018.

Material being worked would be ripping up a lawn, a lot of course sand, and a good amount of clay\sand with sporatic potato-sized rocks.

This would be on a Massey GC2300/BX23 sized SCUT.

will 1018 cut it (pun intended)?

Thanks.
 
   / BIY tooth bar - CRS/Mild Steel ok? abbrasive resistant metal a must? #2  
I own a FEL toothbar and a landscape box.

Based on my experience, my recommendation to you is to buy a landscape box with adjustable rippers to use with your rear tree point hitch. The issue with using a toothbar on the bucket of a FEL is transmitting shocks into your loader and hydraulic system. Most people can also achieve a smoother finish using a rear landscape box than they can with the front bucket.

You could resell the landscape box later if you don't need it for other purposes, but if you have a gravel or dirt road to maintain, a landscape box is very helpful to own.
 
   / BIY tooth bar - CRS/Mild Steel ok? abbrasive resistant metal a must? #3  
What the heck is a landscape box (for a tractor)...???
 
   / BIY tooth bar - CRS/Mild Steel ok? abbrasive resistant metal a must? #4  
Always keep in mind, the softer the material the shorter the lifespan.
 
   / BIY tooth bar - CRS/Mild Steel ok? abbrasive resistant metal a must? #6  
Hey Everyone.

I'd like a tooth bar for a project that will probably consume about 30-50 hours, only problem is that I don't believe i need one long-term. I enjoy fabricating, but don't want to invest time into something that will become a boat ancor within a few hours.

I have access to a cnc laser, and am pretty handy with my grinders and welder, so I was thinking of making a 'piranha' style unit out of some 1018.

Material being worked would be ripping up a lawn, a lot of course sand, and a good amount of clay\sand with sporatic potato-sized rocks.

This would be on a Massey GC2300/BX23 sized SCUT.

will 1018 cut it (pun intended)?

Thanks.
It will work, you might bend teeth of you hit rocks/roots. If you can get a hold of something like AR400 you can go with thinner 1/4" plate
 
   / BIY tooth bar - CRS/Mild Steel ok? abbrasive resistant metal a must?
  • Thread Starter
#7  
I own a FEL toothbar and a landscape box.

Based on my experience, my recommendation to you is to buy a landscape box with adjustable rippers to use with your rear tree point hitch. The issue with using a toothbar on the bucket of a FEL is transmitting shocks into your loader and hydraulic system. Most people can also achieve a smoother finish using a rear landscape box than they can with the front bucket.

You could resell the landscape box later if you don't need it for other purposes, but if you have a gravel or dirt road to maintain, a landscape box is very helpful to own.

Appreciate the response.

I actually have a 54in(?) box blade available to me and was going to use it with the tooth bar.

I've only ever used large track loaders, and FELs on SCUTs so it's hard for me to imagine grading with anything but a bucket.

Never seen rippers in action on a lawn. Will it rip it up in chunks?

Are FELs on SCUTs really that delicate? I'm pretty easy on not-rented equipment :p
 
   / BIY tooth bar - CRS/Mild Steel ok? abbrasive resistant metal a must? #8  
If you are trying to rip up well established sod, it's going to bunch up because of the root system. A pull behind disc would do much better at slicing up the sod than either the FEL or the box blade.

Since you have access to a box blade, I'd suggest first trying it instead of spending time fabricating a toothbar. If you have access to a disc, that would be much better at slicing sod.

If compare the loader arms on a compact tractor versus a skid loader or track loader, they aren't as strong. The rear three point hitch on a tractor is designed for plowing. The FEL isn't.
 
   / BIY tooth bar - CRS/Mild Steel ok? abbrasive resistant metal a must? #9  
I'd say a mild steel cutting edge should be fine but you would have to touch up the tooth-bar with a grinder pretty often in comparison to a harder steel. And eventually it will be worn out.

But unless the wait time is too much, I think you'll have more in time and materials that the cost of the Piranha bar.
 
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   / BIY tooth bar - CRS/Mild Steel ok? abbrasive resistant metal a must? #10  
From the little experience I have using the box blade. Making small or shallow cuts. Works much better. Just put the tips of the rippers in the ground not the box blade all the way down . Lowest gear on tractor and go slow . its amazing what you can do in an hour. After ground is tore up scrap it off with the box blade and then push it off with FEL.
 
 
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