Box Blade or Land Plane - for this dirt road type? Other?

   #1  

frogracer

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Jan 15, 2018
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Location
Sealy/Columbus, TX
Tractor
NH T4.120 - ArmstrongAg Grapple, Pallet Fork
Looking for your thoughts on which tool would be best for maintaining the driveway/road type in the photos below - It's about 800' long.

The red dirt / rock mix is made up of both fines and some larger rocks some up to about 2-3" diameter.

Appreciate your feedback as I am in the market for one or the other attachments to maintain the road.

IMG_3946.JPGIMG_8698.JPGIMG_8699.JPGIMG_9733.JPG
 
   #2  

Tompet

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Ohio
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Ferguson TO 20, Kubota B3300, BH77, Massey Ferguson 1540
My vote....Land plane with rippers...for sure
 
   #3  

Steppenwolfe

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The Blue Ridge Mountains
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Kubota MX5400, ZD 331, L3301, 1140 RTV, KX 71
I own both. My experience has been on gravel, the land plane is best; on soil / dirt, the box blade can't be beat. :2cents:
 
   #4  

oosik

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AMBER, WA
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2009 Kubota M6040
Land plane grading scraper if you are simply smoothing out a road. Box blade if you need to move material from here to there. I would definitely recommend that your first purchase be a land plane grading scraper. Almost zero time on learning curve and it will surprise you - how good a job it does.

With either of these two land engagement implements I strongly recommend purchase of a hydraulic top link. Jobs are so much easier, almost eliminates frustration and you will finally use the implement in its perfect alignment. I finally bought a hyd top link - after thirty years without. Being able to make finite adjustments to ANY land engagement implement - on-the-go - is priceless. Stopping, dismount, twist, twist, twist - never getting it quite right, again, again, again - - - a far distant memory of the past.
 
   #5  

fried1765

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Looking for your thoughts on which tool would be best for maintaining the driveway/road type in the photos below - It's about 800' long.

The red dirt / rock mix is made up of both fines and some larger rocks some up to about 2-3" diameter.

Appreciate your feedback as I am in the market for one or the other attachments to maintain the road.

View attachment 537042View attachment 537043View attachment 537044View attachment 537045

NEITHER ONE!
You need a rear blade,.... preferably with a tail wheel!
A box blade is primarily for moving material from one point to another, and cannot be angled.
A land plane will give you a nice even surface that will be flat,..... and water will puddle (as in your pix).
You need a CROWN on that driveway, and ditches on Both sides.
You have a nice water catchment area on one side, but almost none on the other.
Think...CROWN...CROWN...CROWN.....!!!
ONLY a blade can give you (and maintain), the crown that you need!
You will need to develop some experience using a blade, but you will get/maintain the VERY best end result!
 
   #6  

Egon

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NEITHER ONE!
You need a rear blade,.... preferably with a tail wheel!
A box blade is primarily for moving material from one point to another, and cannot be angled.
A land plane will give you a nice even surface that will be flat,..... and water will puddle (as in your pix).
You need a CROWN on that driveway, and ditches on Both sides.
You have a nice water catchment area on one side, but almost none on the other.
Think...CROWN...CROWN...CROWN.....!!!
ONLY a blade can give you (and maintain), the crown that you need!
You will need to develop some experience using a blade, but you will get/maintain the VERY best end result!

That is the choice I would make.
 
   #7  

oosik

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2009 Kubota M6040
I will agree - a heavy rear blade on that tractor of the OP's can be a very good and universal implement. The other fact - efficient use of a rear blade has a MUCH longer learning curve and can make a new, inexperienced operator pretty darn frustrated. If a heavy duty rear blade is purchased - then the hydraulic top link becomes even more important. I say hydraulic top link rather than rear tail wheel because the top link can be used on most any ground engagement implement. Tail wheel is a one implement addition.

Weight is your friend if using a rear blade. I have a Rhino 950 - 8' - 1000#. I would recommend a blade this size or the next step up - Rhino 1540 - 8' - 1750#. Be prepared for $$$ shock............
 
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   #8  

lostcreekranch

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Colorado County, Texas
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NH TL-100A with Bush Hog 5045 FEL, WR Long 3rd function, LS XR4155HC w/FEL, WR Long 3rd Function.
I agree on a rear blade for getting your road built. I’ve got a Land Pride RB3796 that I can run on my 55 HP and my 96 HP tractors.

IMG_1558.JPG

You could easily run a heavier RBT 45xx Series Blade on your tractor.

RBT45 Series Rear Blades | Land Pride

Hydraulic top link is almost a must have. Look at Fit-Rite Hydraulics for Top and side links.

Fit Rite Hydraulics - fitritehydraulics.com

Gauge wheels are ok, but IMHO, skid shoes are simpler and way less cost.

Once you get your road constructed, a land plane will be excellent for maintenance of it.

IMG_0060.JPG
 
  
  • Thread Starter
#9  
OP
frogracer

frogracer

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Jan 15, 2018
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67
Location
Sealy/Columbus, TX
Tractor
NH T4.120 - ArmstrongAg Grapple, Pallet Fork
Wow - sounds like one day all three items will need to rented/borrowed or purchased. Please keep your comments coming as I am weighing my opitons...
Thank You!
 
 
 
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