Box Blade or Land Plane - for this dirt road type? Other?

   #1  

frogracer

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Joined
Jan 15, 2018
Messages
67
Location
Sealy/Columbus, TX
Tractor
NH T4.120 - ArmstrongAg Grapple, Pallet Fork
Looking for your thoughts on which tool would be best for maintaining the driveway/road type in the photos below - It's about 800' long.

The red dirt / rock mix is made up of both fines and some larger rocks some up to about 2-3" diameter.

Appreciate your feedback as I am in the market for one or the other attachments to maintain the road.

IMG_3946.JPGIMG_8698.JPGIMG_8699.JPGIMG_9733.JPG
 
   #2  

Tompet

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Oct 6, 2004
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765
Location
Ohio
Tractor
Ferguson TO 20, Kubota B3300, BH77, Massey Ferguson 1540
My vote....Land plane with rippers...for sure
 
   #3  

Steppenwolfe

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Apr 11, 2012
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5,912
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The Blue Ridge Mountains
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Kubota MX5400, ZD 331, L3301, 1140 RTV, KX 71
I own both. My experience has been on gravel, the land plane is best; on soil / dirt, the box blade can't be beat. :2cents:
 
   #4  

oosik

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Aug 22, 2012
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AMBER, WA
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2009 Kubota M6040
Land plane grading scraper if you are simply smoothing out a road. Box blade if you need to move material from here to there. I would definitely recommend that your first purchase be a land plane grading scraper. Almost zero time on learning curve and it will surprise you - how good a job it does.

With either of these two land engagement implements I strongly recommend purchase of a hydraulic top link. Jobs are so much easier, almost eliminates frustration and you will finally use the implement in its perfect alignment. I finally bought a hyd top link - after thirty years without. Being able to make finite adjustments to ANY land engagement implement - on-the-go - is priceless. Stopping, dismount, twist, twist, twist - never getting it quite right, again, again, again - - - a far distant memory of the past.
 
   #5  

fried1765

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Jan 6, 2015
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10,195
Tractor
Kubota L48 TLB, Ford 1920 FEL, 8N Ford, Gravely 12 HP "Professional", 48" SCAG Liberty
Looking for your thoughts on which tool would be best for maintaining the driveway/road type in the photos below - It's about 800' long.

The red dirt / rock mix is made up of both fines and some larger rocks some up to about 2-3" diameter.

Appreciate your feedback as I am in the market for one or the other attachments to maintain the road.

View attachment 537042View attachment 537043View attachment 537044View attachment 537045

NEITHER ONE!
You need a rear blade,.... preferably with a tail wheel!
A box blade is primarily for moving material from one point to another, and cannot be angled.
A land plane will give you a nice even surface that will be flat,..... and water will puddle (as in your pix).
You need a CROWN on that driveway, and ditches on Both sides.
You have a nice water catchment area on one side, but almost none on the other.
Think...CROWN...CROWN...CROWN.....!!!
ONLY a blade can give you (and maintain), the crown that you need!
You will need to develop some experience using a blade, but you will get/maintain the VERY best end result!
 
   #6  

Egon

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Aug 14, 2001
Messages
21,972
Location
Nova Scotia, Canada
NEITHER ONE!
You need a rear blade,.... preferably with a tail wheel!
A box blade is primarily for moving material from one point to another, and cannot be angled.
A land plane will give you a nice even surface that will be flat,..... and water will puddle (as in your pix).
You need a CROWN on that driveway, and ditches on Both sides.
You have a nice water catchment area on one side, but almost none on the other.
Think...CROWN...CROWN...CROWN.....!!!
ONLY a blade can give you (and maintain), the crown that you need!
You will need to develop some experience using a blade, but you will get/maintain the VERY best end result!

That is the choice I would make.
 
   #7  

oosik

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AMBER, WA
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2009 Kubota M6040
I will agree - a heavy rear blade on that tractor of the OP's can be a very good and universal implement. The other fact - efficient use of a rear blade has a MUCH longer learning curve and can make a new, inexperienced operator pretty darn frustrated. If a heavy duty rear blade is purchased - then the hydraulic top link becomes even more important. I say hydraulic top link rather than rear tail wheel because the top link can be used on most any ground engagement implement. Tail wheel is a one implement addition.

Weight is your friend if using a rear blade. I have a Rhino 950 - 8' - 1000#. I would recommend a blade this size or the next step up - Rhino 1540 - 8' - 1750#. Be prepared for $$$ shock............
 
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   #8  

lostcreekranch

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Dec 14, 2012
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Colorado County, Texas
Tractor
NH TL-100A with Bush Hog 5045 FEL, WR Long 3rd function, LS XR4155HC w/FEL, WR Long 3rd Function.
I agree on a rear blade for getting your road built. I’ve got a Land Pride RB3796 that I can run on my 55 HP and my 96 HP tractors.

IMG_1558.JPG

You could easily run a heavier RBT 45xx Series Blade on your tractor.

RBT45 Series Rear Blades | Land Pride

Hydraulic top link is almost a must have. Look at Fit-Rite Hydraulics for Top and side links.

Fit Rite Hydraulics - fitritehydraulics.com

Gauge wheels are ok, but IMHO, skid shoes are simpler and way less cost.

Once you get your road constructed, a land plane will be excellent for maintenance of it.

IMG_0060.JPG
 
  
  • Thread Starter
#9  
OP
frogracer

frogracer

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Joined
Jan 15, 2018
Messages
67
Location
Sealy/Columbus, TX
Tractor
NH T4.120 - ArmstrongAg Grapple, Pallet Fork
Wow - sounds like one day all three items will need to rented/borrowed or purchased. Please keep your comments coming as I am weighing my opitons...
Thank You!
 
 
 
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