Bringing a 640 Back To Life (was Newcomer)

[tderrick]

I just about have her all cleaned up... Time for some wrenching!

I have solution in the rear wheels (on Purpose I'm sure... for weight?)
which leads me to two questions....

Are the wheels going to be shot with the fluid sitting in there for so long?

and... Is there any way to get the fluid out short of pulling the wheels / tires
apart?

 

[Soundguy]

If the tire has intact tubes.. your rims may be ok.. or if they have leaked int he past.. they may not be.. hard to tell without breaking them down.. though looking at the metal around the valve stem hole.. you can usually 'guess' as to condition.

to unload, put valve stems at 6'oclock position, jack up that wheel, and remove valve core.. have a plastic tube ready to slip over the valve stem snugly, and then have a BUNCH of 5g buckets ready to recieve the liquid.

could be cacl... which will kill plants..

or winshield washer fluid.. or antifreeze, which may or may not be toxic to animals... could also be beet juice (rimguard )... whatever it is.. you will have alot of it.

soundguy

 

[wolc123]

Nobody used beet juice or windshield wiper fluid 40 years ago when that thing last ran, so you can bet it is Calcium. Like SG says, as long as the tubes didnt leak, the rims should be fine. If it turns out that the rims are shot you wont have any problem finding replacements as the rims were the same from the 8n's all the way to the 2000/3000 series.

 

[tderrick]

On one of wheels the rust damage around the stem area is pretty
extensive... Not much on the other.

I may just pull them and take both wheels down to the co-op and
let them deal with the fluid as they break them down to take a look-see.

How much should a couple of replacement wheels run me??

How much is too much damage??

 

[Soundguy]

Too much damage is when the rim is rotted out so much that structural integrety is compromised.

Pitting and a few rust thru-s don't necescarilly condemn a rim. I have rims that had had new valve stem holes drilled, and patches from other rims welded in. You can also grind out the rusty valve stem area and then weld in a fender washer.. etc.

wire wheel the pitted areas, and then paint with an epoxy high solids primer, and then a good gloss paint.. .. should be fine after that.

if you need new rims, look at me miller tire on the internet..

soundguy

 

[tderrick]

Thanks, brother... You're a big help ....

 

[wolc123]

About 10 years ago I bought a nice set of used rear tires and rims for my Ford 2000 for $400. The rims were excellent condition, the tires about 90% and calcium filled. I think they were size 28" x 12". I would think that you could find a nice set of used tires and rims for under $600 today. I do think you would be better off repairing the original rims as SG suggests, especially on that tractor which will have more value if kept as original as possible.
There are very few of those around with under 1000 hours and I suspect it may have some serious value to a collector. I also think it will have more value with its original paint, which it probably still has most of, if it was unused and inside for that many years. After you get her going, I would be interested in what you think of that tractor compared to your 8n. Most prefer the 600's over the 8n, but I do not. The 51 and 52 8n have the most refined flathead engine Ford made while the Jubilee/600's brought in the overhead valve engines. The 51/52 8n's were actually a little better on fuel and had a significantly better power/weight ratio. The hydraulics on the n's were simpiler and more durable, although they were not "live" like the 600's. Also, due to thier far higher production numbers, parts are easier to get for the n's.

 

[tderrick]

After you get her going, I would be interested in what you think of that tractor compared to your 8n. Most prefer the 600's over the 8n, but I do not. The 51 and 52 8n have the most refined flathead engine Ford made while the Jubilee/600's brought in the overhead valve engines. The 51/52 8n's were actually a little better on fuel and had a significantly better power/weight ratio. The hydraulics on the n's were simpiler and more durable, although they were not "live" like the 600's. Also, due to thier far higher production numbers, parts are easier to get for the n's.

It will be hard for the 640 to beat my 8N... My 8N starts first time, everytime. Never breaks. Sips fuel. Runs so cool, I can place my hand
on the head without getting burned as it's running. Uses No oil.

We'll see about the 640...

The first thing I notice is the 640 has a lot more
potential to blow engine oil everywhere... Rocker arm cover, Open breather,
etc.

 

[Soundguy]

The breather has a mesh screen in it.

rvc has a gasket...

don't forget the 8n has 2 removable valve covers on the side of the block.

soundguy

 

[tderrick]

The breather has a mesh screen in it.

rvc has a gasket...

don't forget the 8n has 2 removable valve covers on the side of the block.

soundguy

I have a '48 8N... I've never seen any access to the valve train.

The 640 breather cap has a large vent hole in one side. Seems at least
some oil vapor would drift out.