Building a 24x24 pole barn for tractor

   #1  

rickyb01

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1976 Deutz 3006 1962 John Deere 1010
I'm going to build a 24x24 Pole Barn with 10' roof. Then I will add on two side sheds but this will be latter. This will all be open with just the roof. I live in South Arkansas and the most snow I have ever seen has been 8 inches on the ground. I think my ridge board will be 2x10 but what do you guys think I will need to go with for rafters and the boards that will hold up the other end of rafters where the birdmouth will be cut. I'm going to but use 5x5 as post on 8' centers. And how far apart will the rafters need to be? I would like to go 2' centers but that may not be possible.

Here is what I think
Ridge Board 2x10's
Rafters 2x6's on 2' centers
Boards nailed to 5x5 to hold up other end of rafters 2x10's

Any suggestions. Thanks Rick
 
   #2  

deezler

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Sounds like a pretty good plan to me. I take it you won't be getting this structure permitted or inspected?

Are you gonna use purlins atop the rafters? That adds some rigidity, but also more dead weight. Sheeting atop that and/or Metal roofing also stiffens things up.
 
  
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#3  
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rickyb01

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No inspection way out of town on some land my dad left me. I will use 2x4's for purlins on top of rafters to attach 36" wide metal roof. We can get second's paint metal here cheaper than the 24" barn tin. Rick
 
   #4  

KennyG

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A quick look at a span calculator looks to me like you can go with 2x6 on 16 inch centers or 2x8 on 24 inch centers. (Assuming No. 2 lumber and a 20 psf snow load.) I would probably go with the 2x8's on 24 inch centers since you are putting on purlins and tin. Whichever way you go, the ridge board would be one size larger than the rafter.
 
   #5  

rmorey

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The 2x8 - 24's probably cost the same as the 2x6 - 16's anyway.
 
  
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#6  
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rickyb01

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Thanks guys It looks like 2x8's and 24" centers is how I will go. Rick
 
   #7  

Woody65

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Good plan. If you are not building a second floor loft with ceiling/floor joists, make sure you put collar ties in. These prevent the outer walls from being pushed out and the ridge beam from sagging. Sorry if this is information you already know. Good luck and make sure to get us some pics!
 
   #8  

Xfaxman

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If it is all open you may need more bracing to the posts. A pole building normally gets braced by the walls.
PB280159.JPGPA160035.JPGPB180138.JPGPB180140.JPG

This Arbor moved so much in the wind, the builder removed the corbels, made new ones 36" long, and put them on both sides.

P3282113.JPGP3282107.JPGP3282109.JPGP3282112.JPG
 
   #9  

quicksandfarmer

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I have a 24x24 pole barn that really has a rather clever design. I figure the previous owner must have bought either a kit or plans. It has a salt box style roof where one side is longer than the other. The long side is about 18' and the framing is 2x12's on 8' centers with 2x4 purlins on 24" centers, on edge. The posts are 6x6 on 8' centers. The short side is about 6' and the rafters are 2x4's on 8' centers with the same purlins. Since the rafter spacing is the same as the post spacing the construction is super simple, the rafters are nailed to the side of the posts with pole barn nails. Since the short side of the roof carries so much less span there is only a single 6x6 pole on that side, which allows for two 12' openings, much better than three 8' openings.

It seems kind of flimsy but it has withstood New England winters and coastal hurricanes for 20 years.
 
   #10  

crbr

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good thread
 
 
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