Buying a Branson

[TractorTYMe]

I read a post on TBN here recently, if one of the DPF get clogged, the dealer techs simply take off the DPF and use hot steam to clean it out the stored soot particles. The Kukje engines have proven to be a real good reliable engine, as it has no ECM. It is mechanical injection, and only the DPF has a ECM controlled flap for when regen is prompted. I have 135h on mine, not once has it prompted for regen. But they like to run at higher rpm to avoid running "cool" above 1800rpms or pto speed on engine when working.

 

[ljjhouser]

Many of those DPF youtube videos refer to Automobile and their process. But the DPF light on a tractor simply means the particulate filter needs to run hot to burn diesel particulate. What I am about to say here is only regarding Tractor DPF.

The DPF filters and regen process seem to be an important negative factor some people and of no concern for others. The beauty of the regen process it that you can find any opinion out there that fits you needs. You will find every opinion possible.
Now that you ask, you now will have my opinion. since it is free, probably not worth much.
Since all tractor dealers I know have said - Run your diesel engine at full rpm. It is made for that and it is better for your engine. If I do that with my tractor, it is a RARE time the the tractor needs to regen. If you idle your engine a lot, then expect to regen more often. The engine needs the heat to burn particulate. If it does need to regen, it will run at full rpm to achieve heat necessary to burn particulate. But you can continue working while the process is working. You can also postpone the process. But it will eventually run at full rpm to burn so the filter can continue to work. Does it use extra fuel. Maybe. It will run at full rpm for about 20 minutes.
But, I thought Branson was the only tractor which could comply without the filter process.
It is no problem for me. My tractor works like a jewel.
If we don't like Tier 4, then we must be destined to buy older and older tractors and miss out on all the new features we all seem to want. I could say Tier 4 is only a beginning. But it is not. There was Tier 1-3 before. In a few years, we might be sayiing - I wish I had bought a Tier 4 instead of this damn Tier 5. Tier 4 is not any trouble for me.

 

[Bowmbd]

Thanks for the info. The YouTube video I saw was specifically for a Branson so maybe he was confused because he was saying not to run it over 2,200rpm but I thought running it low or idling was when you get the issues? I also thought Branson was one that didn’t have the typical filter process but I could be wrong. Back to doing more research!

 

[ericm979]

Until this year Bransons did not have the ability to do a regen. They have a low temp constant regen. That works for a large majority of owners but a few who live in cold areas and run their tractors for short periods or at low load have had problems with the DPF clogging. When that happens you can run it hard up and down the road for a while to get it hot if you have a suitable road. But unless the operating conditions change it'll clog again.

This year Branson added the ability for the operator to command a real regen. They do it differently than everyone else though- they use an exhaust valve in the tailpipe to restrict flow and keep heat in the DPF. They're still using mechanical injection. The "data recorder" that measures DPF temp and pressure differential now also runs the regen.

With the older ones like I have, you can take the data recorder off and it won't care. You can take the DPF off too, though I recommend waiting until it's a problem before doing so as you'll have already paid for it. Might as well enjoy the cleaner exhaust until the DPF actually causes a problem. Seems like the new version is a good solution- keep the same system but add the ability for a manual regen for those that need it.

I've not had a problem even though I don't always run the engine in the "green zone" on the tach (2000-2500 for the 3725). I must run it hard enough often enough for it to burn the soot off. It doesn't get all that cold here too which helps.

 

[Drewintoledo]

was going to buy a Branson but ended up with an LS. Reason was no service in my area. Something I remember was keep the radiator clean of debris they might heat up quickly. That was a few years back. Sometimes I wish I went with Branson it seemed like a better bargain at the time I was looking

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

Thanks for the info. The YouTube video I saw was specifically for a Branson so maybe he was confused because he was saying not to run it over 2,200rpm but I thought running it low or idling was when you get the issues? I also thought Branson was one that didn’t have the typical filter process but I could be wrong. Back to doing more research!

Sounds like the Youtube guy was confused. Can you post a link to the video?

The Branson uses a DOC filter that requires heat from the exhaust to burn the soot particles out of the filter mesh screens. You should run your engine in the "green zone" on the tach whenever possible.

If the filter starts to clog up, the light on the dash will start blinking, slowly at first, then progressively faster, until eventually it stays steady on. By that time it's pretty clogged and may need to be removed and "cleaned". Which I believe is done by baking it in an oversized oven at high temperatures. You will get plenty of warning time before it reaches this state, however. When the light first starts blinking, and warning you of an issue, it's not so far gone that you can't correct it by running it hard under load in the correct "green" zone on the tach.

As Eric said, new for this year, they've changed the system by adding a butterfly valve on the outlet side of the exhaust, that will close when the filter starts clogging, which will in turn raise the internal temperature inside the filter and hopefully burn off the offending soot clog. There was in previous years no way to increase the heat in the filter to try and burn off the soot. It was just passively heated by the free flowing exhaust gasses as they passed through the filter. The new system should help the rare cases when filters could not get or stay hot enough for the catalyst inside to do it's thing.

In a "worst case" scenario, the older system was *very* easy to correct by simply removing the filter and installing a muffler instead. Then disconnecting the data logger (whether you removed that part or not) would completely bypass the entire exhaust emissions system. You would effectively now have a "non-tier" tractor.

Exhaust Mod on my 3725

The new system has done more to interweave the data logger into the rest of the tractor's dash indicators, as owners with the new style system have reported that disconnecting the data logger has stopped gauges on the dash from working. I think it would require someone with the patience to parse out the wiring harness to see how it's interconnected to remove the data logger and still have all the dash indicators. The alternative would be to just leave the data logger connected, and "live with" a blinking filter light on the dash due to the removed filter.

But I think the larger majority of Branson owners with the new filter management system (with the butterfly valve) will probably not have any problems with them working correctly.

 

[Bowmbd]

Thanks for all the insight fellas, it’s much appreciated. I’d like to continue picking your brains if I can. With how minimal the price difference is between the 4215 and 3620 would it make more sense to go with more hp in the 15 series or bump up to the 20 series to gain more lifting capacity and some other added features? I’m thinking 35hp with 29 at the PTO should be enough for what I plan on doing but I’m not really sure yet until I actually get into doing things. Or would it be smarter to go with a 3015 or 3515 and use the extra money for implements? Who knew buying a tractor could be so stressful haha

 

[Bowmbd]

Sounds like the Youtube guy was confused. Can you post a link to the video?

The Branson uses a DOC filter that requires heat from the exhaust to burn the soot particles out of the filter mesh screens. You should run your engine in the "green zone" on the tach whenever possible.

If the filter starts to clog up, the light on the dash will start blinking, slowly at first, then progressively faster, until eventually it stays steady on. By that time it's pretty clogged and may need to be removed and "cleaned". Which I believe is done by baking it in an oversized oven at high temperatures. You will get plenty of warning time before it reaches this state, however. When the light first starts blinking, and warning you of an issue, it's not so far gone that you can't correct it by running it hard under load in the correct "green" zone on the tach.

As Eric said, new for this year, they've changed the system by adding a butterfly valve on the outlet side of the exhaust, that will close when the filter starts clogging, which will in turn raise the internal temperature inside the filter and hopefully burn off the offending soot clog. There was in previous years no way to increase the heat in the filter to try and burn off the soot. It was just passively heated by the free flowing exhaust gasses as they passed through the filter. The new system should help the rare cases when filters could not get or stay hot enough for the catalyst inside to do it's thing.

In a "worst case" scenario, the older system was *very* easy to correct by simply removing the filter and installing a muffler instead. Then disconnecting the data logger (whether you removed that part or not) would completely bypass the entire exhaust emissions system. You would effectively now have a "non-tier" tractor.

Exhaust Mod on my 3725

The new system has done more to interweave the data logger into the rest of the tractor's dash indicators, as owners with the new style system have reported that disconnecting the data logger has stopped gauges on the dash from working. I think it would require someone with the patience to parse out the wiring harness to see how it's interconnected to remove the data logger and still have all the dash indicators. The alternative would be to just leave the data logger connected, and "live with" a blinking filter light on the dash due to the removed filter.

But I think the larger majority of Branson owners with the new filter management system (with the butterfly valve) will probably not have any problems with them working correctly.

Thanks for all the info, you’ve been a great deal of help! I’ll see if I can’t find the video again, I was down a rabbit hole when I found it so I’m not sure what it was even called anymore.

 

[DGZRT]

I would evaluate your situation. Are you working fields ? Lifting round bails? Heavy loader work in the open ? Mowing big fields ? You need more weight and HP !

My needs are for in the woods. Tight trails That are 5 ft wide . Small food plots. Maintaining the 1/4 mile long driveway. Mowing Trails and plots . I have a 54" rider for the lawn . Moving logs and brush . My small 25 HP has not let me down yet . It's more important to have the 4wd , locking differential and 3 gears . I wanted to keep my engine simple with no Def or Regen . I will let you know in a few years if it works out but so far it's been perfect. I was told by all my friends that own tractors it's more important in the Compact series to have awesome Implements that more HP.

I'm a Newbie in the tractor arena But not working in the woods. I have a great turning radius , good ground clearance. and the tractor is one of the heaviest in its class . With just the back blade on I have not had to many problems handling 1000# logs . I'm planing on a Flail mower with Hammer blades not a brush hog . I feel the Flail will be better in the woods than a 7ft long Brush hog . My next purchase will be a Tooth bar for the bucket . Good luck ! Either way you can't loose

 

[fried1765]

Sounds like the Youtube guy was confused. Can you post a link to the video?

The Branson uses a DOC filter that requires heat from the exhaust to burn the soot particles out of the filter mesh screens. You should run your engine in the "green zone" on the tach whenever possible.

If the filter starts to clog up, the light on the dash will start blinking, slowly at first, then progressively faster, until eventually it stays steady on. By that time it's pretty clogged and may need to be removed and "cleaned". Which I believe is done by baking it in an oversized oven at high temperatures. You will get plenty of warning time before it reaches this state, however. When the light first starts blinking, and warning you of an issue, it's not so far gone that you can't correct it by running it hard under load in the correct "green" zone on the tach.

As Eric said, new for this year, they've changed the system by adding a butterfly valve on the outlet side of the exhaust, that will close when the filter starts clogging, which will in turn raise the internal temperature inside the filter and hopefully burn off the offending soot clog. There was in previous years no way to increase the heat in the filter to try and burn off the soot. It was just passively heated by the free flowing exhaust gasses as they passed through the filter. The new system should help the rare cases when filters could not get or stay hot enough for the catalyst inside to do it's thing.

In a "worst case" scenario, the older system was *very* easy to correct by simply removing the filter and installing a muffler instead. Then disconnecting the data logger (whether you removed that part or not) would completely bypass the entire exhaust emissions system. You would effectively now have a "non-tier" tractor.

Exhaust Mod on my 3725

The new system has done more to interweave the data logger into the rest of the tractor's dash indicators, as owners with the new style system have reported that disconnecting the data logger has stopped gauges on the dash from working. I think it would require someone with the patience to parse out the wiring harness to see how it's interconnected to remove the data logger and still have all the dash indicators. The alternative would be to just leave the data logger connected, and "live with" a blinking filter light on the dash due to the removed filter.

But I think the larger majority of Branson owners with the new filter management system (with the butterfly valve) will probably not have any problems with them working correctly.

The commonly referred to phrase is: BUY ENOUGH TRACTOR!
If you follow that premise you will make a good choice.

In my opinion though: If you buy one, or even two, sizes larger than you THINK you need, you will have made the BEST choice!
If you estimate too small, you will spend a good bit more money, buying two different tractors.

It is rarely said: I wish I had bought a smaller tractor!