BX 2200 no start

[NYTrainer]

Hey al! I've been reading all relative threads and still I am stumped as to why I can't get voltage to starter solenoid.
When I turn the key to 1st position (run) the indicators on dash light up and you hear the fuel pump tick. Next position is glow plug preheat and when in this position (spring loaded so have to hold key in that position) the dash preheat indicator no longer lights up and that position along with moving key to last position (start) the battery voltage is dragged down to just a few volts then to zero after 4 seconds or so.
Checked Battery and (jumper battery) both 12.6 volts.
Checked solenoid battery lug shows 12.5 volts (until key is switched to start)
Checked 30a slow blow fuse which feeds main switch good.
All grounds are good (isolated neg. cable using jumper cable from neg terminal on batt. to good chassis ground)

1. Main switch checks out good in all positions per main switch legend on schematic
2. Continuity good through safety switches from main switch (pin 50 on schematic 14 gauge wire black/white) to the solenoid.
3. The starter motor and solenoid check out good on bench test.
4. I have a starter relay to install but without adequate voltage on trigger wire to S terminal on solenoid (14 gauge b/w wire from pin 50 on main switch) it won't matter.
What can be dragging down the voltage with key turned to start (same result with and without starter motor/solenoid installed on engine)??
Shorted glow pins? They barely have any resistance (<1 ohm each) anyway normally by design.
Only other device I see in the circuit would be the voltage regulator but I don't see that dragging down voltage on key start.
My next step is to disconnect the glow plug feed from the bus bar and see if voltage is still being dragged down at the solenoid.
Any other suggestions?
Thanks

 

[Sprinklerman]

Jiggle your pto lever . Check the safety switchs .

 

[gwdixon]

Agree on the safety switches. Just a little off and it won't start...ever.

Also, 12.5 V may run everything but not have enough amps to kick over the starter. Try using a running vehicle (like a truck) with jumper cables and see what happens.

Lastly, it is amazing how much trouble a bad ground will cause. You'll get volts but no amps. Run a jumper cable from the battery negative to a bare bolt on the engine. (Remove the OEM battery cable and connect directly to the post.)

If no change, then do the same for the positive battery side. Nothing? Then try a direct connection from the truck's battery to the bolt and to the starter. Something should happen.

When my BX2200 had trouble with starting, I ran an extra long battery cable from the battery, through the firewall, and up to the bolt near the valve cover that holds the engine lifting eye. There is another wire on the OEM ground that was lengthened and also hooked to the lifting eye bolt. Starting difficulties disappeared.

Good luck.

 

[NYTrainer]

Thanks for the replies. I've already isolated the cables to rule them out, had complete circuit through safety switches to rule them out. In order for the solenoid to kick over the starter motor you need voltage at the black/white trigger wire where I, unfortunately, cannot figure out why I don't. If I get it figured out I'll post the fix.

 

[dgraves49]

fully charge the battery and take it to a auto parts store and have them load test it.

 

[KWentling]

I would guess it's going to be a bad connection somewhere. I would start at the 30 amp fuse and keep your volt meter on it and try the start switch. If you have 12 volts on both sides of the fuse with the key turned to start, go on to the next accessible point and repeat the test. You need to find the point where you loose the 12 volts. You could start testing at either end point or start point. Even though you show continuity through the safety switches you might still not have a good enough connection there to transfer the power. I don't see how the glow plug circuit (or any others) would have any bearing on the start circuit, but it won't hurt to isolate it. Hope this helps.

Kim

 

[NYTrainer]

I would guess it's going to be a bad connection somewhere. I would start at the 30 amp fuse and keep your volt meter on it and try the start switch. If you have 12 volts on both sides of the fuse with the key turned to start, go on to the next accessible point and repeat the test. You need to find the point where you loose the 12 volts. You could start testing at either end point or start point. Even though you show continuity through the safety switches you might still not have a good enough connection there to transfer the power. I don't see how the glow plug circuit (or any others) would have any bearing on the start circuit, but it won't hurt to isolate it. Hope this helps.

Kim

I'll take another crack at it tomorrow.
I may be interpreting the schematic wrong but what I see is the 30 amp fuse comes off the solenoid battery lug (12vdc) and feeds the main switch (key) at pin 30. Only when the key is turned will this 12vdc be distributed through, from pin 30 to ACC in first position, BOTH ACC and pin 19 (preheat circuit) in the second position and then to solenoid trigger pin 50 in the Start position.
The 12vdc is present at solenoid battery lug and pin 30 of the main switch "until" the key is turned past the ACC position. That's when the voltage tanks. This happens with and without the positive cable attached to the starter solenoid (rules out possible internal shorting the starter/solenoid).
My thought, though maybe incorrect, is that when the key is turned to the Start position the 12 vdc feeds the acc circuits, the glow plug preheat circuit and the trigger (pin 50). A short on the preheat circuit could drag down the battery. I know when you hold the key in the preheat position the glow plugs (pins actually) are supposed to get red hot (haven't checked or disconnected that circuit yet). There must be a timing circuit to drop those out as they're not needed once the engine starts.
I can troubleshoot a train consist (electric or diesel), automobiles, RV's etc but this little BX2200 has me wondering. I need to get a hold of the schematics for the BX2200 (it's from 2001). The one I posted I found here on another thread.
Thanks again all.

 

[bruere]

Hi Nytrainer . I have Bx25 and had similar symptoms on starting . Bat voltage was fine 12.4 v but lights and voltage gone when trying to crank . Battery was No good turned out as it had an internal short . Try with complete seperate known good battery. Remove ur battery altogether . Hope this helps .

 

[davesl708]

Hi NYTrainer,

My issue with my BX2200 was the resistance build up in the safety switch circuit. All tested fine for voltage but no amps. Install the relay and problem solved.
Another issue I had was the PTO engage lever was not making enough contact with the safety switch. Had to hold back on it to complete the circuit. Readjusted the switch and cured that.

I am going to send schematics through email. Can't seem to paste them in here. Hope they can help.

 

[davesl708]

View attachment B50102 Electrical System.pdfView attachment B50101 Electrical System.pdfView attachment B21501 Switch-Sensor.pdfView attachment B21502 Switch-Sensor.pdfView attachment A53502 Battery Schematic.pdf

Hope these help.

Been a pain to get anything to post today.