BX25 pallet forks

[rbg]

Thanks for the kind words. If I remember correctly, I took the placement for the mount point directly off the FEL bucket. In other words, I measured the distances on the bucket and just replicated them for the forks.

If that doesn't answer your question, I'll try again.

Thanks for the reply. I attached a picture (I hope) of the area that I am curious about. I was wondering what you used for this? Is it a small piece of steel pipe welded to the side of the mount for the mounting PIN to go through and a hole drilled in the side of the pipe for the clevis pin to go through? Thanks again.......

 

[check]

Thanks. I've seen forks that attach to the FEL bucket. I do not think the chain hooks were used in any way. Using FEL bucket forks would make putting them on quicker, but I am sure they could not lift as much weight. And, personally, I'd be concerned with bending the bucket where they attach from trying to lift too much weight. Good luck.

Bxpanded.com makes themm. Very quick on and off.

 

[Yooperman]

Is it a small piece of steel pipe welded to the side of the mount for the mounting PIN to go through and a hole drilled in the side of the pipe for the clevis pin to go through? Thanks again.......

That is exactly what it is. I was lucky enough to find pipe with an undersized hole so that enlarging it for the pin was fairly easy. By far the hardest thing for me to do was to drill the hole in the pipe for the clevis so that it was exactly centered so as to line up with the hole in the attachment pin.

 

[bcp]

Solid shaft collar might work:

solid shaft collar photos

Bruce

 

[RBA50]

Nice job. I need to make something like that for my B2320. Do you have an idea on how much it weighs? Would you mind sharing a few details, like material sizes you used,etc. Not necessarily the cut lengths, but things like 2x2x1/4 tubing for fork top rail mount, 3x?# C-channel for uprights and forks, etc.
Thanks

 

[RBA50]

That is exactly what it is. I was lucky enough to find pipe with an undersized hole so that enlarging it for the pin was fairly easy. By far the hardest thing for me to do was to drill the hole in the pipe for the clevis so that it was exactly centered so as to line up with the hole in the attachment pin.

I was just thinking about the problem of getting the hole lined up. Your picture made me wonder if you could start with a hole on one side of the tube, then insert the pin and use the drill bit to get the 2 holes aligned, then drill thru the other side while the pin is still in place. Seems like that would solve the problem, but I haven't tried it. You would essentially be using the pin as a drill guide.

A v block that is carefully setup on a drill press will hold round piece in place as well, and is a good place to start to get the first hole aligned. I've always found it is hard to get that first hole to start straight thru, seems like it always wants to wander a bit, even if (or maybe because) it has been center punched first. If everything is set up right the hole should go dead center thru both sides. Of course, this works best with longer pieces of stock so there is enough to clamp into the v block. Also, I think it might work better to get the hole started if a center drill is used without center punching, just rely on the setup to have the workpiece center under the bit. Center drills are short and very rigid, which helps eliminate any tendency for the bit to wander.

Sorry, I was just thinking this through and writing it out helped me to visualize. Maybe my musings will help someone else, or maybe someone will point out the fallacies of thinking. I've been without a shop for about 3 years and am getting out of practice on this stuff. Need to get a building up this year so I have a place to work again.