BX25 snowblower counterweight

[dsmiley]

Last winter, my first with this tractor and BX2750D snowblower, I used a 400 lb ballast box and it seems that a lot of the time I had trouble steering in the float position, especially in deep snow. Running in 4WD helped some but it was still a problem. I thought the weight would help with traction but I am running turfs with chains on the rear so now I'm wondering if I even need the weight. Maybe I should lighten the ballast box by a couple hundred pounds. What do the rest of you BXers do here? What's your experience using ballast or not? Thanks.

Dean

 

[leonz]

Hello Dean,

I think you need to add chains up front and
this will solve the problem as you are losing
the adhesion/traction when you leave the
snow caster in float due to its square area
laying on the ground and the front wheels
are slipping/losing traction even in four
wheel drive.

Are your rear turfs loaded with ballast?

You can spin the rears if they are not ballasted
even with a counterweight.

The snow caster and the front end are being affected by the
rear ballast box, If you have the tires loaded you will have
solved the problem and increased your adhesion.

 

[keyman1808]

I run a BX24 with the BX2750D blower with no ballast at all. I clear a paved driveway with a significant incline with no problems. It clears right down to the pavement. I'm running the R1's (could be R4's I can never remember) unloaded and no ballast. I used to leave the BH on but found the front end too light. On occasion if the wet pavement ices over it will slip or not climb the hill but a fist full of ice melt and away it goes.

 

[oldnslo]

Last winter, my first with this tractor and BX2750D snowblower, I used a 400 lb ballast box and it seems that a lot of the time I had trouble steering in the float position, especially in deep snow. Running in 4WD helped some but it was still a problem. I thought the weight would help with traction but I am running turfs with chains on the rear so now I'm wondering if I even need the weight. Maybe I should lighten the ballast box by a couple hundred pounds. What do the rest of you BXers do here? What's your experience using ballast or not? Thanks.

Dean

Is your driveway so rough that you need to operate in float. If not carry some of the weight of the blower on the tractor and it will steer much better.

 

[dsmiley]

The areas I blow are all gravel and some of it is not very smooth. I have even made new skids to raise the blower up to one inch until I get a nice base. I like the idea of raising the blower enough to put some load on the front wheels but I feel like I should be able to just put it in float and go. Having chains on, I think I'll try removing some of the weight on the rear and see how it goes. My weight is made up of those solid concrete blocks that weigh 35 lb each so I can change the weight pretty quickly. Thanks for the input guys. I appreciate the ideas.

 

[radioman]

Hello Dean,

I think you need to add chains up front and
this will solve the problem as you are losing
the adhesion/traction when you leave the
snow caster in float due to its square area
laying on the ground and the front wheels
are slipping/losing traction even in four
wheel drive.

Are your rear turfs loaded with ballast?

You can spin the rears if they are not ballasted
even with a counterweight.

The snow caster and the front end are being affected by the
rear ballast box, If you have the tires loaded you will have
solved the problem and increased your adhesion.

I disagree with chains statement. It will make it worse if he has a blacktop driveway. Only time it will help if he uses blower with snowpack on gravel drive, but it pretty tough to get a snowpack with blower like a plow can.

Is your driveway so rough that you need to operate in float. If not carry some of the weight of the blower on the tractor and it will steer much better.

Good point! I do that quite often with my plow and I imagine it will do the exact same thing with blower. Oldslo- I'd be careful with thee words though- its not the driveway that is so rough ( I knew what you meant tho, hope i didnt offend you)- its the dips and bumps, rolling road that makes the float shine:thumbsup:

 

[JasG]

My dad has a BX2200 with the front blower and turf tires. He has never had to add weight to back end or chains. He runs the blower in float all the time. He does 3-4 driveways along with his own. We live right in the snowbelt. So to get 12-14 inches of heavy wet snow is nothing.

The few times I have used it it seemed to work great as is.

Dad bought the machine new when they 1st came out, so it's been 10-11 winters.

 

[gerford]

My BX23 with a front plow and the front-mounted snow blower have been through a lot here in Colorado snow country. I tried using a rear ballast and the front end was so light because there was very little steering. Both implements work best when in the float position so there isn't a need for the rear ballast. I have chains on the rear tires with wheel spacers to give a little more room between the wheel and chassis. I've got some short steep hills and long narrow drives and the combo works great. I would not use any rear ballast because all you do is lighten the steering.

 

[PeterK]

Hi Dean,
I'm in Manchester and use a Landpride 60" rear scrape blade for counterweight with my BX2750D on my BX24. I have wheel weights but tires are not loaded. I run turf tires and have rear chains but have never installed/needed them in 4wd. All blacktop.

Hope this helps,
PeterK

 

[dsmiley]

Hey Peter, we're neighbors. From all the reading it certainly looks like I do not need the rear weight so I have removed all the concrete blocks and if it goes well, which I expect, I'll be removing the ballast box, too. If we ever get some snow, I'll let you all know how it goes. Thanks guys.