BX7326 Rear Aux. Kit (install)

[moship]

The dealer was going out of business. and a new dealership has taken over they are trying to get me one or help

Good to hear.

Perhaps you can PDF the instructions and post here.

 

[Ruger mini 30]

Well ITS DONE!! If anyone needs advice please ask!! ITs really not to bad.

 

[V1BuzzBomb]

Well. That install was a lot harder than I expected. I'm embarrassed to admit that it took me 5 hours with a few interruptions. My biggest problem was connecting the hydraulics. All the tubes had to be aligned VERY precisely, or the threads would not line up and tighten. And it was very hard to align. I had to loosen and re-tighten many of the elbows at new angles. And it was hard to loosen and tighten bolts in there, with almost no space between the bolts. None of my wrenches were really skinny enough to work on the valve. It required lots of time with many different wrenches and pliers. It would also have been nice of Kubota to label those four tubes instead of having us match a 3D bent tubes with 4 2D pictures of them.

But I got it done, and it looks very OEM. No monster valves and levers hanging off the ROPS, just Quick Disconnect goodness and two OEM levers. Next up, buy a hydraulic top link.

If you want my install advice, here it is:
The tubes you see in my pictures don't connect directly to the valve. They connect first to elbows using seated compression fittings.
Ignore the part of the instructions that tells you the order and when to install the elbows and connectors to the valve.
Instead, put the elbows on finger tight. Only tighten the two straight ones.
Now Install the valve to the tractor per the instructions. Leave it loose for a little play.
Now thread the tubes from the ROPS to the valve.
Now, working from the hardest to access forward, one at a time, line up your tubes with your loose elbows.
REMOVE the elbows that are in your way. Tighten the ones you have connected to the tubes, then replace the elbows you removed.
This sounds stupid, and maybe it is, but it's what I had to do anyways after following the instructions first. Until I loosened the elbows, nothing would align. And I DID install all the elbows at precisely the angle indicated by the manual. The tubes are each just a little unique, so you need some wiggle room.

Yes, many years ago but great write up and advise. I have a BX2360 and will likely add the kit. I see you setup prior to install. It looks like you had rubber hose where normally a hard line would have existed. Was this a form of power beyond plumbing? I created a power beyond kit by purchasing all the BX25 parts in lieu of the one hard line. I see that this hard line would be in conflict between power beyond and auxiliary remotes. It seems that both systems can be installed but the one connection for the hard line would have to be custom and usage of either or would have to be with consideration of hydraulic prioritization.

 

[AnotherBueller]

I took a 1/4" drive tall (long) thin wall socket and cut a groove in one side as wide as one face in the socket. your only tightening to a few foot pounds so the socket stayed good.
You could also use a wrench for hydraulics and grind it to the wall thickness you need, but I thought that was too much work and wouldn't give me the swing I might need.
Bob

 

[Doc Joe 237]

Well, at least you had this thread and a few others on TBN to go by. Thank Actionaj for making us all aware of it. The kit worked out great on my old BX1860, but alas, it won't work with the backhoe equipped BXs due to interference with the backhoe subframe. I had to make up an aftermarket setup on my BX25, which does not look near oem, but works. Will await your pic's and feedback on the installation. Hope you have a good array of open end and box metric wrenches, and maybe some crows feet wrenches. It gets real tight in there trying to turn a wrench.

I'm interested in your BX25 install with BH. I have the BX23s w/BH and I bought the rear remote kit from Messick's with the same understanding that the pre-bent tubes may not work due to the TLB frame. I began looking at installing it a couple weeks ago. I found the supply and return tubes to the remotes will probably work with a little change where they mount to the rops. Where I am having the problem is that scv mounts to the tank return spot that the BH return line went to. Also the lines for the P-supply and PB-power beyond would be eliminated by the new lines in the kit. I am thinking I could incorporate a tee fitting into the P & PB lines if I'm able to cut and make the necessary flares on the supplied tubes. Since there is no place to put the tank return from the BH I'm thinking to replace the hydraulic fluid dip stick/fill, and fabricate a new unit that would allow threaded return line as well as a new dip stick to check the fluid level. The fact that you stated you were able to do this on your BX25 w/BH makes me very interested how you plumbed your hydraulics to allow both the BH and Rear remotes to function???

 

[FallingGirl]

Wow! How do you fit both controls into the slot up front? I need to do this asap on my BX2230. Is there a kit for doing this because my Kubota is at the dealership right this second and they don’t know where to put the controls. Any info would be so greatly appreciated.

 

[CHDinCT]

I'm interested in your BX25 install with BH. I have the BX23s w/BH and I bought the rear remote kit from Messick's with the same understanding that the pre-bent tubes may not work due to the TLB frame. I began looking at installing it a couple weeks ago. I found the supply and return tubes to the remotes will probably work with a little change where they mount to the rops. Where I am having the problem is that scv mounts to the tank return spot that the BH return line went to. Also the lines for the P-supply and PB-power beyond would be eliminated by the new lines in the kit. I am thinking I could incorporate a tee fitting into the P & PB lines if I'm able to cut and make the necessary flares on the supplied tubes. Since there is no place to put the tank return from the BH I'm thinking to replace the hydraulic fluid dip stick/fill, and fabricate a new unit that would allow threaded return line as well as a new dip stick to check the fluid level. The fact that you stated you were able to do this on your BX25 w/BH makes me very interested how you plumbed your hydraulics to allow both the BH and Rear remotes to function???

Doc joe, not sure I follow all your issues with your install, but I made a thread on making and installing rear remotes in my BX25 way back when. Have a look and maybe it will help you out. But, I think you’d be better off not trying to convert the non-backhoe version SVC to use in a backhoe model, vs sourcing a separate, aftermarket SVC setup.

Thread 'BX25 Remote Valve Project' BX25 Remote Valve Project