Case 480ck crank pulley removal

   / Case 480ck crank pulley removal
  • Thread Starter
#11  
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glennholden211

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1970 case 480ck
The nut is a RH thread. Heat until the nut until it is nearly orange, then let it cool, so as not to distort that 1/2" square opening. I used a 3/4" breaker bar, with 1/2" adapter, and still needed a 3' cheater on it, and I'm a good sized feller. It squawked, nearly the whole way off, every time you'd make a turn. After a half dozen turns, could turn it with a 3/4" ratchet. This was on an old 310B with a 148 gasser, but still had the same problem. This was approx. 12 years ago, and resorted to good ole' Google to find the answer. Here's a link to search results for loosening that nut. https://www.google.com/search?q=D188+crankshaft+pulley+nut+removal&btnK=Google+Search&sxsrf=APq-WBukJrXj56oEaF0I1_oZc9DlMZxCBw:1645844271243&source=hp&ei=L5cZYrDGCuKrqtsPmNC3yA4&iflsig=AHkkrS4AAAAAYhmlP4OM9aXlbpqSRHGfbxCTMaqaiz7P Some suggest quenching the nut to cool it, but I just let it cool down by itself. Not down to room temp, but enough I could slap it with my fingers, and was still pretty warm. Some suggest using an impact, and to be honest, can't remember if I tried that or not, but do remember using the 3/4" drive, with 1/2" adapter, and cheater.

You may have a problem keeping the engine from rotating, I put the 310B in gear, and locked the brakes to hold the engine. If you have a torque converter, you may have to find a way to lock the flywheel, the engine compression just isn't enough.

I'm not sure if they put some sort of lock tite type material on the nuts from the factory, or what, But they can be a bear.

When it comes time to reinstall, torque the nut to 125-135 ft. lbs. I now have a '79 480C, and have the OEM repair manual in front of me, and that is the torque specs shown. Let us know how you get along with it.
Thank you for the reply and the awesome info..never even considered it might be a rh thread..
 
   / Case 480ck crank pulley removal #12  

rScotty

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Most of the world's nuts are right handed....wait..that doesn't sound right.
Let me ry it again: Most nuts are right handed. Well, duh.... of course we are. Anyway, you know what I mean.

rScotty
 
   / Case 480ck crank pulley removal
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glennholden211

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1970 case 480ck
The advice may not be what you want to hear, but here goes....

I like to do my own work and over the years I've enjoyed saving a lot of money doing it. But sometimes a job just turns into too much. When that happens, I call my local yellow tractor dealer and have his mobile mechanic make a call. It costs $250 for him just to drive out here and back, and they charge about $100/hr for his time. But there isn't much he can't do in a couple of hours. He is real good.

While he is here, I have him do some of the service I've been putting off, plus any welding and straightening that needs doing. The guy is a professional and worth the cost every time. And I can get on with things.
rScotty
I refuse to be defeated by this thing!
 
   / Case 480ck crank pulley removal
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#14  
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glennholden211

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1970 case 480ck
Most of the world's nuts are right handed....wait..that doesn't sound right.
Let me ry it again: Most nuts are right handed. Well, duh.... of course we are. Anyway, you know what I mean.

rScotty
Lol...thanks for replying!!
 
   / Case 480ck crank pulley removal #16  

panamaguy

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kubotab7001 ... IHI NX15 excavator
2 things most left handed nuts are usually marked by having little groves cut on the six high points(hard to explain but easy to see if looking at the nut) and second anytime you heat a piece of steel red hot when it cools it is smaller than before you started thus tighter in your case
 
   / Case 480ck crank pulley removal #17  

rScotty

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Rural mountains - Colorado
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Kubota M59, JD530, JD310SG. Restoring Yanmar YM165D
2 things most left handed nuts are usually marked by having little groves cut on the six high points(hard to explain but easy to see if looking at the nut) and second anytime you heat a piece of steel red hot when it cools it is smaller than before you started thus tighter in your case

Are those LH marks? Or are they the hash marks that indicate that bolt is a special alloy (6 x = grade 8)?
Although to be fair, I have seen nuts and bolts stamped "LH". Sure is handy when they do that. Easy way is just post a picture of the thread and let all those nutty TBN experts weigh in.

I disagree on it cooling smaller. I believe it will be exactly the same size when it cools to the same temperature. And that goes for anything that heat expands. If that wasn't the case, we would have a world full of full size planes with ever-shrinking jet engines and race cars with little bitty teeny-tiny exhaust valves and manifolds.....

My suspicion is that that what happens when heated is that the corrosion that is always there between the threads doesn't expand at the same rate as steel. So the threaded joint may end up easier to unscrew .... or not.... after heating. You just can't tell in advance where the corrosion is going to end up. But if the nut is stuck to start then the heating is worth the gamble - especially if you can turn it while hot. It doesn't need to be red hot, give it half that or in the range of five hundred degrees differential should do it. Any more and you'll cook the block seal.

rScotty
 
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   / Case 480ck crank pulley removal #18  

panamaguy

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kubotab7001 ... IHI NX15 excavator
Are those LH or are they the hash marks that indicate that bolt is grade 8?

I disagree on it cooling smaller. I believe it will be exactly the same size when it cools to the same temperature. If that wasn't the case, we would have a world full of full size planes with ever-shrinking jet engines and race cars with little bitty tiny exhaust valves.....

The only difference is that corrosion (usually) doesn't expand as much as steel and there is always some between any threads. So it may end up easier to unscrew .... or not.... after heating. You just can't tell in advance where the corrosion is going to end up. But if the nut is stuck to start then the heating is worth the gamble. Especially if you can turn it while hot. Not red hot, just a few hundred degrees differential should do it.

rScotty
Groves say left hand. Check with a bolt supply house next time you are in one
If you own a good set of machinist micrometers like Mitutoyo heat a small block of steel red hot and let cool. It will be smaller as the metal molecules have moved tighter. 50 years welding has taught me lots and 15 of that was in a quality machine shop
 
   / Case 480ck crank pulley removal
  • Thread Starter
#19  
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glennholden211

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1970 case 480ck
2 things most left handed nuts are usually marked by having little groves cut on the six high points(hard to explain but easy to see if looking at the nut) and second anytime you heat a piece of steel red hot when it cools it is smaller than before you started thus tighter in your case
Thank you to everyone responding...super helpful advice from everyone..gonna give it another go this weekend with victory post afterwards!
 
   / Case 480ck crank pulley removal #20  

orezok

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Bet my Astro Pneumatic 1/2" drive Thor Onyx would wind that nut right off. It makes 1500 foot pounds in reverse.
Or 1500 foot pounds might just snap the front of the crank off. Not something I’d be willing to try.
 
 
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