Case 480ck crank pulley removal

   / Case 480ck crank pulley removal #22  
OOPS! Maybe I should have started a little less! :eek::ROFLMAO::LOL:(n)
 
   / Case 480ck crank pulley removal #23  
OOPS! Maybe I should have started a little less! :eek::ROFLMAO::LOL:(n)
I will say I have not yet cranked it up all the way at 135 psi line pressure. I'm sure it will wail but have not had the need so far. It does require hig flow couplings and large diameter air hose as it's a CFM hungry impact.
 
   / Case 480ck crank pulley removal #24  
So I managed to get the nut off (parts 8 and 9 from the first post) but it looks like the the pulley - part 9 - has some sort of sleeve on which makes it impossible to pull the pulley out of the engine bay because of the depth clearance. If that makes sense. I tried scraping the seem to see if they were pressed together and couldn't really tell but it looked like it was one piece.

I am trying to access the governor and the front case also seems to be stuck pretty good. I sprayed half a can of wd-40 where the seal is (I have a new seal and oil ring already) and will try again to pry it off but there isn't much to get leverage on.

I'll snap some pictures tomorrow but just wondering if anyone encounter this or understands what I'm trying to describe lol.

I have a 480ck gas model.

Looking at the service manual it might be the oil seal pressed into the pulley but it sure seems like it's one piece. And the piece in the back side of the pulley doesn't look like an oil seal to me but I don't know what oil seals looked like in 1969.
 

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   / Case 480ck crank pulley removal #25  
Not sure how much it will help, but here is a picture of the crankshaft pulley on my old 310B w/148 spark engine. I do recall that nut and what appears to be a large washer behind it was all one piece. After finally getting that off, I was pleasantly surprised the pulley slipped right off. The big difference was this was an agricultural tractor and there was room enough to come off without removing the front end. And for the life of me, can't remember why I had to take it off, but assuming it was to replace that crank pulley seal. Note, pic is from 2010, and I've worked on a lot of stuff since then.

Here is an exploded parts diagram of the Case 148 crankshaft pulley from the backside. https://www.mycnhistore.com/us/en/c...-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6/5DCD6496-EFBE-E111-9F showing it's basically like other pulleys I've seen with the shoulder for the seal to ride on.

Just took a quick look in my service manual, although it's the diesel section, it shows the pulley coming off by hand, go figure. Without pictures seeing how much room you have to work with, if you have a large bearing separator behind that pulley and a large 2 jaw puller will get it off. I don't expect it is on there that tight, at least not like the press fit pulley's on my small IH C-113/C-123 engines.

For a great penetrant, a 50/50 mix of Acetone and any ATF works great. Works better than anything I've used off the shelf. Just have to be careful where you use it, as the Acetone will remove paint. I just bought a quart of each to try I think when I started working on the old 310B. When that was gone, I started buying Acetone by the gallon, and ATF in a 2 gallon jug at Rural King so it would always be on hand. I use a dish detergent bottle with snap lid to keep the Acetone from evaporating. It will separate in the bottle, but a quick shake will mix it up.
 

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   / Case 480ck crank pulley removal #26  
2 things most left handed nuts are usually marked by having little groves cut on the six high points(hard to explain but easy to see if looking at the nut) and second anytime you heat a piece of steel red hot when it cools it is smaller than before you started thus tighter in your case
If you heat a steel nut red hot while it is sitting on a brick or something it may indeed shrink. Then again it may not. If the nut is one bolt and heated red hot it will not shrink and end up tighter when it cools. In my 40 years plus as a machinist and welder I have NEVER seen a nut shrink tighter upon cooling. No surprise either.
Eric
 
   / Case 480ck crank pulley removal #27  
So I managed to get the nut off (parts 8 and 9 from the first post) but it looks like the the pulley - part 9 - has some sort of sleeve on which makes it impossible to pull the pulley out of the engine bay because of the depth clearance. If that makes sense. I tried scraping the seem to see if they were pressed together and couldn't really tell but it looked like it was one piece.

I am trying to access the governor and the front case also seems to be stuck pretty good. I sprayed half a can of wd-40 where the seal is (I have a new seal and oil ring already) and will try again to pry it off but there isn't much to get leverage on.

I'll snap some pictures tomorrow but just wondering if anyone encounter this or understands what I'm trying to describe lol.

I have a 480ck gas model.

Looking at the service manual it might be the oil seal pressed into the pulley but it sure seems like it's one piece. And the piece in the back side of the pulley doesn't look like an oil seal to me but I don't know what oil seals looked like in 1969.
Here are the pics. This pulley won't come out as it is. I'm hoping that the change in weather/temps will help pop the case off. If this happens I think it all can be removed as one piece.
 

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   / Case 480ck crank pulley removal #28  
Not sure how much it will help, but here is a picture of the crankshaft pulley on my old 310B w/148 spark engine. I do recall that nut and what appears to be a large washer behind it was all one piece. After finally getting that off, I was pleasantly surprised the pulley slipped right off. The big difference was this was an agricultural tractor and there was room enough to come off without removing the front end. And for the life of me, can't remember why I had to take it off, but assuming it was to replace that crank pulley seal. Note, pic is from 2010, and I've worked on a lot of stuff since then.

Here is an exploded parts diagram of the Case 148 crankshaft pulley from the backside. https://www.mycnhistore.com/us/en/c...-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6/5DCD6496-EFBE-E111-9F showing it's basically like other pulleys I've seen with the shoulder for the seal to ride on.

Just took a quick look in my service manual, although it's the diesel section, it shows the pulley coming off by hand, go figure. Without pictures seeing how much room you have to work with, if you have a large bearing separator behind that pulley and a large 2 jaw puller will get it off. I don't expect it is on there that tight, at least not like the press fit pulley's on my small IH C-113/C-123 engines.

For a great penetrant, a 50/50 mix of Acetone and any ATF works great. Works better than anything I've used off the shelf. Just have to be careful where you use it, as the Acetone will remove paint. I just bought a quart of each to try I think when I started working on the old 310B. When that was gone, I started buying Acetone by the gallon, and ATF in a 2 gallon jug at Rural King so it would always be on hand. I use a dish detergent bottle with snap lid to keep the Acetone from evaporating. It will separate in the bottle, but a quick shake will mix it up.
DJ,

Thanks for the info and especially the penetrant info. I will try this in the future. I just talked to a farmer buddy and he explained how the sulfur that used to be in 'acid rain' was beneficial to his crops. Now it costs an arm and a leg. Touchy subject I'm sure but these bits of information a priceless.

I bought 2 2-jaw pullers recently online and neither will work for my situation. I intended to send 1 back but for the nominal costs I think I will use them at some point in the future. Good to have on hand.

Thank you for the link but it doesn't seem to be working for me. See if the pictures I posted help explain my dilemma better than I could explain. I could rig up a punch of sorts but I still swear that pulley and 'sleeve' are one piece. As mentioned, I might have to remove the front end. This 2-3 year project might take a decade if this continues!

Thanks again.
 
   / Case 480ck crank pulley removal #29  
If you heat a steel nut red hot while it is sitting on a brick or something it may indeed shrink. Then again it may not. If the nut is one bolt and heated red hot it will not shrink and end up tighter when it cools. In my 40 years plus as a machinist and welder I have NEVER seen a nut shrink tighter upon cooling. No surprise either.
Eric
Thanks Eric. I first used propane then MAP and then a new to me acetylene torch. My buddy gave me 2 minute tutorial on how to use it and then when I actually went to use I had uTube on replay. I'm handy but never messed with popping noises and serious fire. A bit frightening and I don't look forward to messing with that puppy again. I didn't get anything quite red hot but I did heat the pulley with one hand while I prayed with the other. Cracking that nut wasn't all that bad.

I put it in gear and had to block the wheels and I also engaged the PTO and put a monster pipe wrench on the PTO to stop it from spinning. I was actually moving the tractor with the big cheater bar but it let go fairly easily after all of that.

I'm not a machinist or welder - just a DIY'er so I learn as I go.

Thank you for the info.
 
   / Case 480ck crank pulley removal #30  
I will have to re-tap some of the threads on that pulley. I've only recently learned that there are actual 'repair' taps vs. new taps. So much to learn.
 
 
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