Caught my Kubota safety electrons napping

[JRobyn]

Now that it's finally turning too cold outside to work, I decided to try to finally install my rear hydraulics. Got the tractor snuggled up behind the garage and pulled the seat/mount off to access the hydraulics. Of course, right after that, FIL walks over and asks, "hey, our heat pump installers asked if you'd bring over a bucket of gravel to put under the compressor pad".

I think some of you here on TBN have mentioned before that the seat/mount assembly is REALLY HEAVY. So to avoid having to wrangle it back on, I just cut a chunk of 2x10 about 18" long to span the hole where the seat was. All good! Tried to start it - no go. I had disconnected all the wiring from the PTO switch. Reconnected that, started up - all good!

Now I expected with the seat presence switch disconnected that it either wouldn't start or wouldn't move, but it DID! I got about 50 ft down the driveway before the safety electrons woke up and shut it down cold. Right in the middle of the road with trees on both sides so no one could get around. Easily started back up, but as soon as I touched the HST pedal, it shut off again. Made a little jumper out of about 18g solid copper wire and jammed that down across 2 of the 3 connectors on the seat switch connector. Still no go. I picked the wrong two connectors AND didn't blow a fuse or let out any magic smoke! :dance1: Changed to the other pair of connectors and it both starts and goes! I have to hold a little pressure down on the jumper so it doesn't fall out of the connector. Makes it a little challenging to also steer and operate the joystick. Especially while sitting on a board a foot below the normal operating position.

I am left with delivered gravel, but no theory as to why the safety electrons did not work at first, and then woke up 50 ft later.

 

[dfkrug]

As your tractor gets older, more of these interlock switches will become flakey.

All my HST Deeres had 3-pin seat presence safety switches, before they got jumpered
and disabled. IMO, HST is its own safety.

 

[jimjumper]

First time I turned the key on my Yanmar, I hadn't got the manual in the mail yet so I didn't know there was a clutch safety switch. it started right up and I drove it to my shed to complete some more work on it since it hadn't been run in 6 years. I didn't find out till later that the safety switch had been improperly installed and it shouldn't have started at all!

 

[tvman]

Just curious how many outlets you're adding. I installed a third outlet this year on my 4330. I know all too well how heavy that seat is.

Keep us informed on your install, especially if adding a third valve.

 

[JRobyn]

I'm adding three. Really only need T&T (2) but why not, while I'm in there. Got all 3 valves with detent too, just because.

Because of TBN, I was forewarned about just how heavy the seat was, so I got the wife to help (she's a LOT stronger than me). We still managed to skin some paint.

 

[tvman]

I hope your install goes smoother than mine. Here are some issues I faced.

My 4330 already had 2 rear valves so I was attempting to add the third without removing the original valves. As I recall, you need to remove the 3pt hitch lever and you need to drive the roll pin out. Never did find it after taking it out so you might want an extra on hand. Believe it was 3/16 pin.

Are you planning on removing the main valve body and installing the 3 remote valves as a unit?

 

[JRobyn]

Right now, I have the whole 3-valve set and hydraulic block as an assembly, and I HOPE to be able to wriggle it in that way without any disassembly. Of course, it won't be possible, and I'll need to install each piece one-at-a-time while trying to properly fit those o-rings in between each layer of the valve sandwich.

 

[tvman]

Right now, I have the whole 3-valve set and hydraulic block as an assembly, and I HOPE to be able to wriggle it in that way without any disassembly. Of course, it won't be possible, and I'll need to install each piece one-at-a-time while trying to properly fit those o-rings in between each layer of the valve sandwich.

Yep, that's what happened to me. Put some grease on the o rings to hold them place. Then you will probably find out that the three bolts will be too long.

I had to drill three holes in my fender to let the bolt heads extend out toward the tire. I eventually used the plasma cutter to cut a section of my fender out.

Also you will probably need your wife's help again to support the hoses and outlet ports to get everything lined up. Good luck!

 

[tvman]

JRobyn, got any updates on your valve installation?

 

[JRobyn]

I got everything stripped down and pressure washed all the "valve" areas about a week ago when it was tolerably warm. Since then, way too cold. Need to make sure everything is totally dried!

I believe it may be possible to work the valve assembly sans the levers and bracket, in from the bottom without having to remove the 3pt control lever.