change steering clutch on chinese dozer 1995 JLW-D2

[markrawlins]

Hi Mark Rawlins here, I have a 1995 JLW-D2 that I need to repair

and I made the mistake of lending it to a friend, who had a problem with it and took it apart, and I finally got all the pieces back -- and a year later I finally got it rebuilt and running -- Sort of

MY PROBLEM, the left steering clutch will not disengage, when I started the dozer and checked the Oil it was completely dry, so I assume the clutch assembly has basically "siezed up" I have the owners manual that show all the parts,

MY QUESTION, does anyone know how I get to the clutch assembly to take it apart? I assume I have to take off the track and the drive sprocket? Is that right?View attachment JLW-D2 2.pdfView attachment JLW-D2 dozer.pdf

 

[Bob Rooks]

First, your dozer is a Guilin that was manufactured by them prior to the sale of the company to Yuchai, but they have remained fundamentally unchanged, save for some small refinements and the addition of a three cylinder engine and a hydraulic shuttle clutch.
One of the faults in the design of the machine is the lack of venting for final drives, steering clutch/brake compartments, bevel gear case/transmission, and engine clutch compartment. The steering clutch compartments have 1/2" pipe plug drain holes which should be removed and inspected periodically for condensation water, heavy gear oil from the final drives, or lighter gear oil from the bevel gear compartment to signify leaking seals (Yes, they should be dry). They should also be replaced with a screen for long term storage to prevent condensation build up - and rusting of clutch plates and discs.

Disclaimer: I use generic American colloquialisms and bulldozer terminology instead of "Chinglish".
To your question - Yes, your assumption is correct (to do it properly without potential damage to the machine). Remove the ROPS. Drop the wishbone and back out of it. Block up the tractor's chassis and drop the track and roll it off the front idler. Drop the swing frame and move it out of the way. Remove or otherwise suspend the left or right saddlebag platforms. Remove the sprocket - this is where a heavy duty transmission jack and a cement floor comes in handy. Bolt sprocket flange to uprights on transmission jack. Remove final drive and steering clutch compartment from bevel gear case. If all goes well the clutch should separate and roll right out. Then you can proceed to disassemble the clutch pack. Take pictures for yourself as you go. I know, easy for me to say.........

 

[markrawlins]

Bob,

Thanks so much for your help, so I have a few questions,

1. When you say drop the wishbone I'm not sure what your mean?
2. I assume to get the track off I need to take out one of the connector pins and split the track?
3. i'm not sure what the swing frame is so I don't understand this instruction "Drop the swing frame and move it out of the way."
4. since the clutch plates won't release its possible that they are still fine, but I assume I should replace the seals while I have it apart. Do you know who would have the parts, and whether the part numbers in the Guilan manuals are something someone could look up from -- You said that Guilan was taken over by Yuchai, do you have any idea how long the steering and main clutch assemblies stayed the same as the 1995 Guilan.

Thank you for your help, I am happy to pay you for the time you spend helping me.

Mark

 

[Bob Rooks]

Bob,

Thanks so much for your help, so I have a few questions,

1. When you say drop the wishbone I'm not sure what your mean?
The "wishbone" is that U-shaped frame that the dozer blade attaches to. Block it up where it attaches to the swing (track) frame. You'll have to disconnect and cap off the hydraulic lines that go to the blade tilt cylinder. The lift cylinders can remain on the blade lift arms but disconnect the ram end from the wishbone.

2. I assume to get the track off I need to take out one of the connector pins and split the track?
Correct. Find a link close to the sprocket so you don't have a lot of track hanging out the back.

3. I'm not sure what the swing frame is so I don't understand this instruction "Drop the swing frame and move it out of the way."
The "swing" frame is the track frame that has one top carrier roller and four or more bottom rollers that ride on the track. It swings (pivots) on the cross shaft that is connected to the chassis. You may have to disconnect and cap off the hydraulic lines that go to the lift cylinders (I don't know how much extra hose you have).

4. Since the clutch plates won't release its possible that they are still fine, but I assume I should replace the seals while I have it apart. Do you know who would have the parts, and whether the part numbers in the Guilin manuals are something someone could look up from -- You said that Guilin was taken over by Yuchai, do you have any idea how long the steering and main clutch assemblies stayed the same as the 1995 Guilin.
They are still basically the same. There was a change in the steering clutch packs in the late '90's. They went from riveted friction media (kinda like automotive brakes) to a sintered bronze disc, which turned out to be more problematic on machines that weren't maintained. The good news is the newer discs and plates can be used with the older drums and splined shafts. If I recall there are more of the new discs and plates to compensate for the difference in thickness. You won't know what you have until you get in there.

Thank you for your help, I am happy to pay you for the time you spend helping me.
Hahaha. No worries, glad to help. That's why some dealers hate me.

You will have to contact them for parts availability. Some of the parts sources are:

Browse Parts by Category

Demo NorTrac Tractors | Northern Tool

Jinma Tractor Dealer & Mahindra Tractor Dealership | Best DEALS HERE | Affordable Tractors

 

[markrawlins]

I have taken some time off to deal with a bout of pneumonia, but now I am ready to start again. I am ready to unbolt the final drive, and I am pretty sure I understand where I need to do this but I have attached a photo with some black lines pointing to the bolts that I think I need to take off, could you let me know if that is correctView attachment Kitty cat steering clutch photo.pdf

 

[Bob Rooks]

Yes, those are the ones. Sorry to hear of your bout with pneumonia. Hope you are doing well now.

 

[markrawlins]

Bob, Thanks again for your help.

Mark

 

[markrawlins]

Bob,

I checked with the 3 dealers and none of them carry this clutch, Circle G had one sort of similar but not the same. So I am assuming my best path forward is to try to find a company that will reline the clutch plates, and sandblast the parts to get the rust off of the.

The biggest problem I have is we cracked the outer compression plate, so I am wondering about finding a good welder who welds cast iron, and a machine shop who can turn the face of it -- Do you have any other ideas?

 

[Bob Rooks]

Bob,

I checked with the 3 dealers and none of them carry this clutch, Circle G had one sort of similar but not the same. So I am assuming my best path forward is to try to find a company that will reline the clutch plates, and sandblast the parts to get the rust off of the.

The biggest problem I have is we cracked the outer compression plate, so I am wondering about finding a good welder who welds cast iron, and a machine shop who can turn the face of it -- Do you have any other ideas?

So you have the older style clutch plates with the riveted friction media, correct? I think you can use the newer clutch discs as long as the stack height remains the same as the old, and the spline count is also the same. You may have to purchase one or two extra plates and discs.
I have always had good luck with brazing cast iron. A good machine shop should be able to do the whole job for you.

 

[markrawlins]

Ok, I think I am getting close -- but, I can't get the inside pressure plate off of the machine I found a diagram on a previous thread that showed the parts,
and how they connected, but mine seem to be a little different I am trying to figure out if the hub should just come of, or if I need to take out the multi-toothed Washer, or nut, or whatever it is before it will come off?

Because right now it doesn't want to come off, Also, as I said I saw the diagram of the clutch parts on a previous post you did, is there somewhere I can get a copy of that manual?