Change to Syn

   / Change to Syn #1  

Bob_In_MN

Gold Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2003
Messages
262
Location
MN
Tractor
JD 4010
I know this question has been asked in some form relative to tractors, but I have a little different situation.

Purchasing a late 90's full size van (Ford E150) 8 cylinder.

It will pull a trailer from time to time. It will be used once per week for a 50 mile round trip and the rest of the trips will be highway typically totaling 500 miles or so. Total miles per year will be less than 10,000. The only regular use will be the weekly trip. The other (longer trips) will be weekends. We might use it every weekend for a month and then it may sit for a month. When not in use, it will be parked behind the pole barn inside a temp shelter (the kind you buy at Menards). If it doesn't have a block heater--one will be installed.

2 Questions

1. Is the nature of our trips/usage worth going Synthetic? My motor home and truck are easy decisions as every time I'm behind the wheel I'm asking a lot of them.

Secondary question--does Synthetic offer more protection in cold (below zero) start situations.

2. Most of the vans I'm looking at have about 50,000 miles on them. Is there any problem with switching over to a synthetic at this point in the engines life?

Thanks in advance.

Bob
 
   / Change to Syn #2  
<font color="red">2. Most of the vans I'm looking at have about 50,000 miles on them. Is there any problem with switching over to a synthetic at this point in the engines life?
</font>

I was listening to a radio program on the radio Saturday morning called talking tractors(ok was really cars). This topic came up. It was Max Beaver's opinion not to change to synthetic on an older engine. He said you will develope leaks.
He agreed it was a far better oil, but, use it right after new engine break-in.
 
   / Change to Syn
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Thanks Steve

I thought I remembered something about that, but I couldn't find it in any of the threads. Looks like I'll stick with the regular.

Bob
 
   / Change to Syn #5  
There is a site called bobistheoilguy, that you can find a lot out about it. I know I have read on it that it wouldn't leak unless it already leaked, I really don't know, as I don't think the price is worth it. There is even some question if its any better, than regular oil in the long run. People get a lot of miles out of both. They say you can go longer without changeing but I understand in Europe, they go a lot longer than we do with regular oil and it doesn't seem to hurt them. I may start a little better in cold weather, but if you are going to have a heater, that won't matter much. I change my oil at 5,000 miles and have good luck with that, some say 3,000.
 
   / Change to Syn #6  
It is up to you. I love synthics because of the protection and extended drains. I use it in ALL my equipment (BX22, Echo trimmers) my Suzuki GSX-R1100, Lexus ES300 and wifes Mercedes ML-420.

To save time, money and extra protection I would go with it. Even with less miles per year it will still protects more against acids and water. Usually the TBN is high and it will protect for a great deal longer. Do an oil test (cheap) to see.

If you feel the (1) fill per year or slightly shorter, then do not use synthetic. So people do not like it and some do. It is up to you.

Some people like Fords and other Dodge.

It WILL be better in the winter. Buy some regualr oil and synthetic oil and put in freezer. Take out the next day and try to pour out the regular one. Good luck.

Don't forget a good filter too.


I only put about 1,000 miles on my Suzuki GSX-R1100 pushes over 140 HP and I will pay the extra money for the synthetic oil. The enigne runs VERY hot and get ridden hard (since they are designed for it). So for about $15 more per year (about 4 QTS at $5.50 each) for oil I will use it instead of killing, the rings, cam, valves, gears etc. Your call.
 
   / Change to Syn #7  
Don't woory about leaks when changing to synthetic -- as long as it is not leaking now it will be fine.....

Another thing to consider when changing to a good quality true synthetiic oil: Say you get 15 MPG with that van, and drive 10,000 miles as you estimate. That's 667 gallons of gas/year. If you can save 3% on fuel costs with the synthetic, that's 20 gallons of gas saved per year. The cost of 20 gallons of gas will just about pay for your oil!

Also, I agree that the synthetic will pump much better in cold weather....

Dave
 
   / Change to Syn #8  
I remember reading on the bobistheoilguy site where Bob said once that for most users synthetic wasn't that much better, than the regular oils. And he is an expert on oils. He says its in the additives and some of the regular oils have just as good of additives as the synthetic or normal use. So except for cold starts synthetic would probably be better, if it wasn't you said you were going to use a heater. And if you drive it to say work and leave in 8 to 10 hours it will still start in the dead of winter, with regular oil.
 
   / Change to Syn #9  
Might as well jump in here with the age old question.... when do you make the switch from "break in" oil to the synthetic? I am getting my BX 22 this week and am considering the synthetics, but don't know much about the brands, weights, etc. I started turning wrench's too early in life and gave it up years ago.... now all this new stuff is "foreign' to me. How much can you extend the oil changes if you use the synthetic? So much to learn and so little time to learn it.... In my day, the oil can was metal and you pushed the can opening spout into it...... today they are plastic and have twist off tops...... all this new fangled stuff is confusing to an old timer!!!!! Actually, I am not that old, just feel that old.... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
   / Change to Syn #10  
Junkman -
I changed my break-in oil at around 30 hours. Now has around 70 hours and uses zero oil and it quieter at startup.

As you know I use a synthetic oil. I like Amsoil since it is the best bang for the dollar. I was going to use L.E., but it is more money for a non-synthetic. Some like Mobil 1 but it is not a 100% sythetic because of the basestock.

Never the less, I use the 15w-40 oil in the BX. So far at almost 40 hours it still looks brand new and feels new. I think that the 15w-40 has a better additive package then regular SAE 30. I am going to do an oil test this fall to see how the engine is doing (wear wise). Check for metal, fuel, TBN, etc. I do this since I like to know before something goes wrong. I did this in my old Powerstroke and hence, they need to change some parts of the glow system. It had a lot of fuel in the oil.

I only do oil changes once per year no matter what. Either 10 hours or a 200 hours. Same with all vehicles I own. Been doing it since 1993 with zero problems.

I love synthetic but I do not buy the mileage increase deal. I also put synthetic hyd fluid in and Series 2000 gear fluid in. All set for winter now. J With synthetic oils you do not need an engine block heater unless like 2o to 30 below.

Also used 15w-40 in my old Deere with no problems.


I also had read bobistheoilguy but his recommendations change like the wind.
 

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