Changing Hydraulic Filters w/o Changing Fluid

[Gordon Gould]

On my M5640 I have to change the hydraulic filters once between Hydraulic Oil changes. The filters are at the bottom of the sump so I have to drain the oil and then put it back in after the filters are changed. I back to the top of a bank and place my oil pan connected to a 10' pvc pipe down to my clean buckets. The system holds 10 1/2 gallons so I partially fill 3 buckets. I cut a hole in an old pan and used a standard shower drain for the pipe connection. When I'm done I use a rattle siphon hose to replace the oil I drained out. It leaves less than 1/2" in the bottom of the bucket. Every thing is easy to handle and no mess.







It is normal for newer Kubotas I guess but still disconcerting seeing this much crud on the filter magnets but it is way less this second change than it was the first filter change.





On a side note I have a gear drive transmission so I see no problem and have not had any issues using Rotella HD rather than Kubota Super UTD ?? even though I run my tractor all winter in below zero F weather.

gg

 

[wagne223]

Have you tried changing the filters without draining the sump?

I dont have an M series but the L series filters are also down low. When changing, I just have the new filter ready, loosen and drop the old filter and quickly install the new one. Less then a quart lost including what is in the old filters.

Some guys plug the vent and rig a shop vac to the fill hole and only loose a few drops.

Just curious if the M design is different then the L.

 

[Gordon Gould]

Have you tried changing the filters without draining the sump?

I dont have an M series but the L series filters are also down low. When changing, I just have the new filter ready, loosen and drop the old filter and quickly install the new one. Less then a quart lost including what is in the old filters.

Some guys plug the vent and rig a shop vac to the fill hole and only loose a few drops.

Just curious if the M design is different then the L.

Well I just followed the manual. And I do have a L3010 that I change the filter on the fly w/o draining but taking some measurements I see there are some big differences. The center of the filter on the L3010 is about 1 1/2" below the top of the oil in the sump (site window level) but the center of the M5640 filters are about 6" below the top of the oil in the sump so there is 4 times the head in the M5640 plus the M5640 has a much larger filter nipple than the L3010. It was worth looking at but not something I want to try especially with my system being so easy.

gg

 

[ruffdog]

Using the pcv pipes and gravity, it was looking like a maple syrup operation. At least you didn't have to cook down the oil before you put it back in the tractor!

 

[orezok]

You could try jacking up one side of the tractor until the fluid level is below or at a minimum above the filter and do the "quick change". In a static condition you can get the tractor to about 30 degrees without issue.

 

[Gordon Gould]

Using the pcv pipes and gravity, it was looking like a maple syrup operation. At least you didn't have to cook down the oil before you put it back in the tractor!

I never thought of it like that but you are probably right - buckets and pipes are in my genes.

gg

 

[Redlands Okie]

 

[bigtiller]

I like that odd shaped tin bucket, it looks homemade. Did you lay it out and break it?

 

[snymat68]

I like that odd shaped tin bucket, it looks homemade. Did you lay it out and break it?

It doesn't look broken. May have been bent with a BRAKE though. ;-)

 

[attract her]

GG #1

I'm not sure I'm getting a clear picture of your situation.

" I have to change the hydraulic filters once between Hydraulic Oil changes. " GG

So you're at it often enough for it to be routine?

" crud on the filter magnets but it is way less this second change than it was the first " GG

Not sure what's going on there.
Might some shavings from the factory have gotten into the fluid circuit, and not actually indicate accelerated machinery suicide in your rig?

No doubt large-size particles can do great harm to engine tight tolerances.
But finer particles are not risk free.
Our submarines use centrifuges to remove such particles, which otherwise can remain suspended in the fluid.

It's YOUR coin-toss. Save some cash by not changing both filter & fluid. Or lose a bundle on expensive repairs due to having changed one, but not both.

Something else to consider:
You are right of course that physical solid foreign material is a danger to your equipment. But fluids reaching their life expectancy (no matter what the book says) is also risky. The obvious example, such fluids can develop corrosives which can accelerate wear.

You know the risks. 'tup to you.