Chop Saw Reccomendations

   / Chop Saw Reccomendations #81  

BukitCase

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Mickey, all the 10-12" steel demon blades I've seen spec maximum rpm at 1800 (same as most dry cut saw blades) - I did your same experiment several years ago, I too was amazed at the results...
Til about the 25th or 30th cut, when it'd quit cutting AT ALL -

So finally last year I bought the saw they were INTENDED for, an EVOSAW380 - not quite as versatile as a wood chop saw (no bevel cuts, just miter) but it at least TRIES to contain the chips. The "escapees" get handled with a magnetic sweeper. The plus - original blade is still sharp after about 100 cuts... Steve
 
   / Chop Saw Reccomendations #82  

ArlyA

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I used abrasive blade chop saws X years ago and glad they are gone. Today, its all cordless band saws and love them. We mostly use makita and they rock for $325. (do use regular band saws and ironworkers as well) If I had to buy one for home use, it would be a cordless band saw.
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   / Chop Saw Reccomendations #83  

Smokeydog

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I got a Jancy cold cut saw last year for under $400. It has its place with all the other bandsaws and plasma cutter. Spent another $50 on MK Morse vise jaw inserts. Holds work better for longer blade life. Cuts fast, clean and accurate. No dust or smoke hazards. Easily paid for itself after a custom small metal building and hand railing job in time savings.

Still on original blade after hundreds of cuts. Getting duller now after cutting some 5.5” SS 304 tubing recently, my fault. Still cutting 2x2x11ga square tubing easily.

Don’t have experience in different blades and sharpening yet. So far been impressed. Highly recommend the vise jaw inserts and watching MK Morse cutting video to get the most out of a cold cut saw.
 
   / Chop Saw Reccomendations #84  

AHNC

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I had the Makita abrasive and when I went to the Evo 14” I gave the abrasive saw so I would never be tempted to use it again. I’ve done a lot of 2, 3 &4“ sq tube and smaller pipe sizes up to 2”. The evo has been clean cutting consistent. Yes, I confirm angles, but I’d do that anyway. I lost a tooth on my first blade. I think it was my own fault. I was hasty in withdrawing the blade and think the contact against the material blew that tooth off. The weakest link, so to speak. Now, I make the cut and let the blade stop before withdrawing it. So far so good. I have horiz BS, plasma, torch, Porta-band and Evo. Evo is the best for my hobbyist work. I will say I have gotten great usage out of the Perta-band since adding the Swag Off-road mounting plate. It turns it into a vert BS
 
   / Chop Saw Reccomendations #85  

MoArk Willy

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   / Chop Saw Reccomendations #86  

MinnesotaEric

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I simply put a metal cutting blade into my 14" Ridgid abrasive saw and called it good. I also have a 8" metal cutting Milwaukee skills thingy, a plasma cutter and my acetylene torch.
 
   / Chop Saw Reccomendations #87  

ROUSTABOUT

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Most welding doesn't require nice cuts anyway.

I just have a junky off shore thing. Fold away guard was the first thing to go. Frustrating when the blade gets smaller though and you didn't quite make your cut, plus less speed as it gets smaller.
I put a block and raise metal to use that blade up.
 
   / Chop Saw Reccomendations #88  

ROUSTABOUT

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I've got both but I think you'll be happy with a cold cut if you're welding. Go slow on angles so blade don't wander. An abrasive might be a good start because cold cuts are expensive. And blades are high.
 
   / Chop Saw Reccomendations #90  

Tinhack

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Once you go band saw, you'll never go back. I use coolant. If it fits into the 7x10 clamp/vise, it gets cut on the band saw. Turn it on and walk away. It shuts off when the cut is done. The only problem I've had is space for the in-feed and cutoff area. (Small shop)

Get one with coolant or add your own. Beats having to stand there squirting juice. It cuts faster too.
 
 
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