Compressor

ZJ_HR · Feb 6, 2005

Well, decided to spend some money, and improve my tools collection.
So, I need your advice how to best spend my hard earned money.

After experience with small and cheap (fortunatelly sold /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif), I want to buy a compressor which will last (my lifetime /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif I hope), and will satisfy all of my needs: air grinder (20.000 rpm - high air consumer), air rachet, spray gun, blowing gun etc.

BTW, one of tools I want in future is plasma cutter, and compressor must be good enough to supply it with air.

Share, please, your experiences with me; machines you have, number of cylinders, 1 or2 stage, HP, flow, pressure, tank volume etc ...

mark777 · Feb 6, 2005

ZJ,

I currently have an IR 7.5 HP-230V 1phase 80 gallon commercial grade compressor. It is married to 60 gallon Porter Cable tank (and compressor), giving me 140 gallons of volume. You can do much better price wise, but I elected to buy ONE LAST TIME. The system has been up and running for 2 years, and I regret nothing about the purchase.

Regardless of your purchase, A Belt driven, 2 stage pump and high volume tank (60 gallons minimum), either horizontal or vertical (saves space) will do what you require.

The absolute worst and over rated are diaphrgam style compressors, which IMHO are fine for blowing up small tires, air mattresses, etc. but have a very short lifetime.

The screwdrive compressors I have no hands on experience with, but it is the latest technology....compared to 90 year old motor-belt-pump driven compressors.

Hope this helps, Regards,

Mark

LarryRB · Feb 6, 2005

I use to paint trucks and do minor body work.. When you start with DA's and straight air files and the likes,, the most critical thing is SCFM at 90.. You can get a cheap compressore, 80 gallon two stage and like most, they put out 17 SCFM... You can get a decent IR model, 80 gallon two stage that puts out 25 SCFM.. If you have three phase power at the house, you can get a horizontal 120 gallon IR that puts out 37 SCFM at 90.. Sears, Tractor supply and the rest of them sell by advertising PSI.. (This eveready battery powered diaphram compressor puts out 100PSI) if you want to believe this.... SCFM is what makes or breaks a good compressor especially when using air tools.

mark777 · Feb 6, 2005

LarryRB,

Thanks, probably one of the most important features I forgot to mention. I am running close to 30 SCFM, and my cylce times are about 9 minutes with a 10" air polisher @ 90lbs at wide open. It will 'ice up' before the compressor kicks in.

Mark

JimR · Feb 6, 2005

I have 2 compressors. One is in the barn. That one is a 1960's American Kellog 80 gallon, 200 psi, horizontal tank, 5HP single phrase, 2 stage that I bought back in 1978-79. The motor and compressor were just rebuilt and I think I paid $800.00 for it. It has 22 CFM if I remember correctly. I cannot run it out of air regardless of what type body tool I have run on it. This compressor has never broken down on me. The other is in my garage. It is a more modern Devilbiss single phase 6.5 HP, 175 psi, 2 stage, 80 gallon vertical tank from BJ's Warehouse. This one ran me around $8-900.00. It fits nicely under the stairway leading to the second floor of my garage. I think it is 17 or 19 CFM's. This one is marginal in my opinion and works hard to keep up with me. I have never run it out of air regardless of what tools I have used with it. I did just replace the motor as it burnt up on me. I bought this one back in 1993. I was a little upset about the motor burn up. I use this compressor about 6-8 hours a week. I figured that it should not have burnt up considering the limited use it gets. I replaced that Century motor with a Baldor motor. They are #1 as far as I am concerned in small motors. Shop around before you waste your hard-earned money on an inferior product. Buy bigger than you need to. You do not want your compressor working 100% of the time trying to catch up to you working. There are deals out there on older garage type compressors like the one I have in my barn. These are what I call real compressors made to last a lifetime. The compressors are made of cast iron, or at least the head is. They are big and put out more air than you will ever use. Do not buy a single stage unit. Look for a unit that puts out at least 19 cfm at 90psi. The higher the cfm's at 90. The less the compressor has to work to keep up woth you. Less work = longer life.

EastTexFrank · Feb 6, 2005

I don't mean to hijack this thread but I'm looking to upgrade my compressor in the near future too and I found the advice given here interesting. During my research, I notice that IR extends their warranty if you purchase a "starter kit" along with the compressor. Excuse my ignorance but I don't know what a starter kit is, what it's function is and if it's neccessary or desirable. Can somebody help.

LarryRB · Feb 6, 2005

in my paint shop the compressor was wired with a "mag switch starter" I' know nothing about electrical, but, think I remember the electrician saying it was easier on the start up with a mag switch vs direct wired,, You will have to ask someone more versed on this than I am.. I would believe what your asking is what the kit entails..

have_blue · Feb 6, 2005

ZJ,

Just some general comments. Get a dual cylinder belt driven compressor with a decent motor. Tank size is a over rated. If you have a HD compressor and it has adequate CFM@90PSI rating for your tools, it's OK for the compessor to run continuously for long periods. Set the regulator to 90PSI (or whatever your tool needs) and it will keep up regardless of tank size. Light duty compressors and motors will overheat and soon fail if running continuously.

mark777 · Feb 6, 2005

The IR starter kits include their synthetic brand oil, and air filters. Instructions for break in period. All are IR brand items and protect owner during their warranty.

My magnetic switch was included with my compressor. I understand the same thing, that it delays a direct hit of high voltage, and extends motor life. I think (?).

Mark

RonL · Feb 6, 2005

The purpose of a magnetic starter is that if you lose power you have to manually restart the machine. This is important from a safety aspect. You probably don't want your table saw to suddenly turn on when the power come back up. It is also important from the electrical suppliers standpoint. Electrical motors require a huge input of power when they start up. I f you have a shop full of machines running when the power goes down and they have simple on-off switches, you would have a massive load when the power came back on. Mains would blow.

RonL