Dadnatron
Veteran Member
I had a 2" PVC 'main line' pulled 30" deep from the MAIN county line through my property. They did a decent, not good, job but it took over a month of prodding them to actually get them to do it. And they seemed pretty expensive (although that's not my main issue).
I need to put in a T and connect an additional paddock waterer for a new paddock I built. I've contacted them for a quote, and true to form they 'want the business' but apparently don't WANT the business, because they still haven't given me any info or a quote.
My main line is in place. I'd need to run the water about 150' into the paddock. I've worked a little with PVC so I am familiar with it 'enough' I believe to cut in and glue a T. I want to take the 2" down to 3/4" black pvc for the run. I want to install a brass ball valve at the fence, in order to shut off that line. The waterer I wish to install is a Mirafont which requires a small pad.
I come to you with a couple questions.
1. I can certainly dig up the line for access where I wish. But I've 'read' that I need to dig up several feet on each side in order to allow for enough 'flex' in the installed main line so I can place and glue the T. This makes sense, but this is 30" deep and I want to dig up as much as necessary but not dig up MORE than necessary. Its hot out there.
2. I need to find out how best to step down the pipe from 2" to 3/4" poly. Is that best done at the T ie, buy a T that immediately steps down to 3/4 at the takeoff? Any recommendation in this part would be greatly appreciated, as it is the most 'concerning' aspect for me. I don't want to screw up my line for things downstream.
3. Are heat tubes 'that useful' in zone 6? I'm near Lexington KY, and the plumber just used a culvert as his riser tube, but the directions recommend an insulated heat/earth tube.
4. ANY and all 'Tips and tricks' would be welcome. I think I'll rent a vibratory plow just to make my life easier.
I need to put in a T and connect an additional paddock waterer for a new paddock I built. I've contacted them for a quote, and true to form they 'want the business' but apparently don't WANT the business, because they still haven't given me any info or a quote.
My main line is in place. I'd need to run the water about 150' into the paddock. I've worked a little with PVC so I am familiar with it 'enough' I believe to cut in and glue a T. I want to take the 2" down to 3/4" black pvc for the run. I want to install a brass ball valve at the fence, in order to shut off that line. The waterer I wish to install is a Mirafont which requires a small pad.
I come to you with a couple questions.
1. I can certainly dig up the line for access where I wish. But I've 'read' that I need to dig up several feet on each side in order to allow for enough 'flex' in the installed main line so I can place and glue the T. This makes sense, but this is 30" deep and I want to dig up as much as necessary but not dig up MORE than necessary. Its hot out there.
2. I need to find out how best to step down the pipe from 2" to 3/4" poly. Is that best done at the T ie, buy a T that immediately steps down to 3/4 at the takeoff? Any recommendation in this part would be greatly appreciated, as it is the most 'concerning' aspect for me. I don't want to screw up my line for things downstream.
3. Are heat tubes 'that useful' in zone 6? I'm near Lexington KY, and the plumber just used a culvert as his riser tube, but the directions recommend an insulated heat/earth tube.
4. ANY and all 'Tips and tricks' would be welcome. I think I'll rent a vibratory plow just to make my life easier.