Consensus On A Good Welder

[robertm]

So what is it? I've read so many posts here and there, I'm confused... or maybe not.

I want to weld around 1/4" materials. Easily and affordably. It looks like a mig set-up is the way to go. Thinking a Hobart 175 or Miller 175 is the one. Not suer about the 135's. I have 220V available. What are you all using that does the job? I'm looking to put a new cutting edge on the new B7510 bucket, make a 3pt pallet lift/carrier, a 3pt hitch, weld some brackets on my landscape trailer, hooks on the loader bucket, and maybe even make a ROPS canopy. That's all this weekend! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I am a little leary of the 110V welders due to material thickness limitations, penetration, etc. I'm thinking that a mig that uses flux core wire, but one I can add the gas kit to (or hopefully it comes with it) would be great. The flux and gas options is what I would want. This way, I'll use flux core most of the time, but when I get better and the gas is an expense I can stomach, I'll pop for the gas, too. Any input fellers?

 

[gsganzer]

I have a Lincoln Square Wave Tig 175 that I've been real happy with. It allows you to either stick or tig. I don't use the tig very often, but it's nice to have it available for doing stainless or aluminum.

The mig machines are nice, but I always consider them more for production work. I think you'll get more versatility out of a stick/tig combo for a home shop.

 

[SnowRidge]

I bought a Hobart Stickmate LX 225 AC/DC for uses much as you describe. I also took an evening welding course at the local Vo-Tech.

I haven't regretted either decision.

 

[Gary_in_Indiana]

I have the Hobart "Handler" 175 MIG welder and am real happy with it. From what you wrote it would accomodate your needs nicely. It only requires 30 amps of 220V service, too. I've seen them last year under $600 with cart, starter helmet, gloves, etc. I'd suggest an auto darkening helmet with whatever you get. I have one that's adjustable from 9-13, I believe.

I'd also heartily recommend taking a couple classes at your local adult continuing education facility, too. That was by far the best time and money I've spent in a long, long time. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Hobart, Miller and Lincoln are all good names in welders. It just comes down to needs and budget. Here's a site that you might want to check out. There are welders there using all sorts of different equipment you could ask. It's good folks much like TBN with some of the same faces and screen names there as here.

Good luck with whatever you decide. I hope this helps. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Tye]

Robert, I work for a welder part time and I 've learned a few things from him. If you buy a welder, try to find a used commerical grade welder. Not only are they cheaper and built better but your local welding supply store will fix them if they ever need repair -they will not fix the harry home owner ones, like from Sears. Second, if you buy a commerical unit, make sure you have a 220v outlet with at least a 50 amp fuse. Another thing, don't buy an AC unit. AC is the old way of welding many years ago and does not penetrate well at all. A commerial unit will have AC, DC+, DC-. With a machine like that you'll want to keep it set at DC+. Remember: "POSITIVE PUSHES." In other words the current is flowing from your stinger to the ground. The current will push the molten metal into your work piece creating a lot better penetration. With metal 1/4" thick, set your machine to approximently 150v and use 1/8" inch 7018 rods. One common mistake people make when welding is to turn up the heat when welding thicker material. The voltage set on the machinge only changes with rod thickness. You use 150v, 1/8" rod on 1/4" plate, 1/2" plate 3/4" plate etc. If you have other questions feel free to contact me at twinters@gmu.edu

 

[MadReferee]

Since you got 220v available, the Hobart Handler 175 or the Millermatic 175 will be just fine for what you want to do. I have had a MM175 for about 4 years and my projects were similar to what you want to do. I have made carry-alls, 3pt trailer hitches, landscape rakes, lawn dethatchers, a small box trailer, a few ornamental projects, welded bucket hooks and lift link extensions, and the list goes on and on. The MM175 was the perfect tool for these kind of jobs.

Call me a very satisfied MM175 customer. You will be too.

 

[have_blue]

Oh man, I saw a little Lincoln "tombstone" retro-look stick welder at Sam's Club for $225. That red box sure brought back some memories. It's I think it's 230v and ~175A, which will weld 1/4 plate real nice.

 

[chim]

I'm not a welder, but I can "glue things together" pretty well for a novice. In years past I've made mounting brackets for truck-mounted snowplows, lift boom for my tractor, mounts for 8000# winches, a utility trailer and a variety of other things at the in-law's farm with an old tombstone AC welder. The welds weren't pretty, but nothing has fallen apart or broken.

Late last Fall, I scraped a few bucks together for a Millermatic 175 and an 80# bottle of C25 gas. Wow, what a nice machine to work with, especially when compared with the old stick machine. My max metal thickness on projects is 1/4", and many times much lighter. I simply love the MM175 and the auto-darkening hood. I've used it to make target frames for our range (angle iron subjected to .22 and .45 rounds), a towball attachment for my tractor's front end loader, repairs to mowers, and of course a rolling cart for the welder itself.

It runs on a 30 amp 240 volt line. I have both flux core and solid (gas needed) wire. More experienced welders tell me flux core will give better penetration on heavier materials. Polarity must be reversed to switch from flux core to solid wire that I use. It's a simple "move the jumper" operation inside the welder door. The solid wire provides exceptionally clean welds that don't have slag.

To give you an idea of the versatility of the machine, just last week I fixed Wifey's Kitchenaid mixer. There's an internal tooth ring gear pressed into the aluminum housing that is (supposed to be) retained from spinning via two small steel rivets. The heads of the two opposed rivets are to engage in small slots in the outside of the gear. The heads of both rivets were worn where they engaged with the slots, allowing the gear to spin in the aluminum housing. The result was the beater would rotate but not spin. With nothing to lose, I turned the heat down and tacked the rivets to the ring gear. Success. No visible marks on the mixer - there's a trim piece that covers the work. Wifey was happy the ancient mixer didn't need replaced...............chim

 

[JRP]

robertm:
You are on the right track:
1. MIG is easy. MIG has made stick obsolete.
2. 220v is much better than 120 v. 120v is ok for autobody.
3. Gas shield makes pretty welds with no slag chipping. 75/25 gas works very well. Don't use gas in wind.
4. You don't really need 50A. I use/own a Millermatic 250X and plug it into a 30A dryer outlet. If I try to weld 1/2" it just trips the breaker. I can back off on the settings, reset, and continue welding.
5. My preferenc is for Miller brand.
6. Find the good local weld supply shops and find the brands they carry spare parts "consumables" for. Make sure you get one of those brands.
7. After you find the brand you want, consider buying a new one off ebay. My 250X was much less, free shipping, and no tax.

Best of luck. A welder opend up worlds of opportunities.

 

[horseman1]

I have the Hobart Handler 175 MIG . It is a great welder, but I would have to say that if your primary use is to weld 1/4 then you will be running the 175 near max all the time. If 1/4 inch is the max you will be doing and plan mostly to do thinner welds then I think the 175 Miller or Hobart are both good choices. Dont get me wrong, I weld 1/4 inch in a single pass with the 175 and it works fine, it's just that the duty cycle wont be all that good. The 210 would be a better choice if 1/4 inch and above is all you want to do. Stick would also be fine, but was a little harder to learn for me. Let me say that I am an amatuer, but I do OK.

The main difference between the Miller and the Hobart is that the Hobart has taps for the voltage selections and the Miller voltage is infinately variable. Hobart is owned by Miller if you didnt know. If you are interested in the Hobart and Miller, they have just released the 180 amp models. So, the 175 will be discontinued soon I suspect. I dont know what 5 more amps buys you other than bragging rights, but who knows. This is my first post here. Hopes this helps!

Kurt