Considering a Kubota BX.....

   #1  

deere4320

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Jun 10, 2010
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187
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Northwest CT
Tractor
2008 Deere 4320 eHydro w/400X FEL and Unloaded R4's
Hi All,
My family and i are looking for a new SCUT for mowing. We have about 5 and 1/2 mowable acres. My deere 4320 is a little too much for mowing and tilling our small garden. Plus, i don't have an iMatch or a quick change system, so i would be a pain switching between a RFM and the old brush hog. I would plan to eventually purchase a tiller. Our terrain is hilly so 4WD is a must. I have been doing research on the BX vs. the competitors and i think the BX is an all around better tractor. I am only fifteen years old so i have been saving since winter, working all summer so far, and plan to sell our deere lawn tractor. On our way home from Charlotte today we saw a Kubota dealer in Maryland and stopped to see what they had. They had some nice used BX's. I had wish a bought a camera with me, but there were already on tractor house.com. The first is a 2004 BX2230 w/ 414 hours and a RCK60 MMM for $7,500. The other was a 2002 BX2200 with 670 hours and a RCK60 MMM for $6,900. They both seem to be in great shape. Was there any big difference between theses tractors? I know that there is a $600 price difference but the BX2230 has 200 less hours than the BX2200. Has anybody had both of them? Whats a better deal?:confused:

Sorry I don't know how to post more than 4 pictures so the pics of the BX2200 will in another post.
 

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  • Thread Starter
#2  
OP
deere4320

deere4320

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187
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Northwest CT
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2008 Deere 4320 eHydro w/400X FEL and Unloaded R4's
Here they are...
 

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   #3  

TheFlatlander

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May 6, 2008
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309
Location
Howell, MI
Tractor
Kubota BX2660, Kubota RTV400ci
They both are great tractors, but i woud definately prefer the BX2230, considering the pricing that you recieved and the improvements of the model line. The BX2230 is a very good Kubota tractor.
 
   #4  

JOHNTHOMAS

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Apr 14, 2008
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7,716
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Somerset, Ky
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F2690 4WD RTV X1140 MX5400 HST ZD1211
200 hours and 2 years is worth paying the $600 difference in my opinion. I've had a BX2200, my first Kubota and it is a workhorse and there will be very little difference between either one of them other than the age and hours. Shop around with these figures and you may be able to save some more money.
 
   #5  

Grandad4

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Jan 5, 2010
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2,712
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Kubota BX2230, Farmall Super M
I believe one of the main changes from the BX2200 to the BX2230 was the loader design. With the BX2200, you would disconnect the FEL, but the control valve and stick would stay with the tractor. With the BX2230, the valve and stick were mounted on the FEL frame and came off with the FEL. And, sure enough, you can see the control valve and stick on the right side of the BX2200 in that picture! But the rest of the loader seems to be missing... no mounting brackets, etc. I would want to know the story behind that. Seems a bit wierd that it originally had a loader and it was taken off.
 
   #6  

SCtractorguy

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Aug 8, 2008
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144
Location
midlands SC
Tractor
L3240, BX2350, RTV 900
I had a 2230 that was a great mower. I traded for a BX2350 also very good. I'd go with the BX2230 of the two just for the lower hours also.
 
  
  • Thread Starter
#7  
OP
deere4320

deere4320

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Messages
187
Location
Northwest CT
Tractor
2008 Deere 4320 eHydro w/400X FEL and Unloaded R4's
I believe one of the main changes from the BX2200 to the BX2230 was the loader design. With the BX2200, you would disconnect the FEL, but the control valve and stick would stay with the tractor. With the BX2230, the valve and stick were mounted on the FEL frame and came off with the FEL. And, sure enough, you can see the control valve and stick on the right side of the BX2200 in that picture! But the rest of the loader seems to be missing... no mounting brackets, etc. I would want to know the story behind that. Seems a bit wierd that it originally had a loader and it was taken off.

But without the loader joystick on the BX2200, how would you operate a plow or snowblower?
 
   #8  

ChuckinNH

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Jun 23, 2003
Messages
3,075
Location
NH
Tractor
(B2620, had BX22) Simplicity Legacy w/48" mmm
I had a BX22, and one of the reasons I traded it was that the hydraulic controls came off with the loader. Yes, you can dismont the loader controls, and mount them back on the tractor, but it is kind of a greasy dance to do alone. Some of that series tractor was sold without a loader, and so the mast, etc. has to be purchased separately if you want to use front mounted attachments, and they aren't cheap. I think that the foot pedal for the hydro was improved between the BX2200, and BX2230 series too. Others, and myself had problems with the tractor not stopping sometimes when you took your foot off the hydro. The issue was "sometimes" since it could be a bit irritating to stop one time, and not the next.
You say that you think the BX is the better of the small tractors. Is that a subjective thing like feel, or ergonomics, or a matter of specs. / performance? Older minds need to know. :D
 
   #9  

Grandad4

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2,712
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Kubota BX2230, Farmall Super M
But without the loader joystick on the BX2200, how would you operate a plow or snowblower?

There were some who did not like the "improvement" for just the reason you mentioned, but I guess most buyers did not need a front attachment other than the FEL. I have a rear blade for my BX, which does OK in our mild mid-Atlantic winters.
 

leonz

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Sep 9, 2008
Messages
5,959
Location
NE USA
Tractor
JD LA115, WH 244, Troy Built Horse 8 HP




You dont need new to you power in my opinion only but:


It would be better for you to save your money, buy some rear wheel wieghts,
or have the tires loaded with windshield washer fluid in bulk, and as you already have a prime mover with a large engine and power-

you should keep the John Deere and purchase a 59 inch Caroni Flail mower with or without the hydraulic side shift from agri supply as they have an internet sale price with frieght included delivered to your door or if you live close to one of their retail outlets save on the freight.

The Caroni TM1900FSC flail mower can be mounted manually in two postions being 1 and 0 to mow.

Youu can order the hydraulic side shift and do it all for you with no issues.

You can eliminate the brush mower too with purchase of the flail mower.


The Caroni folks build a good rototiller as well and agrisupply may be whre you want to buy the tiller and you could save on freight costs when or if you buy both of them at one time.



The CaroniTM1900FSC has a 75 inch cut with 112 grass knives and the grass knives have more total cutting edge in ches than an Brush hog, RFM, or belly mower.


Its no secret I like Kubota tractors and flail mowers, as I worked on the mine use underground versions of kubota two wheel drive tractors for years etc., but you should save your money and buy wheel wieghts for the JD4320 and or have the tires loaded and buy the TM 1900FSC as you will be out less money in the long run and you will have a mower that will outlast the tractor as long as it is taken care of.

The flail mower is shorter than a RFM or brush mower too and will not throw objects making missiles out of them.

The rear roller on the flail mower reduce any scalping to a bare minimum
if it happens at all and creates an even cut all the way across the mower path.

The rear roller is the hieght gauge for the cut of the flail mower and is locked in place with nuts and bolts.


The flail mower with finish blades is equally at home mowing brush as well and will knock it all down in one or two passses depending on your ground speed and brush volume, and as long as you maintain 540 rpm and the higher throttle setting to avoid power issues.


There are a lot postings about flail mowers here and 93 pages or more on them now in the attachments part of the TBN home page, candidly I would suggest you read them, only to become more informed, as knowledge is power.


An old Arab proverb goes like this: "there is danger in not knowing what you do not know".

I would rather see that you were an informed consumer only because:

1. I dont have a nickle invested in what you do, or do not do with your money.
2. I have any commercial interests in mowers.
3. I own a towed motorised 48 inch flail mower
4. the first time you see how a flail mower works you will see why they work so well.
5. the flail mower slices the grass blade or brush where the rotary mower or brush mower tears it.
6. The flail moweer operates at high rpm and creates a vacuum to lift the xliced material over the rotor and throws
it back down on the ground.
7. heavy brush is sliced into tiny pieces and it will be much easier to chop it up with the flail mower a second time
with very little effort or power.
8. the flailmower makes much, much, less noise than a rotary mower or brush mower.
9. less fuel used.
10. less time required to mow- I mow five acres with a wheel horse with 2 gallons of gas flat out with 16 horse
briggs and stratton single cylinder engine inn low range-
the tractor simply becomes a tow truck where the motorised flail is giving full out to the flail mower
rotor through the belt drive at very high rotor RPM.
11. mower grass knives are much less expensive than rotary mower blades.



We have had the same 48" flail mower with only minor repairs for the original engine, one tire and rim and main bearing replacement in 30 plus years- we replaced a 36 inch flail mower with the wider unit.





My thoughts anyway for what it is worth.


Flail-Master - Mower Replacement Parts, Commercial Riding Mower Parts, Rotary Cutter Parts, Blade grinders, Trimmer Line, Mowing Accessories - Flail Master - Flailmaster -

Agri Supply - Farm Supplies, Tools, Lawn Mower Blades, Cast Iron Cookware

Caroni S.p.a. - Costruzioni meccaniche


leonz


There is no helping fluffy now, we are ruined!



 

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Last edited:

Baucom

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Feb 10, 2005
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360
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Boiling Springs, SC
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MF 2823
It would be A LOT cheaper to add a quick hitch to your 4320 to make changing implements quicker and easier than it would be to buy a BX to mow with. With 5.5 acres to mow, I would be wanting to use the biggest mower that I could, and since you already have a JD lawn tractor to mow the lawn around the house, I would be looking into either: a) a 6'+ flail mower or b) a 7'+ grooming mower. Unless your 5.5 acres has a ton of trees to mow around, either one would be a good bit quicker than a BX with a 5' MMM.

As for tilling the garden--if the 4320 is a bit too much to till it, then a good rear tine walk behind is probably tiller enough. I don't know how big the garden is, but my garden is 30' x 50', which is pretty small and that would take a minimum of 5 passes with a 6' tiller. There's no harm in making short work of a task so long as it's done well.

But, if you're just looking for justification to buy another machine, then the BX does make an excellent mower and garden tractor.
 
  
  • Thread Starter
#12  
OP
deere4320

deere4320

Silver Member
Joined
Jun 10, 2010
Messages
187
Location
Northwest CT
Tractor
2008 Deere 4320 eHydro w/400X FEL and Unloaded R4's
It would be A LOT cheaper to add a quick hitch to your 4320 to make changing implements quicker and easier than it would be to buy a BX to mow with. With 5.5 acres to mow, I would be wanting to use the biggest mower that I could, and since you already have a JD lawn tractor to mow the lawn around the house, I would be looking into either: a) a 6'+ flail mower or b) a 7'+ grooming mower. Unless your 5.5 acres has a ton of trees to mow around, either one would be a good bit quicker than a BX with a 5' MMM.

As for tilling the garden--if the 4320 is a bit too much to till it, then a good rear tine walk behind is probably tiller enough. I don't know how big the garden is, but my garden is 30' x 50', which is pretty small and that would take a minimum of 5 passes with a 6' tiller. There's no harm in making short work of a task so long as it's done well.

But, if you're just looking for justification to buy another machine, then the BX does make an excellent mower and garden tractor.


I am not that familiar with Flail Mowers. I know there are hundreds of threads on TBN about them. My one question is, Aren't they only made to do the job of a brush hog, not a RFM?
 

leonz

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Messages
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Location
NE USA
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JD LA115, WH 244, Troy Built Horse 8 HP
No please dont think that the flailmower is just for mowing brush and road ditches, It can do both grass mowing and brush very well with a finish mower rotor with 122 blades like the TM1900FSC.

You get a beautiful mowing job with flailmower and the rear roller guarantees a level cut with no adjusting wheels or linkages other than the proper positioning of the top link using the rear roller to regulate the cuttting hieght
by unbolting it and setting it in one of the gauge holes-done and done.



You mow slowly at 540 rpm with high engine rpm for the 540 speed and slice the blades of grass with the grass knives, and you can mow brush the same day with no issues, just mow with due care and slowly.



All that left is narrow windrow of grass clippings that can be recut or left to compost with aid of mother nature.

You will be able to dethach your lawn and brush filled areas to plant grass seed by broadcasting it too.

This method of mowing or brush cutting is referred to as verticutting as the rotor spins a large number of knives(in the case of a finish cut rotor and slices a small bit of grass with the other blades behind it mowing whats left to slice as it advances or reverses.


The rotary mower tears the grass blade where the flail mower geass knife slices it cleanly and it reduced the stress on the lawn from mowing too.



Each grass knife creates its own suction with the centrifugal force created by the rotor to carry the clippings up and over the rotor and back down on the ground.

You also can mow wet grass or brush, and if you have little or no snow cover during late fall or early winter you can knock all the brush down during that time with no problems.


There is no worrying about cleaning grass build up with a flail mower as the grass does not have time to stick to anything as the suction created by the rotor and knives lifts and throws it up and over back on the ground and you can recut everything if its overgrown quickly as it simply lifts slices and dumps the cuttings behind the rotor.

The larger flailmowers have baskets that are used to collect the clippings using a diverter door and the rotor has four paddles to create more suction to carry the grass into the basket for collection and disposal or composting,
some of these flail mowers have hydraiulic lifts to dump the clippings into trailer or small trucks.


If you do not have the engine at its rated speed for the 540 rpm and you are mowing heavy brush in a higher gear you may burn the the belts out.


Heavy brush requires you to mow at very low forward speed and high engine speed for the 540 rpm to avoid stalling and belt burn out.


This enables the finish mower rotor blade to rotate at its full rated rpm and velocity to slice the brush quickly and throw it over the rotor (some flails can be operated in reverse throwing the cuttings forward in some major brands).


Like anything else they require care and grease (the Caroni flailmower has grease fittings behind the belt guard that require greasing like many other brands) to operate properly and will handle heavy shock loads from mounds of grown brush or ant hills.

The biggest benefit is safety as it does not throw objects like a rotary mower will do as the object is impacted, carried, and recarried to the discharge chute or rear of the rotary mower.

And the flail mower makes much less noise than a belly mower.


Any mower will skip if you operate at too fast forward speed simply due to the speed of movement.

The flailmower will be able to eliminate the tire marks of flattened grass if operated slowly enough or used to overlap and recut.

The rear roller creates the flat ribbon pattern if you like to have that, or simply mow and mow with no issues as it will simply be a nice carpet cut even at a high setting.


The thing about good turf is this; the longer the grass blade the longer the root and the healthier the sod, but if you do not have a good sod cutting it down flat prevents a lot of weed growth and possible invasion form poison ivy which is much more abundant this year due to the excesss CO2 in the atmospere and much more clear cutting of forests in the USA.


You will not go wrong with a purchase like this in my opinion.
 
Last edited:

buckeyefarmer

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Jun 25, 2005
Messages
18,296
Location
MD
Tractor
Kubota L3940 L5030 MF205-4
Hi All,
My family and i are looking for a new SCUT for mowing. We have about 5 and 1/2 mowable acres. My deere 4320 is a little too much for mowing and tilling our small garden. Plus, i don't have an iMatch or a quick change system, so i would be a pain switching between a RFM and the old brush hog. I would plan to eventually purchase a tiller. Our terrain is hilly so 4WD is a must. I have been doing research on the BX vs. the competitors and i think the BX is an all around better tractor. I am only fifteen years old so i have been saving since winter, working all summer so far, and plan to sell our deere lawn tractor. On our way home from Charlotte today we saw a Kubota dealer in Maryland and stopped to see what they had. They had some nice used BX's. I had wish a bought a camera with me, but there were already on tractor house.com. The first is a 2004 BX2230 w/ 414 hours and a RCK60 MMM for $7,500. The other was a 2002 BX2200 with 670 hours and a RCK60 MMM for $6,900. They both seem to be in great shape. Was there any big difference between theses tractors? I know that there is a $600 price difference but the BX2230 has 200 less hours than the BX2200. Has anybody had both of them? Whats a better deal?:confused:

Sorry I don't know how to post more than 4 pictures so the pics of the BX2200 will in another post.

What made you go with the TN tractor instead of the MD one?
 

montelatici

Platinum Member
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Apr 5, 2007
Messages
630
Location
Croom, Maryland
Tractor
Kubota B2601 and L3560 HSTC LE
I believe one of the main changes from the BX2200 to the BX2230 was the loader design. With the BX2200, you would disconnect the FEL, but the control valve and stick would stay with the tractor. With the BX2230, the valve and stick were mounted on the FEL frame and came off with the FEL. And, sure enough, you can see the control valve and stick on the right side of the BX2200 in that picture! But the rest of the loader seems to be missing... no mounting brackets, etc. I would want to know the story behind that. Seems a bit wierd that it originally had a loader and it was taken off.

Not necessarily. I bought my BX1850 brand new off the "showroom" floor and it had the hydraulics and joy stick but no FEL.
 

keyman1808

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Oct 5, 2009
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657
Location
Freetown, MA
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BX24
I thought on the 50 an 60 series the loader valve came standard?? Maybe someone with more knowledge would know
 

SeymourBota

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Aug 11, 2004
Messages
783
Location
Central Vermont
Tractor
Kubota B2410, BX2200
I thought on the 50 an 60 series the loader valve came standard?? Maybe someone with more knowledge would know

Most dealers order them that way, but they can be ordered without.

The extra cost when ordering is small compared to over $1,000 for parts and labor to add the valve/stick afterward.
 
 
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