Crank seals and blow by?

   / Crank seals and blow by? #1  

jticknor

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Joined
Feb 15, 2021
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Location
Travelers Rest, SC
Tractor
I have an orchard MF 135 and a MF 50C Backhoe
This 135 orchard I just bought, it sat for around 3 years. When I bought it, I didn't see any issues as far as leaks, but after a few hours of use, I see a couple leaks. One appears to be the front crank seal, the other is oil creeping out between the engine and the clutch, which at least could be the rear crank seal, I believe. I asked Bundy Bears on youtube about it, whether it was something that need to be dealt with asap or could be ok until I could get to it. He responded if both were leaking I could have blow by. I know basically what that means, but I don't know what that could mean? Thoughts here, if both seals appear to be leaking do I need to break it apart and fix those asap or are odds are its because it sat for three years and as long as I keep the oil topped off it should be ok for a while? I did check the oil pressure, it's runnin in the 40-55 lb range at pretty much all times. Thoughts?

Thanks
 
   / Crank seals and blow by? #2  
blow by is an indication the rings/ cylinder walls are worn. meaning the engine could be on its last breath, if the engine starts quickly and doesn't blow blue smoke, then the engine is prolly fine and the seals are just bad from sitting.

i have this issue on a backhoe that is brand new, but 5 years old. both stab jacks are leaking. and getting worse the more i use it
 
   / Crank seals and blow by?
  • Thread Starter
#3  
blow by is an indication the rings/ cylinder walls are worn. meaning the engine could be on its last breath, if the engine starts quickly and doesn't blow blue smoke, then the engine is prolly fine and the seals are just bad from sitting. i have this issue on a backhoe that is brand new, but 5 years old. both stab jacks are leaking. and getting worse the more i use it
Good deal, yeah there’s nearly no smoke and it starts with just a bump of the key. Less smoke than my other one. So then assuming it’s just the seals how big of a hurry do I need to be in to deal with that?
 
   / Crank seals and blow by? #4  
Good deal, yeah there’s nearly no smoke and it starts with just a bump of the key. Less smoke than my other one. So then assuming it’s just the seals how big of a hurry do I need to be in to deal with that?
how much is your fluid replacement budget, really depends on how fast it leaks and how annoying it is. you just need to keep an eye on it
 
   / Crank seals and blow by?
  • Thread Starter
#5  
how much is your fluid replacement budget, really depends on how fast it leaks and how annoying it is. you just need to keep an eye on it
Gotcha. Yeah Ill probably go ahead and do the front seal before long, it's not horrible but it's definitely leaking. The rear seal maybe not as urgent
 
   / Crank seals and blow by? #6  
Make sure you have the year of your tractor as there are 2 different crankshaft seals. I don't know the change over date. Mine had the 2 piece rope type. If you have this, expect to use a fat punch to get it all in.
Just be aware that a rear seal leak means oil can get on the clutch and cause slippage with a bad leak.
Also the sump is a stressed chassis component ie HEAVY. it is NOT tin and won't be easy to remove due to its weight. Use a jack.
 
   / Crank seals and blow by? #7  
Regarding blow-by, I would have a look at the engine breather output pipe/tube to determine the extent of the blow-by. Or, remove the oil fill cap and watch for smoke. Report back.
 
   / Crank seals and blow by?
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Make sure you have the year of your tractor as there are 2 different crankshaft seals. I don't know the change over date. Mine had the 2 piece rope type. If you have this, expect to use a fat punch to get it all in.
Just be aware that a rear seal leak means oil can get on the clutch and cause slippage with a bad leak.
Also the sump is a stressed chassis component ie HEAVY. it is NOT tin and won't be easy to remove due to its weight. Use a jack.
10-4 thanks. Been debating replacing the clutch one way or the other once I have it open
 
   / Crank seals and blow by?
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Regarding blow-by, I would have a look at the engine breather output pipe/tube to determine the extent of the blow-by. Or, remove the oil fill cap and watch for smoke. Report back.
Did that a couple days ago. No pressure coming out the oil cap or smoke. I’ll look at the breather output as well. Again my suspicion is the issue is that the tractor sat for 3-4 years so I think that’s the culprit.
 
   / Crank seals and blow by? #10  
I think your on the right track as to sit and wait and evaluate from the time it's been sitting. A lot of times these seals dry out from lack of use. Especially if it is an older style rope or felt type seal.

Keep an eye on the rear main for oil on the pressure plate. There should be an inspection plate that you can open and spray brake cleaner on it to get any oil off. I know you plan on addressing it eventually but this will help keep oil from glazing the plate.
 
 
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