Creeper gear speed ?

[Durbob]

It seems with the shuttle shifts on a lot of the new (any brand) tractor that the creeper gear is no more. When i get my tractor the creeper gear will be a must because i will want to rototill with it. After looking at different specs and speeds on the shuttle shift tractor, will someone please tell me what speed would be slow enough to rototill. Is .44 a slow enough speed to rototill? And i'm not looking for a hst.

Thanks
Durbob

 

[JerryG]

Bob,
Dealers are bad about not carrying tractors with creeper gears on the lot, but several do have them available. Take for instance my MF 1440, it has a 16 speed shuttle with the low being .25. Usually my closest dealer just has 8 speeds shuttles with the low being .94.

 

[MarkNHow]

Sorry it took so long to post but I was busy with other jobs. Tilling at a depth of 6" in creeper HI and regular LOW, first gear in 2 passes was ready to plant. I took a picture but it's too large. It's in jpeg format how do you post pictures with a 100,000 byte maximun? I couldn't find individual gear specs but I found a range of .4 to 15 mph for the 284. If these are correct .4 would be creeper LOW and regular LOW, first gear. I would think that my tilling speed would have been at least .44.
I tilled in 2nd with my first configuration. I thought it was a little fast.

Mark H

 

[greg_g]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Is .44 a slow enough speed to rototill?)</font>

Might depend if you're talking about 0.44 kph or 0.44 mph. Because work speed is relative to the rated traction force of the tractors you're looking at, as they don't likely all have identical weight/hp/gear ratios.

But what I can do, is pass on a little info from the Jinma operator's manual. The attachment I uploaded lists the factory recommended gear/range for differing tasks. Then consider the JM254 speeds (in kph) when in those gears/ranges
Range-Gear-Speed-Creeper
Low-----1-----1.73----0.32
Low-----2-----3.42----0.64
Low-----3-----7.99----1.40
Low-Reverse--1.37----0.26
High----1-----5.70----1.06
High----2----15.79----2.94
High----3----26.35----4.91
High-Reverse-6.34----1.18

Given the JM254 traction force of 1586 pounds, it should roto-till between 1.73 and 3.42 kph (1.07-2.12 mph). That means your stated 0.44 - whether mph or kph - might rototill just fine.

That said, there's no substitute for horsepower. My KM454 (shuttle) has no creeper gear, but I wouldn't hesitate to hook it up to a rototiller any day.

//greg//

 

[RICHARDG]

Just bought a tiller this past spring,a 5 ft one,on my 254,seems like low/low,2nd is about right,,still new to it,,that low/low range sure has a creeper of a reverse,wished it was a little higher,,thats how that shuttle shift works ain't it,,it goes in reverse same speed as forward? See where that would have a very good use,if thats how it works..thingy

 

[SPIKER]

hey all:

I have a 284 with out the shuttle shift. (would like to trade up to the shuttle though) anyhow I TILL in LL1 for areas where I know nothing about and has a SOD type covering, this is slow enough to beable to stop & raise the tiller if I hit soemthing immobile with it before doing any REAL damage. areas I've been over that are say light to moderatly HARd I use the LL2 and for stuff that is already broken up and only needs further tilling then I can use LL3. this is usually for 3rd consutive pass or for the garden after it sat a week or two and missed gettting it planted before a rain or something like that. It works great in LL2 though it is a pain to back up as LLr is WAY slow!... and only a touch faster than LL1 /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

MarkM

 

[RICHARDG]

Know what you are talking about spiker,,well,on mine I just this past time useing it,to put the garden to bed,figured out how to adjust it so I can now raise it a foot or so,with it running,so I don't have to stop,disengage pto,etc,,to keep u-joints from clacking,when I raise it,to ovoid hitting ground and stuff,when I turn around at the ends,,,,I adjusted top link,in and out to see where it made the difference[if there was one],,figured and looked like to decrease angle of shaft,to shorten top link,,,but you need to lengthen top link way long,it sets back now,instead of straight up or tilting forward,,that did the trick,,now I can just keep going in low/low2,or half clutch it,and shift to low/low 3,lift it up,[got to be carefull there],and turn around with tiller running. But every now and than,you still got to put it in reverse,,thats the time to get a rub of snuff,set back,,and remind your self that you ain't in any hurry anyways..thingy