croosing a creek with underground well pipe???

[scesnick]

I live on 76 acres that is divided almost in half by a stream. The side I built my home on was at one time striped for the coal. I drilled a well when I built and the water is crappy and full of iron. Did all the filters, weater treatments and it still isn't all that great.

The other side of the hill ( across the creek) has never been stripped for coal and there is a very nice spring with crytal clear water. Had it tested and it passed with flying colors..Piping that water from that side of the hill to my house is pretty straight forward but the one problem is how in the world do you run the poly well pipe across the creek?

It gets very cold in my neck of the woods so freezing is a huge issue with anything above ground. I would think that any "ditch" dug across or under the creek would simply be washed out with the flow in no time at all.

Surely someone has done this before? Any ideas?

 

[beenthere]

Burying it under the creek bed a few feet should work and not wash out.
But the big headache might be your DNR rules (would be here anyway).

But creeks are crossed all the time with pipes, sewer lines, utility lines, etc.

 

[scesnick]

Burying it under the creek bed a few feet should work and not wash out.
But the big headache might be your DNR rules (would be here anyway).

But creeks are crossed all the time with pipes, sewer lines, utility lines, etc.

How deep would you suggest?

 

[Egon]

Consider adding some Concrete Weights to the pipe where it crosses the stream.

 

[6sunset6]

48" deep .Hire a directional driller. They are fairly common now . Drill right under the creek and pull the pipe back. No muss , no fuss. I bet there is someone with in 100 miles that does it.

http://www.directionaltech.com/

http://dealers.vermeermfg.com/public/act_getVDCLiterature.cfm?vdcdocid=105158

Here is a little one
http://www.ditchwitch.com/trenchless/directional-drills/compact/JT520

 

[/pine]

I agree that a directional driller is the easiest option...

to do it manually...depending on the size of the creek you may need to cofferdam it half way using sand bags...and then do the other side...backfill with gravel and sand under additional sandbags..add portland to the top course of sand bags keeping the tops at least 12 inches below what is now the level of the creek bed...then cover with gravel

 

[dex3361]

I would consider slip jointing the crossing lay a larger pipe and slipping a smaller pipe through it. This would allow you to only have to deal with digging up the creek 1 time.

How big id the creek across?

How deep is the creek? It would be no problem to dig across if its dry.

Does it ever dry up?

 

[LakeRat1]

I am with dex3361, depending on the area where you live, you can get used Oil Field Tubing, it comes in sizes like 2-7/8 in, and 28 or so ft. long, and has Male & Female pin & box connection on each joint, and the price is cheap, it is very strong, it will flex but you have a hard time bending it, it would last a long time in that creek bottom, i would lay this pipe 2 ft. below the creek bottom, the weight will help hold it in place, then send a snake through and either pull the PVC Pipe through or if you need something stronger pull it through then pull your pipe through, if it is not to long of a run you may be able to jush push the P V C through the Tubing, be sure to Lub. the PVC as you pull or push it through, i would suggest 1in but if you have a need for a lot of water you may be able to get 1-1/2 in through, it will just be a lot stiffer to work with. and get the Heavy Gage PVC
i think it is sec. 40, one other thing you should start the pipe at least 20 ft back from the creek bank, if this creek jumps it banks i might go back 40 or more ft, the used pipe should be about buck a ft. i have not bought any in the last few years, this used tubing is used for all type of things around the Farms, it is very strong