Thought I would continue to document headgasket job
The timing markings on flywheel were not visible because of surface rust. My solution was to take a piece of red scotch brite pad and wrap it over a 3/4" socket extension, it fit perfectly through the "window". I rotated the engine by hand from the crank pulley and pushed in on the extension/pad to clean off the rust and reveal the markings. From there, adjusting the valve lash was straight forward. I put it all together and let it sit like that for a couple of weeks till last night. With the fuel lines cracked open at the fuel distributor, it primed and started quickly. I left if idle for 10 min or so then bumped it up to 2000 rpm and let it run till it warmed up. It started to just barely creep past the second dot so I shut it down because it was after 10pm and I wasn't sure if I had a air in the coolant. I popped the radiator cap off an realized the system never pressurized fully but it was warm and had not gone down. I fired it up again and ran it for a few minutes again, this time from shutting it down the temp was half way between the second dot and the red. I let it idle till the temp came back down and shut if off. It was too late to mess with it for long and my garage is heated so leaving the doors open too long is not ideal. With the cost of electric these days, you need to be mindful about stuff like that.
With the loader and the loader mount off, I discovered there is a leak that will be way easier to address now, so that's next on my list. I just need to clean all the caked up dirt and oil off everything so I can see where its coming from.
2 of the hydraulic couplers for the loader seem to leak when disconnected. if there an easy trick to fix this or should I just not worry about it since they don't leak when terminated?