cut pipe for plow cutting edge

[drizler]

How do you guys who have slipped a pipe over a snowplow cutting edge cut the slot? I have an oxyacetylene cutting torch and thought to use that. Also have 4" grinder but that seems too slow. And do you cut the slot undersize a bit and beat the pipe on? Do the snots from the torch help the pipe "fit" correctly? The pipe is 2" nominal and the edge is maybe 5/8".View attachment 347341
I thought to weld tabs on the end and bolt back to the blade somewhere, though it's a Fisher with a trip edge. Any tips there?
Thanks, Jim

Seriously don’t get too carried away with neat n tidy. I started the snowplow blade 4 years back with oxypropane then got sick of it ( I suck at cutting). Then gave up and finished either a 7 1/4” disk on my skill saw. A cutoff blade on a small grinder works too. This time I used a plasma cutter but I haven’t used it enough to be neat with it. Neat doesn’t matter a bit really . Just hack a slit the entire length . You can spread it using a couple prys, splitting wedges ect. Once it fits over the lip barely I simply banged it on until it’s touching the other side . On the truck plow I welded on 3 tabs to align with existing holes in the frame. With the bucket it’s just sitting there and if it gets pried off I will deal with it then . I will try to think to take a couple pictures tomorrow to stick on here.

 

[JohnnyMX]

I used an angle grinder and cutoff disc to make the slit. It took forever but worked and was the only real option I had. I tried to just beat the pipe on at that point but realized my plow was much thicker than what I removed with the cutoff disc and made it a bit wider. I welded two tabs with holes drilled so I could secure it to the outermost bolt holes where the cutting edge connects to the plow.

After a season of use, I noticed pretty good wear on the schedule 40 2" pipe and went back and hard-faced the bottom. Like the true newb that I am with a welder, I forgot that putting in giant runs and heat was going to warp the pipe. I got it back on but it was a pain. I should have been more patient and done much smaller stitches. The good news is after the second season, it shows no wear and the hard-facing did its job.

 

[Dwellonroof]

How would I go about hardening a pipe, can I do it if being installed?

 

[SARG]

An old thread .... but another option for those with blacktop they don't want to scar.

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[JohnnyMX]

I just bought some 1/8" hard-facing rod for my stick welder and ran beads where I saw the pipe was starting to wear. Seeing how the contact area is going to be on the bottom it may depend on if the rod used allows it to be used in all positions and your welding skills. Mine were garbage, so I took it off and did it upside down to make it easy. Just do it in small increments (is where I messed up). You don't need continuous beads and it puts way to much heat into the pipe and will warp it. If you have a choice between schedule 40 and schedule 80 you could just get the thicker pipe and it will serve you well for many years as well.

 

[5030]

I just set my plow wheels for the height I want and call it good.

 

[D.Vance]

I have used friction cut off blades in a circular saw, takes patience and skill, used a mill, and a plasma arc cutter to slit pipe. Prefer the plasma arc cutter.
I use 2 in OD double wall pipe and weld two 1 in by 1/8 in straps bent in a U around the pipe to secure it to the FEL cutting edge. Bolts are about 4-6 in behind the cutting edge. Do the same with the cutting edge on a rear mounted blade.
Normally have to weld 6 in patches to the outer edges after two to three years of use. I maintain about 3 mi of gravel roads for myself and neighbors in NE Mo.
Rounded pipe edges do a good job of minimizing gouging of sod or gravel.

 

[Dwellonroof]

I have used friction cut off blades in a circular saw, takes patience and skill, used a mill, and a plasma arc cutter to slit pipe. Prefer the plasma arc cutter.
I use 2 in OD double wall pipe and weld two 1 in by 1/8 in straps bent in a U around the pipe to secure it to the FEL cutting edge. Bolts are about 4-6 in behind the cutting edge. Do the same with the cutting edge on a rear mounted blade.
Normally have to weld 6 in patches to the outer edges after two to three years of use. I maintain about 3 mi of gravel roads for myself and neighbors in NE Mo.
Rounded pipe edges do a good job of minimizing gouging of sod or gravel.

I used a harbor freight 7” cutoff and cut a slit in a 2” pipe I found in the loft of the barn. About 3/4 way through I noticed my pant leg was on fire.
I spread the pipe a little with a cold chisel at the beginning and drove it on the rest of the way. This year I had half the driveway blacktopped so I might be taking it off.