Buying Advice Deciding on a Kubota BX2680

[manosteel00]

Hi All -

Been researching here for a long time and was torn on whether to pick up a zero turn or CUT for my recently purchased land. I have 64 acres but only about 15-25 of it needs to be maintained.

The property has been meticulously maintained and there are no large projects needed at the moment. Right now, we just need to mow 3 acres around the house and be able to do some light loader work and snow plowing.

I came really close to buying a Ferris ZT but I just wasn't excited about it or any ZT for that matter. I don't mind spending the extra time mowing if it still gets the job done.

I have a few final questions that I'm hoping for your help on.

1) can you add a 3rd function on the bx2680 so I can run a grapple?
2) should I consider stepping up to a B2650? Since I am primarily mowing I'm looking at the BX.
3) the tractor will be used for road grading, light tilling, loader work, firewood, and brush removal. Will I be disappointed in the BX?

 

[Tractorable]

For 64 acres I believe you'd need both a zero turn/garden tractor and a CUT. Preferably, a CUT in the 3500lb+, 40-50hp range. For firewood, snow removal, driveway maintenance, and tillage you need weight, and enough hp to effectively move that weight.

Any bush hogging required?

For the three acres mowing I'd get a zero turn or a garden tractor then get the CUT for everything else. The only problem with the zero turn is that it only does one thing, mow grass. If you want to aerate, seed, fertilize, tow a dump cart etc, you may want to consider a garden tractor like a Deere X500 or X700 series for duties around the house.

 

[TripleR]

You will get many good answers as there are several ways to approach this. Firstly, yes you can get third function. Secondly, no one "does it all" machine will be a compromise. Two machines will work much better. In my opinion, if you are stuck on one machine, a B2601 or even better B2650 will be your best bet. I have BXs only because I have several tractors; can't use zero turn due to my hills. BXs also have poor ground clearance and ride rough on anything but smooth, maintained ground.

We also have a JD 1025R, which unlike the BX has position control and no exposed HST cooling fan. Also consider the equivalent size in MF etc.

Good luck with your purchase and property.

 

[manosteel00]

This is the area that needs to be mowed. There are a ton of outbuildings on the property.



I really thought the B2650 would be a perfect jack of all, master of none compromise but mowing is going to be pretty difficult in some spots. I know I'm going to end up buying a tractor at some point, so my thought is to start with a BX that will allow me to mow around these and if needed, I'll grab another larger tractor down the line.

I may be doing some moderate bush hogging for about 1 acre but I have a friend planting 3 acres of food plots around the property and it doesn't make financial sense to get any implements to try to do it myself.

 

[ericm979]

the tractor will be used for road grading, light tilling, loader work, firewood, and brush removal. Will I be disappointed in the BX?

The BX will be far less capable than a CUT. I had a Kubota B7100 which had BX-class power and size but larger wheels. The Branson I have now is far more capable. I have 20 steep acres. The terrain and vegetation limit where I can operate. The larger tractor is still far superior to the small one. Your lawn does not look that complex to mow to where you'd need a zero turn. A regular lawn tractor/riding mower should do, and they're a lot cheaper.

 

[TripleR]

This is the area that needs to be mowed. There are a ton of outbuildings on the property.



I really thought the B2650 would be a perfect jack of all, master of none compromise but mowing is going to be pretty difficult in some spots. I know I'm going to end up buying a tractor at some point, so my thought is to start with a BX that will allow me to mow around these and if needed, I'll grab another larger tractor down the line.

I may be doing some moderate bush hogging for about 1 acre but I have a friend planting 3 acres of food plots around the property and it doesn't make financial sense to get any implements to try to do it myself.

No doubt the BX is a good starting point if you plan to get a CUT, preferably an L Series, we found ours to be a good mower and use one of ours almost exclusively for mowing. Buildings are easy to mow around and we built our house and made our yard with few other obstacles like trees, bushes etc. around which to mow.

 

[manosteel00]

Hey Guys -

I decided to move on a BX2360. I moved from the BX26 to BX23 since there wasn't much performance difference. Do you agree? Dealer also said drive over mowers are not worth the extra $500 so I just went with the standard one.

This is what the dealer is quoting me which seems to be around 15-16% off. What do you think of the out the door price? Seems like a good deal to me and I'm really excited about these implements. What are your last thoughts? I plan on purchasing today.


The Bx2380 price is $14,443.00
60" Mower Included (non-drive over)
La344S Loader is $ 3,309.00
3rd Function remote Bx2412 $ 650.00
Quick hitch Bx2810 $ 678.00
60" Hyd Blade Bx2812 $ 1,298.00
skid shoes Bx2825 $ 136.00
rubber edge Bx2813 $ 206.00
Box Scraper BB1254 $ 652.00
Grapple SGC0554-91 $ 1, 497.00
Rotary Cutter Rcr 1248 $ 1,532.00

Total list $24,404.00

with all discounts & incentives , final price $20.700.00

 

[tractorshopper]

That's not a bad deal.

My grapple is my favorite attachment. Very useful tool. I also have a tiller and would tell you if you plan to get one, don't get the 0550, get the 1250 version. The 0550 is not a very sturdy unit, but the 1250 is the real deal.

I think your approach is good. Get the smaller one now. Will do a lot more than some people think a SCUT will do and mow grass very well. Then long-term, as someone else said, I'd be looking for an L or M/MX series.

I don't have the drive over deck with mine, but if I had the option, I would get it. When you're doing your loader/box blade work/grappling, etc, you'll want the box blade on for ballast, but you'll usually want the mower deck off for more ground clearance. I'm 50% or so on leaving it on or taking it off for work around my place, and while it only takes a few minutes to take the mower off and put it on, I'd spend the 500 now for the extra convenience if I had the option. The only real part this is irritating to me is sliding it sideways out from under my tractor and back under my tractor to put it back on. I do this on a concrete floor in my shop, so it's not terrible, but if I had the choice, I'd get the drive over.

Also, for more ballast and stability, I'd get the dealer to fill the rear wheels for you. Will help a lot for loader and grapple work. You'll get the most of out of your tractor and it lowers the center of gravity. I mow some steep hills sideways with mine. Stuff I would have never done on my lawn tractor.

 

[Michael Aos]

I just started playing with a Land Pride GS1548 (LPGS) yesterday, but my first impression is I wish I had more power to go faster.

I also ran out of traction several times.

I'm at 51hrs on the 2016 BX2370. I've frequently wondered if I would have been better off with a B2601 or B2650.

 

[manosteel00]

That's not a bad deal.

My grapple is my favorite attachment. Very useful tool. I also have a tiller and would tell you if you plan to get one, don't get the 0550, get the 1250 version. The 0550 is not a very sturdy unit, but the 1250 is the real deal.

I think your approach is good. Get the smaller one now. Will do a lot more than some people think a SCUT will do and mow grass very well. Then long-term, as someone else said, I'd be looking for an L or M/MX series.

I don't have the drive over deck with mine, but if I had the option, I would get it. When you're doing your loader/box blade work/grappling, etc, you'll want the box blade on for ballast, but you'll usually want the mower deck off for more ground clearance. I'm 50% or so on leaving it on or taking it off for work around my place, and while it only takes a few minutes to take the mower off and put it on, I'd spend the 500 now for the extra convenience if I had the option. The only real part this is irritating to me is sliding it sideways out from under my tractor and back under my tractor to put it back on. I do this on a concrete floor in my shop, so it's not terrible, but if I had the choice, I'd get the drive over.

Also, for more ballast and stability, I'd get the dealer to fill the rear wheels for you. Will help a lot for loader and grapple work. You'll get the most of out of your tractor and it lowers the center of gravity. I mow some steep hills sideways with mine. Stuff I would have never done on my lawn tractor.

Thanks guys. Appreciate the advice.

Trying to decide between tires. Since it will be used for mowing a lot I was thinking turf but if there isn't a huge difference with R4's, I'd rather go with them. Thoughts?