Disc Harrow Repair

   / Disc Harrow Repair #1  

Gem99ultra

Veteran Member
Joined
May 18, 2009
Messages
2,333
Location
Mid-Georgia
Tractor
Kubota L3400HST
I have an old disc harrow with a frozen up pilot bearing. This old harrow was built in the mid-1950's by The Independent Mfg. Co., Inc. in Neodesha, KS. They were in operation from 1954 until about 1957. I've only owned it for about 30 years, but have never used it. It did spend the first 20+ years sitting in the weeds out in a pasture. I'd like to restore it just for the sake of prosperity.

I can see no way to remove the 1.6+ inch nut on the end plate to get to the bearing. Socket wrenches won't go into the opening and there's not enough protrusion to get a pipe wrench on it. If you see a way for me to get into it, I'd appreciate the opinion. I'm quite sure that parts for it, i.e. bearings, are un-obtainable, but perhaps you have some suggestions? Pix's attached

The Independent Manufacturing Company, Inc. - Neodesha, KS.jpg.jpg

DSCN0449.JPG

DSCN0450.JPG

Disc Harrow SN 679277.jpg.jpg
 
   / Disc Harrow Repair #2  
First off, that nut should be on the inside of the blades, not on the outside. Is there another nut on the other end of the axle, I cant believe someone installed it backwards.

Perhaps you can grease up the "bearings" (most likely not really roller or ball bearings in that old disk) that may just be made of hardwood or babbit and a good soaking in oil and grease will free them up if you can get it to roll. Try plowing with it after greasing and see if it will start to roll.
 
   / Disc Harrow Repair #3  
Looks like it would be a whole lot easier to remove the two bolts holding the bearing/axle to the bracket, attaching to the frame. Both bearings, inboard, and outboard if necessary, then lift the frame up off the axle, and roll it out from underneath to work on it. Once the bolts are removed, it should come apart, maybe with some light taps with a brass hammer, or brass drift, hammer & wooden block. Bet it won't take much. Just don't hit it too hard.

Spray those nuts with some penetrate, and let them soak. I prefer a 50/50 mix of Acetone, and ATF, but what ever is handy. Once apart, you should be able to see what kind of bearing you have, clean/replace the grease zerks if needed, and clean the grease ports. Clean up inside in needed, and put back together.
 
   / Disc Harrow Repair #4  
First off, that nut should be on the inside of the blades, not on the outside. Is there another nut on the other end of the axle, I cant believe someone installed it backward.
^^^ This . .
If not..torch the end off buy new axles start over.
 
   / Disc Harrow Repair #5  
The only other idea I have would be to put rachet straps or rachet chain binders around the entire length of the disc .. see if they can be pulled together enough to expose the nut.. to be loosened and taken off..
GL with that project.
 
   / Disc Harrow Repair #6  
I have a Dearborne harrow which is even older than yours, and for parts I go to Agri-Supply. Disc Harrow Parts
They may need a little modification to fit but I'm not restoring it, just using it to disc my field.
 
   / Disc Harrow Repair
  • Thread Starter
#7  
The only other idea I have would be to put rachet straps or rachet chain binders around the entire length of the disc .. see if they can be pulled together enough to expose the nut.. to be loosened and taken off..
GL with that project.

Now THAT'S a good idea to try. I hadn't even thought about it in that way. I'll try that today; Thanks!

I have pulled the zerks and cleaned them. Several had to be replaced, which I've done. All zerks have taken grease except this one stubborn set, and all but this one turns freely. I can fell some drag on this one so I know it's dry. All bolts, nuts etc. have had a good drenching of PB Blaster. I even have tried shooting some into the zerk socket, but no much luck there. Removing the gang and putting the heat wrench on it may be my last resort, short of replacing it.

I'm hoping to salvage the original though. There's probably no real value in it other than for my own satisfaction. Thanks to all for the suggestions.
 
   / Disc Harrow Repair #8  
The only other idea I have would be to put rachet straps or rachet chain binders around the entire length of the disc .. see if they can be pulled together enough to expose the nut.. to be loosened and taken off..
GL with that project.

Disk shafts were designed to be operated with end shaft nut very tight. I seriously doubt a tightened ratchet strap will cause nut to extend out of bumper. Back in the 60'-70's I assembled disk shafts with disk/ brgs & spacers AND tightened the nuts utilizing cheater pipes on the wrenches to get the nuts VERY TIGHT.

I agree with DJ54 to remove both bolts on each disk gang hanger then separate each brg halve the remove rust/dirt from white iron brg parts then reassemble & apply more grease to the grease fitting. Then go to disking.

It would be very interesting to see a photo of the opposite end of this disk shaft to see how it is designed.
 
   / Disc Harrow Repair #9  
... Spray those nuts with some penetrate, and let them soak. I prefer a 50/50 mix of Acetone, and ATF, but what ever is handy. Once apart, you should be able to see what kind of bearing you have, clean/replace the grease zerks if needed, and clean the grease ports. Clean up inside in needed, and put back together.
I see that a lot on forums. I'm leaning toward that being an old wives tale. I could never get Acetone to mix with ATF. It would separate within seconds. And I've seen the same on YouTube. (So it's got to be gospel.) ;) Maybe my/our Acetone was old and absorbed water or my/our ATF was different than others but it just didn't mix.

I've had good luck with PB Blaster. Even keep a little in a small squeeze bottle so it's not wasted on small bolts or screws. It's hard to get just a dribble out of those spray cans.
 
   / Disc Harrow Repair
  • Thread Starter
#10  
Disk shafts were designed to be operated with end shaft nut very tight. I seriously doubt a tightened ratchet strap will cause nut to extend out of bumper. Back in the 60'-70's I assembled disk shafts with disk/ brgs & spacers AND tightened the nuts utilizing cheater pipes on the wrenches to get the nuts VERY TIGHT.

I agree with DJ54 to remove both bolts on each disk gang hanger then separate each brg halve the remove rust/dirt from white iron brg parts then reassemble & apply more grease to the grease fitting. Then go to disking.

It would be very interesting to see a photo of the opposite end of this disk shaft to see how it is designed.

Here's a picture of the end plate:
oops - internet is totally bogged down - I'll add the pix later.


And here's the (trunion?) housing:
oops - internet is totally bogged down - too many shoppers today I think.



After taking the entire gang off of the harrow and soaking it overnight with PB Blaser, I find there's a good bit of play. I'm wondering if I get it to take grease and tighten up the end nut, if it'll be okay. Otherwise it looks like I'll need to replace the entire assembly.

By the way - the Agri Supply looks like they'll have just about anything I'll need. Thanks for that tip jstpssng.
 
 
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