Do I need to add anything to road diesler for my 30 YO Yanmar?

[Scotty Dive]

I have been doing some reading and following posts... but there is so much opinion out there.....I realize that fuels have changed since my YM2020 was built and its now ultra low sulphur etc. But what I just really want an answer to is....


Do I need to add anything to the on road diesel fuel I am buying for my Yanmar?

 

[Car Doc]

I dont know the exact answer Scotty but I was told by people who do know always use an additive of some sort it wont hurt anything and there is a lube in them that ulsd is short on or new injector pumps and injectors are built for elifino?

Whether it helps or not who knows but I use Power Service gray bottle @ double strength in summer months it really quiets the rattle in the engine that much I do believe is a help and it is cheap.

I am guessing off road fuel is hard to get not that would matter just cheaper?

 

[clemsonfor]

No, but i would. The sulfer was the lubricity, so i read in deisel. And in my opinion these tractors were designed to run on the more "oily" deisel that was availible 30 years ago esp in other countries including 3rd world type place like the pacific islands. Im sure there fuel is way different that even deisel was here 10 years ago. Some say to just add "power service" which is all i do, and others say that has almost no lubricity in it. Some of the better stuff i have read was "??? something"(there is a privite report paid for by some like truck mag or something that highlights all the deisel addatives) and twc3 two stroke oil like for your boat. Its added 1 oz/gallon. I mean to do this just never have yet. The fuel i was getting in Offroad version was still low sulpher as of last year, this year and end of last i have used road fuel as i did not want to search for the off-road. The reason you want the water cooled is that it should completly combust and is a formula meant to burn unlike trans fluid some recomend that is not meant to combust in an engine. The water cooled formula will combust more completly and leave less soot as its meant to run in a water cooled boat at a lower temp than an air cooled weed eater. Thats why there are 2 types of 2 stroke oil, as there are diff operating temps.

 

[284 International]

I think it is smart to run some type of additive. I have seen several statements that seem to indicate fuel lubricity is low, including this one from Bosch:


"It is essential that the lubricity of the fuel as measured by the HFRR test specified in ISO 12156-1 meets the requirement of a wear scar diameter not greater than 460 microns. In addition, it is recommended by the Diesel FIE manufacturers, that å��irst fill of the fuel tank should be with fuel with good lubricity characteristics (HFRR < 400 μm) in order to guarantee good 途un-in of the injection system components. The US diesel specification (ASTM D 975-09) includes a lubricity value of 520 μm maximum (according to ASTM D 6079). It is expected that the useful operating lifetime of any mechanical component will be adversely affected by fuel with a lubricity exceeding 460 microns."

Lubricity of US spec ULSD (Diesel) causing HPFP failures

US spec diesel is apparently rated to be 520 or less, that is, above what Bosch recommends.

It seems that among the best choices are to run a very minimal (2%) amount of bio diesel. Other good choices seem to be two stroke oil as Clemson mentioned, or Opti-Lube. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=177728 I run two stroke oil because I have a surplus left over from my two cycle motorcycle days. I don know if it helps or not; I haven't had any ill effects. Bio diesel is not available here, so I don't use it. California has mentioned his bio diesel went rancid after awhile. I don't know if the 2% blend suffers that malady or not.

Some of the additives are so expensive that simply setting aside the price would buy a new injection pump on the off chance it ever wore out. Two stroke oil and bio diesel are cheap solutions, and actually more effective, it seems.

Car doc, have you seen cases of automobiles with injector pump failures that might be due to poor lubrication in the fuel?

 

[Pete Judd]

I can get high sulpher at the local farm store. About 60-70 cents a gallon less than road diesel. I also run it in the boat, even though the 1990 engine does not call for it. I won't run bio on the boat, because the alge will attack it and have to use Startron to keep it down. On the free heating oil I got last fall, I added 2 quarts of ATF to 120 gallons of it to keep the pump happy.

 

[Bigfoot62]

Do you HAVE TO ADD anything to ULS diesel? Technically, the answer is no.

My fuel supplier adds the Power Service to ALL of the diesel that he "bobtails" to small customers like me. In other words, unless it is delivered directly to the customer by the tractor/trailer load, it's got the P/S additive in it.
From time to time, I will also add Lucas fuel conditioner and upper cylinder lube to my bulk tank. 1 gallon treats 400 gallons of fuel. Is it necessary? Probably not. But, for $22 per gallon, it makes me feel better and it doesn't hurt anything.

 

[Marauderer]

All the posts are good in this thread. It is a personal thing.

I have owned diesels since 1982. I started running a fuel conditioner in 1985. I knew to many diesel technicians that told me it would really extend the life of the injection pump and injectors. The secret to understanding if you need an additive is whether or not you believe the what the government tells you. I do not believe them when they say the ULSD is just fine and will not shorten the life of the injectors or pump. To many independent authorities say other wise. Then there is the argument that the additive companies are just hawking their products. It is known that the extra lubricity won't hurt your engine. Most additives work on also taking water out of the system which is also bad for the pump and really bad for the injectors. I also run a cetane booster in my car and truck as both have had their tunes modified and run quite a bit stronger than stock. Cetane in diesel fuel is like octane is to gasoline.

 

[Neat 1500]

i mix 2 stroke in mine @ 300:1 which is also what i do with my Landcruiser. i have had a pump die due to lack of lubrication so i will remain using it in all my diesel vehicles and tractors.

 

[Car Doc]

Car doc, have you seen cases of automobiles with injector pump failures that might be due to poor lubrication in the fuel?

No I have not 284 at least any that comes to mind anyway. Reason being I dont work on any automotive diesels anymore but am sure any replacement pumps or injectors for older engines would be ulsd ready if there is such a thing? jmho.

 

[aczlan]

I put PowerService Grey or White (depending on the season) into the bulk tank to keep the algae down, help with lubricity, prevent gelling, etc.
Does it help much? I don't know, but it is cheaper (per 100 gallon tank of fuel) than new fuel filters for the 3 tractors that we fill from that tank.

Aaron Z