Double 2 x 12's or single 2 x 12 on gable wall ??

[GLyford]

Why would the horizontal board have to go under the 2x12? Why couldn't it go next to it, inset between the posts...or even on top. It would at least keep the 2x12 from bowing even if it wasn't right at the opening.

Also, nailer blocks could be above the opening, or you could use joist hangers. I'd be tempted to use deck screws to hold something like this together, but that might be just me. Here's something like what I am trying to describe (I drew this with a 2x6 so it would be flush with the posts):



But maybe someone else knows why this wouldn't work or have a better idea.

 

[TimboTractor]

Cool drawing. Didn't think of that. Need some long screws.

 

[HillStreet]

I'm not sure from the OP said in his first post what type of door, but if they are regular garage doors, there won't be any weight on the header of the door anyway - at least on on any of the ones that I have installed. If it's a sectional, then based on the height I'm guessing the track will be suspended from the bottom of the trusses.

Now if it is a roll-up door in a canister, that might be different, but the ones that I've seen installed here in our plant all install on the jambs of the doorway, not attaching to the header other than to just give the canister cover a little support.

If the above stated is true, there's really no need for a header as such, because it's not going to support either the roof or the door - all those loads will either be on the door jambs or trusses.

If there are indeed plans for the barn, sure, go with what they say, especially if inspection and codes have to be honored. If it's being built without plans, like in an unicorporated county area (like where I live), do whatever you think is best.

Good luck and take care.

Nonetheless, the pole barn has a 40 foot span and the door openings are 16 feet wide and 10 feet wide. Whether it's a load bearing wall or not, it's still a long wall. Plus, the doubled beam would aid in framing the gable end. Oh well, to each his own.

 

[roadhunter]

Go to the lumber yard and ask for LVL beams. Most pros use it as opposed to buying regular 2x material for headers. . There are structural grade 2x material but it is much more expensive.

 

[Will_C]

I put a 16' wide garage door in my pole barn, My plans called for 3 2x12 18' LVL beams to span the space.

Will

 

[TimboTractor]

I put a 16' wide garage door in my pole barn, My plans called for 3 2x12 18' LVL beams to span the space.

Will

Are your doors on the gable end or on the side of the building?

 

[rtimgray]

Nonetheless, the pole barn has a 40 foot span and the door openings are 16 feet wide and 10 feet wide. Whether it's a load bearing wall or not, it's still a long wall. Plus, the doubled beam would aid in framing the gable end. Oh well, to each his own.

Again, this is making the assumption that the walls are going to be sheeted with metal siding, but I'm assuming there will be girts running horizontally between the posts or other vertical framing members, probably every 2' to 4' vertically. After these are installed and the siding is put on, the door openings should be pretty well where they're going to be, without much movement in the future. Having a doubled up header over a doorway opening isn't going to help this situation to any degree.

Having said that, I encourage anybody to build things however they want to. Some folks will try to "overbuild", and there's nothing wrong with that, but just putting up either more lumber or larger lumber in the wrong location will only waste money, effort and resources. I'm sure some folks "underbuild" in an effort to save time and money, and I would bet for the most part, those structures work out just fine. In the end, it's like anything else - when it's your project, your money, and your time, it's your decision how to do it (discounting building codes/inspections, if required).

Good luck and take care.