Drywall install question

   / Drywall install question #11  
The simplest solution is to use Hardibacker by the Hardi Corporation. This is a fibre cement product that is pretty much perfectly flat and you can install it just like sheetrock except it is fireproof, waterproof, termite proof, rot proof, etc. In fact, over here, it is used almost interchangeably with durock except it is much smoother and does not crumble when nailed. It's even priced almost exactly the same as durock. Once you've installed it, you can either tile over it, or you can use cement based mesh tape and mud it and texture it much like sheetrock. Once painted, you'll never know the difference. Oh yeah, if you decide not to tile it and will be applying compound/texture instead, I highly recommend you use the "setting" type of joint compound instead of pre-mixed variety. The reason is that the setting compound will not deteriorate when wet whereas the pre-mixed type of compound will "re-constitute" back to wet compound when exposed to water. Good luck.
 
   / Drywall install question #12  
gsganzer said:
Tlbuser,
They just set my shower pan yesterday.

Where is the adventure in that? Did you get a price break down on the labor for the install? Just for this shower, the install charge was a tad over $1500.00, plumbing NOT included. This is the second one I've installed and was easier than the first. The first one was a 48 x 48 neo-angle.

The two pans were both also smaller than the framed dimensions and had to be shimmed in place. I used 1/4" durarock (hardibacker, cement board, etc.) between the studs and drywall to get the fit I wanted.

The wall sections are 3/8" thick and have to be trimmed to fit.

The tub deck is 3/4" thick and the missing front apron pieces are 3/8" also. Once I finish setting the tub faucets, the apron gets drywalled and marbled.
 
   / Drywall install question #13  
Michael_E_Tx said:
Tlbuser, just messing around. Thought you might like to have this perspective corrected shot for your project record.


Cool, thanks. They're yellowed from my worklights too, but I'm lucky to be able to get the size right to post, much less what some of you other guys can do.
 

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