Buying Advice Early '60's MF 35 Utility

   / Early '60's MF 35 Utility #41  
I assume that it's much like a powerful posi-traction car, too much skinny pedal and you're facing any which way but the way you should be.

Can working the brakes independently help getting un-stuck? (one wheel spins, slow down that wheel with the brake to make the other catch power?)


Pretty much, using the brakes independently is a little better, you can control the wheel speed from one side to another by how hard you push which ever brake pedal.
 
   / Early '60's MF 35 Utility
  • Thread Starter
#42  
Excellent! Going out to my parents' house today to try to get it running.
 
   / Early '60's MF 35 Utility
  • Thread Starter
#43  
Well, I got it running yesterday, used an external gas tank gravity fed off the hood until I can be sure the fuel lines are clean. I pulled the line off the carb, found a brake line that matched the thread and line size, connected it and got fuel to the carb. I hooked up the battery with new cables after I cleaned off all the contact points until they were shiny bare metal, there is no key switch anymore on my tractor (if there ever was?)- just a push button and push/pull "run" switch. That push/pull switch is shot, corroded and frozen in place. I pulled it, quick connected all three wires on the back of it together, and started testing for power. I now had power to the coil, still no crank though.

I pulled the push-button switch out, removed the wires, crimped on new terminals, wire brushed the contacts on the switch, reassembled. Tested with an ohm meter, tested good after that. Press the button, starter kicks in and motor cranks! We've got fuel and air now! Getting close!

I had to pull the cap/rotor out and sand the contacts in the cap, file the points as there was no spark. I pulled all four plugs out and tried to crank it after putting just a touch of oil down each cylinder. I let it crank a bit until the oil pressure gauge (which still works!) moved up to 10psi. Time to fire this thing off! I tested for spark, got it! We've got fuel, air, and spark!

I gave it a shot of ether, choked it, pressed the start button- it coughed and sputtered to life! I have to order a carb rebuild kit, as I have to play the choke a bit to keep her going, but it runs pretty decent otherwise at 1/4 throttle. No smoke, doesn't smell overly rich even for just firing up. Suffice to say that I'm very happy. Now I'll pull all the old wiring and do a proper job at that with sealed connectors and good wire. You can tell an old farmer did this wiring on the fly. I'll also wire the lights mounted to the loader frame to a relay and run heavier wire to them as it's quite thin. Eventually maybe put some LEDs in for more light with less power consumption.

Problem: On the front left side, where the motor meets the transmission there is a hole large enough for me to fit my pinky in, maybe a bit bigger. When the tractor is running, oil (frothy, water mixed oil) comes out that hole. Is there supposed to be a plug there? Surely it's not supposed to puke oil- that scares me, as that's where I imagine the clutch is- looks like this is in the bellhousing. Did one of the internal seals fail and allow all that oil to get in there? If so, why did it not leak out the very bottom between the mating surfaces?

That being said, I'm planning on draining the engine oil, replace that, drain the transmission completely, put some diesel in it, run it back and forth a bit to flush it out, then drain overnight and refill. Definitely has water in it.
 
   / Early '60's MF 35 Utility #44  
That hole I believe is supposed to be a leak hole so the clutch plate does not get wet when one of the seals fail. A little oil is okay but a gusher no. If its forthy oil i'm guessing trans fluid that got water in it by the rubber boots on top of the shifter controls.Sos i'm guessing you have a trans seal leak. o
 
   / Early '60's MF 35 Utility #45  
I couldn't figure out where the hole is....is it in the engine, trans, or the clutch enclosure...?? BobG in VA
 
   / Early '60's MF 35 Utility
  • Thread Starter
#46  
That hole I believe is supposed to be a leak hole so the clutch plate does not get wet when one of the seals fail. A little oil is okay but a gusher no. If its forthy oil i'm guessing trans fluid that got water in it by the rubber boots on top of the shifter controls.Sos i'm guessing you have a trans seal leak. o

I've been searching, that's the exact info I just found a minute ago on Yesterday's Tractors. Looks like I'm going to have to split this thing, it's a good bit of oil that's come out. That could just be years of slow seepage, I guess time will tell. I'll get it running alright and see if the seepage subsides. I can deal with a little, but if it keeps at the pace it's going then I'll have to split it and replace. Really not looking forward to that! (mainly because I've got to take the loader assembly off!) Thanks for the tip.
 
   / Early '60's MF 35 Utility #47  
Make sure you change those boots on top so you don't get anymore water in it and change your fluid too.
 
   / Early '60's MF 35 Utility
  • Thread Starter
#48  
I couldn't figure out where the hole is....is it in the engine, trans, or the clutch enclosure...?? BobG in VA

Hi Bob,

If I remember correctly, you get down on one knee with your back to the front wheel. Look just below the clutch pedal area on the mating flange of the engine/transmission. It's about 1/4 to 1/2 way up on the outer edge. It appears to me that it would go in toward the clutch assembly.

Make sure you change those boots on top so you don't get anymore water in it and change your fluid too.

Yep, they're on my list. As of now they're covered with a large garbage bag, and the whole seating area is under a well secured tarp. The tractor spent the last 5+ years under a car-port.
 
   / Early '60's MF 35 Utility #49  
Sounds like you're well on your way. I've taken those old carbs completely apart before and cleaned everything, readjusted and they've ran fine. A rebuild kit could be in order though?
Also had a 3pt that would not move on a F851 and drained hydraulic oil. Then put Deisel , bottle of alcohol , & qrt of transmission fluid in. Ran for 15 min working lift then sat over night. Next day started ran for about 10 min working lift lever and it started working. Drained, new fluid and has been working 2 yrs. It was originally milky too. Check to make sure boots are good on top of shifter and store tractor under cover if possible.
 
   / Early '60's MF 35 Utility
  • Thread Starter
#50  
Sounds like you're well on your way. I've taken those old carbs completely apart before and cleaned everything, readjusted and they've ran fine. A rebuild kit could be in order though?
Also had a 3pt that would not move on a F851 and drained hydraulic oil. Then put Deisel , bottle of alcohol , & qrt of transmission fluid in. Ran for 15 min working lift then sat over night. Next day started ran for about 10 min working lift lever and it started working. Drained, new fluid and has been working 2 yrs. It was originally milky too. Check to make sure boots are good on top of shifter and store tractor under cover if possible.

I'm certainly trying. I was really hoping not to have to split this thing, but if it comes down to that I'll do it. I'll pull the carb apart first and give it a good cleaning, it's very simple anyway on these. I'll keep that in mind for the hydraulics, I'm sure there's all sorts of nasty sediment in the bottom of this thing. Hoping to get all of that drained and fixed/refilled before we get into freezing weather!

Tractor is under a tarp now, well secured, and the shifters are covered with their own bag that's tied in place just in case the tarp does come off. Just have to find the P/N for the HI/LO/Shuttle shifter, as it's two shifters into one hole.
 

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