Educate me on plows please

   / Educate me on plows please #31  
Farmwithjunk post sure changed my mind , as I was already to give a flail mower a try . I have a new rotary cutter on order from Everything Attachments .


I was able to pick up an old 3 bottom ford trip plow for $300 here in potato country .
Nice!:thumbsup: That's what I paid for my single bottom 101, and I had to go all of the way to Buxton for it. I would expect to pay AT LEAST $800 for a 3 bottom in decent shape.

What drove me nuts though when I wanted a plow was driving from Ashland to Presque Isle; there are two single bottom plows being used for mailbox posts. :laughing:
 
   / Educate me on plows please #32  
Never saw a Disc Plow before 7 yrs ago, or if I did i didnt pay it attention.
After seeing how well it did on new ground with a lot of debris I had to get me one. Within our little group we probably have 5 or 6 now.

Down here in Alabama a Dearborn 2 disc will run about $350-450. I have seen some 3's and they were about $550.

Monroe Tufline manufactures new Disc Plows in Columbus, Mississippi.

TDP2 Series 2 & 3 Blade Disc Plows | Tufline
 
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   / Educate me on plows please #33  
I would love to have a nice 1 bottom plow for the 2650 as it would take longer to do a job I really like doing . The 3 bottom I bought like 15 years ago was in very good cond. except for the points which I did replace with new ones .
 
   / Educate me on plows please #34  
Monroe Tufline manufactures new Disc Plows in Columbus, Mississippi.

TDP2 Series 2 & 3 Blade Disc Plows | Tufline


They look mighty rugged . I had a small field that had what I call snake berry bushes so thick you could hardly walk through them , about 3 ft tall and a root system that doesn't quit . I first cut them down with a bush hog and tried using a disc harrow with no luck as it wasn't heavy enough to cut the root system . I tried the 3 bottom plow and that was a mess , it did work but what a mess to clean up so I quit that also . That disc plow would have worked great for sure . I don't use that field so I just mow it with the bush hog every year and it keeps them under control .
 
   / Educate me on plows please #36  
Open the Turf Pride LINK in Post #8.

Disc Plows are made for land too tough or almost too tough for Moldboard Plows.
 
   / Educate me on plows please #37  
Open the Turf Pride LINK in Post #8.

Disc Plows are made for land too tough or almost too tough for Moldboard Plows.

Very interesting Jeff
 
   / Educate me on plows please #38  
What is your soil like? is it heavy clay, sandy loam, etc. The heavier the soil the more power to pull. For more than 50 years I have tried almost every type of tillage implement one can imagine. Both farming for a living and maintaining a family garden. Most farmers in this region (central Virginia) no longer plow with moldboard plows due to cost and erosion risks. I do see them using subsoilers to break up the soil deeply and eliminate compaction. We have a heavy red clay soil on our farm and when farming with a three crop rotation (corn, small grain, hay) the land would be plowed every three years after the last hay crop was harvested in the fall. Since a lot of organic matter was being added we always would try to plow sufficiently deep to bring up about an inch of sub soil to mix with the sod. Over time this led to the topsoil depth increasing. The land was strip farmed to minimize erosion. A disc plow would not work well on our land. I have found that subsoiling the land and then running a 7 shank tiller/cultivator will leave the land in good condition for our winter freeze thaw cycles and allow a lot of moisture to go deep into the soil. And in the spring I may only have to use a rototiller to leave the seedbed ready for planting. Some times I will use a moldboard plow in the fall on our garden after subsoiling, other times the 7 shank tiller. Both work well. If there is repeated use of a mold board plow at the same depth, then it is very easy to develop a compaction layer that limits plant growth. Hence the value of subsoiling. Subsoiling WILL]bring up a lot of rocks and it is easy to hang ups on roots if the ground has not been previously worked. You have a lot of options that have been mentioned, but your specific soil conditions are the best determining factor for which implements to use. W. Jones
 
 

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