electric in my barn.....need help

   / electric in my barn.....need help
  • Thread Starter
#51  
I actually just made a little video of mine, here it is:

The 8500 comes with battery backup, all you have to do is purchase and install a compatible battery. One thing I was misled about before purchase, was that this door would be hard to open manually if the power went out. It is NOT difficult. It has an emergency disconnect just like any other door operator which disengages the operator from the door, hence, anyone who can open the door before the operator is installed, can open it after.

The internet gateway turned out to be pretty cool. It doesn't physically connect to anything except power (wall wart) and ethernet to your network. It only needs to be within radio range of any operators you want to control. Setup was simple and straightforward, and it doesn't matter if you use the Chamberlain or Liftmaster apps or hardware, they are totally interchangeable. I bought the Chamberlain gateway, registered it on the MyChamberlan website, and use it with the Liftmaster app on my phone...works fine.

The price worked out to about the same as it would have been if I got a comparable hp conventional operator and the extension kit to make it work on a 10' door.
Great video, thanks I am sold!!
 
   / electric in my barn.....need help
  • Thread Starter
#52  
Electric is done and it came out great! I have not mounted garage-door-openers yet. Here are a couple of pics. Outside dusk to dawn LED, a 20/30/50 amp Rv plug, gfci outlets on all sides on the outside and a flood in the open Bay area. I will get more pics of the setup inside and post them up. Thank you all for the comments and suggestions....

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   / electric in my barn.....need help #53  
Two things I see, that wouldn't pass inspection "here", and maybe it's just a here thing, are we are required to have a disconnect where power enters the building, and if the underground incoming is in conduit, there has to be a slip joint in the vertical conduit to allow for settlement. Glad to see it is all in conduit and not romex buried inside the walls. I assume all are 120 v outlets are ground fault protected. Looks like a great set up.
 
   / electric in my barn.....need help
  • Thread Starter
#54  
Two things I see, that wouldn't pass inspection "here", and maybe it's just a here thing, are we are required to have a disconnect where power enters the building, and if the underground incoming is in conduit, there has to be a slip joint in the vertical conduit to allow for settlement. Glad to see it is all in conduit and not romex buried inside the walls. I assume all are 120 v outlets are ground fault protected. Looks like a great set up.

Thanks. Yes all GFCI are protected. All conduit, very clean install.....
 
   / electric in my barn.....need help #55  
... Glad to see it is all in conduit and not romex buried inside the walls. I assume all are 120 v outlets are ground fault protected. Looks like a great set up.

What is wrong with having romex inside the walls?

Why would you want GFCI outlets in a workshop?
 
   / electric in my barn.....need help #58  
Is that Styrofoam sheet for insulation?
 
   / electric in my barn.....need help
  • Thread Starter
#59  
Is that Styrofoam sheet for insulation?
Not sure what it is they used.....not Styrofoam but something similar. Looks like it is made for a specific application in this climate maybe.
 
   / electric in my barn.....need help #60  
What is wrong with having romex inside the walls?

Why would you want GFCI outlets in a workshop?

Mice love romex, and covered up you can't see the problem. A house is usually more mouse proof, and if there is a mouse problem, you are more motivated to fix it, so not as big an issue. I have found it difficult to mouse proof an overhead door. Conduit makes it easier to add on or make changes in the future. This may be a 'here" thing too, but if it has a vehicle door in it, the outlets have to be ground fault.I expect it is due to vehicles tracking in snow or rain water making it a potential wet location. That was code "here" all the way back in 2002 when I built my shop, as is the disconnect on incoming power, even if another disconnect is in view. I learned of both of those on initial inspection. I had to add the disconnect but had only one outlet installed at the time so that was easy to fix and then I knew how to proceed.

Got my curiosity up and had to Google code on GFCIs in garages. It's been NEC code since at least 2008, maybe since 1978. Exceptions for dedicated appliances such as freezers.
 
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