Engine Ice Coolant...Anyone???

[gsxr1100]

Anyone ever use this stuff? I know some people who have and they love it. It has lots of benefits despite the high initial cost.

Trying to find if anyone here has...

http://www.engineice.cc/

 

[Dargo]

I haven't used that, but I have Red Line's "Water Wetter" in my hot rod. Unfortunately, I can't tell any difference. I have so many cubic inches and ponies under the hood, that with my refusal to make any structural modifications, I'm really having a hard time keeping my beast cool; especially with A/C on during a 100 degree day like today. I have a custom built radiator that is as thick and gives me as many cubic inches of surface area as possible, a custom made shroud, and special built electric fans that pull the equivilant air flow of a 9 ton home A/C unit through the radiator. Still, I'm marginal at best on a really hot day and stuck in traffic.

If anyone has used this and it works, I'd really like to know. The Water Wetter has an interesting chemical design and helps some, but not enough. I'm not going to violate the original structural integrity of my car to make changes, so I'm at the mercy of modern chemistry for a better cooling system.

Just in case you don't know, adding anti-freeze (ethylene glycol) to water in the recommended 50/50 mixture actually reduces the cooling capacity of plain water by nearly 22%. The issue, of course, is to make sure that you don't forget to either drain it, or add anti-freeze in cold weather. Boiling isn't a problem if the correct pressure is maintained within the cooling system. Water Wetter and RO/DI water is the best cooling mixture I've found to date. Let me know if anything works better.

 

[JerryG]

Sounds kind of like Redline Water Wetter which has been around for a long time.

Looks like I was a little slow typing. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

 

[gsxr1100]

The only problem I see with Redline is no freeze protection...bad for me up here in Mass.

 

[gsxr1100]

I few guys in my GSXR forum use it and it dropped temps almost 10 degrees. If it does that and performs like EG but really a PG coolant it looks nice.

 

[milkman]

Dargo, the site is down for 24 hrs, but check it out and technically it looks good to cool in high heat situations since it doesn't boil away from the metal water passages like water does, until it reaches like 375 degrees and I don't think you'll run that hot.

http://www.evanscooling.com/

 

[gsxr1100]

Evan cooling read here.
http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=99933

I found the price of Engine Ice, $38.95 per gallon...Going in the GSXR1100 ASAP!!!

PLus it is COOL blue!
/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[cp1969]

A fundamental flaw in gauging engine temp by measuring coolant temp is exposed here.

Consider the hpothetical case of a water-cooled engine whose coolant has been replaced by an insulating liquid. The 'coolant' temp will be reduced markedly, but the actual engine temp is soaring.

If the coolant temp went down, does that not mean that LESS heat, not more, has been transferred to it, as in the extreme case illustrated above?

I can understand that maybe something can be added to water to increase it's heat carrying capacity, but how would a coolant temp gage be able to detect this? The thermostat's job is to maintain a given temp, say 190 deg, by keeping the coolant in the block until that temperature has been reached. It knows nothing of the efficiency of heat transfer between the hot metal of the block and the coolant...it just wants the coolant to reach 190 before it releases the coolant to go to the radiator.

If these things enhance heat transfer, I can see how the radiator would run cooler, but not the engine itself. Unless you measure coolant temp in the radiator itself, I would think you'd see no difference.

 

[gsxr1100]

I agree but based on my learning’s from school and work, your “q prime” (flux) and g (heat rate) are different since the material properties of k are different along with film coef. Even just changing k will make the complete equ come out better or worse.

So my take is the heat in the motor is still going up to XXX temp but it is cooling at a faster rate due to materials in the fluid. Hence the engine will run cooler in the end and it will not have to “work” as hard to cool the fluid return to rad. Then at the rad, convection properties take over.

 

[grdngrrl]

The quantity of heat transferred from point a to point b is a function described as Q = u A delta T. Where Q (measured in BTU's is the amount of heat transfer. u is the heat transfer coefficient (a function of the coolant mediums ability to pick up and conduct heat). A is the surface area of heat source exposed to the cooling medium. Delta T is the difference in temp between the heat source and the cooling medium. This is the basic thermodynamic formula. We can change some of those factors such as increasing the area (larger radiator in a liquid cooling system or larger fins on an air cooled one. We can also alter the u by making the cooling medium more efficient...enter the products mentioned in previous post. Incidentally, in pressurized water nuclear reactors the most efficient heat transfer occurs when there is nucleate boiling occuring in the coolant (pure water). Not boiling or bulk boiling are not as efficient at transferring heat from A to B. The OLD tractors such as my ancient Silver King with a 4 cyl Hercules engine with NO water pump relied on natuiral convection water flow. These engines under load would have boiling occur in the water jacket around the cylinders and when boiling just began the temp would hold steady instead of continuing to climb.